20 Most Recent Polaroid TLA-04011C 40 in. LCD TV - Page 3 Questions & Answers

There are two ways.Some models allow you to change the picture "format" through the main menu. You'll go to the menu, find the picture settings and one of them will be "mode" or "typo" or something like that which will have options like "Normal", "Full", "Cinema", "Auto" etc; some call it "zoom" since the picture is always made to fit into certain ratio, which is done by zooming it.Some models, however, do not have that ability in the main menu. I guess poor chinese manufacturers were so poor they could never afford to add the few extra bytes of code it takes to make it possible. Either that or the greedy capitalists (including the poor chinese manufacturers, which are a whole lot more capitalists than their western clients) did it on purpose so that one needs to buy original remote for something as simple.Anyway, if it's not accessible through the main menu then there is a special button on the remote - again called "zoom" or "pic mode" - which does just what you need.Finally, if you wantch HD channels that problem should not be present.Hope this helps...if it does, please leave a review for us on Google!www.coppelltvrepair.com

do you mean the scree is flickering, check for a loose or dry joint connector at the inverter board of back light.

power supply board caps or hv section of board.

No. It hasn't such switch.

check for dry joint connector at inverter board or dead screen back light. if just a white screen you may have bad t-con board.

Problem is not clear enough to offer a solution.

Check the picture settings. Check the aspect ratio. Check the selected resolutions.

Either a bad connection, issue with a digital board or worst is the display panel for the set--A shop needs open and examine. You could call the maker and see if a known issue in your set--bet they tell you take it to the service center-----not a do it yourself repair for most people.Only boards are sold and not individual parts for all these sets.

The 23" CRT set may have a high voltage breakdown in the flyback transformer or focus divider. Take the back off and operate the set in a dark room. Look for anything that has a blue glow around it or sparks flying when the pop occurs. I won't guarantee this will find your problem, but it is definitive if you see these!

I once had a set with these symptoms. I stopped the blue glow and arcing by covering the focus divider with epoxy. It worked for a couple of months before the divider literally broke apart.

Have someone who is familiar with electronics open it up and inspect the power supply board for bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors. If found, replace them.

There's only one way to get that TV to switch from 480i (which is an SD or Standard Definition signal) - that's to provide it with an ED or HD resolution signal (a 480P signal is often called ED or Enhanced Definition while 720P, 1080i and 1080P signals are called HD or High Definition).



The old standard yellow composite video cable.
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You will not get ED or HD signals through the old composite RCA phono jacks (usually yellow in color), either. You'll need to use an RGB (red, green and blue) component video cable, HDMI cable, DVI, or other type supported by both your TV and the video source (CATV box, Blu Ray disc player, Satellite converter, etc.). More on this, later.

RGB cable.


An HDMI cable - this provides Digital audio signals, too.
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A DVI cable.
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First, you'll need a source capable of sending ED or HD signals. This can be a progressive scan DVD, Blu Ray player, HD Cable or Satellite converter, or a simple TV antenna. Not all DVD players are capable of the 480P progressive scan output - it must be labeled as such. The DVD movies are not labeled progressive scan as they all will play back at 480P if played in a DVD player capable of progressive scan, otherwise they play at 480i. A stand alone Blu Ray player or one in the Sony PlayStation 3, the older HD-DVD in the Xbox360, (it is important to note that the Nintendo Wii can output either 480i or 480P signals only when connected with their special component video cable), "set top boxes provided when you choose HD service from your local cable provider or satellite TV provider are the main sources for signals better than 480i. As mentioned above, the old standard yellow video jack is not capable of supporting signals better than 480i. You must use the HD jacks and cables between to get these signals into your TV.

The Wii 480P cable assembly - includes stereo audio, too.


Lastly, if your TV has an ATSC tuner (it is not uncommon for it to have an NTSC tuner and CATV tuners as well), you can input a UHF antenna directly into the the antenna terminals on the TV. Broadcasters in most areas have been moved into UHF bands - but some areas have one or two that operate in the VHF bands still. Check antenna web for information and help selecting antennas and broadcasters in your area. The nice thing about the antenna method is that no other cables, converter boxes, etc are needed to enjoy HD signals - plus - they're free!

Just remember you need a source capable of ED or HD signals and a way to get those signals to your TV. The yellow composite cable is from days ago and only passes 480i signals.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please take a moment to rate my reply - thanks!

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It may be fault in the video section or even the panel itself. Neither is an inexpensive fix. You might check to see if it happens when you are using the set as a computer monitor. If it does recur, the issue is not a cost effective repair. If it does not recur when used as a monitor, the issue is related to the video processing section of the A&D board in most cases. The only thing to try initially is to open the middle back cover and expose the power board and the A&D board, and blow out any dust with something like a can of compressed air held at a distance until you can gauge at what distance you can just dislodge the dust without deforming anything. Just make sure the set is unplugged and you have contact on a conductive portion of the can and the metal frame of the TV at the same time to reduce static discharge issues. It does not eliminate the ESD issues so you do that at your own risk if you can see dust accumulation inside on the board. Though unlikely, I have seen dust accumulations on circuitry leading to erratic operation in other areas.

If the set has several thousands of hours, the CCFL tubes are about due for replacement. Before you commit to that expense though, check the condition of the capacitors on the inverter board(s). If they are showing any signs of stress failure, replace them and try that for awhile. If they begin to fail within a year again, the tubes should be replaced with capacitors. You want to use high Ripple Current types, not general purpose types.

Check for 24 volts on the main power supply board at the paired multipin connectors. Black and Red wires. You only need to take one measurement as they all tie to the same track underneath. If you have 24 volts there, look at the inverter board. Check the 8 amp fuses near where the multiwire connector attaches to the inverter board. If they check okay, check the electrolytic capacitors. If they show any singof bulging, replace them with electrolytics capable of handling high ripple current. The ones from Radio Shack are a gamble only because of the way they source their parts- in general purpose applications, those are okay; inverters are not general purpose. If you do not have 24 volts, check the capacitors for bulging. Flip the board over and look for potentially faulty solder joints- many will look questionable- reflow them and add just a little solder for heat transfer.If the caps on the inverter failed and the set has several thousands of hours, you might consdier changing the CCFL lamps as well.

Check Power Supply board first, and inverter board(s) second. If you see no bulging capacitors or significantly scorched areas on the board, take a look at the condition of the solder joints on the bottom of the board closely. It does not hurt to reflow those that look rough textured adding a little solder as an aid to heat tansfer. Also check the transformer's winding to header connections as well. The MSOFET's used are quite robust and one will partially test in circuit, and the easier to reach unit needs to be removed in order to test it.On the inverter board, check the fuses, about the sized of a puffed rice kernal and close in color too.Marked 8A, and check their solder joints. Also inspect capacitors for bulging. if one shows signs of failing- replace them all.

ShopJimmy likely has the power supply board with the best price, otherwise discount-merchant.com.However I have one the I am currently looking at where the power supply board was the original issue, and after going over it throughly, the real problem was numerous bad solder joints from the factory. The silver solder is deceptive at times because a joint may look good or passable, but is actually faulty. More often what is seen is called " cold solder joints" where the solder crystalized upon cooling.Unless the transformer is actually visibly scorched, the transformer may just be suffering from bad solder joints on the PC board, or even on the wires where they attach on the header leads. (This by the way was the main problem on early Macintosh computers having a bad solder joint where the winding attached to the header lead, so this is nothing new) It does lead to an ugly repair in some cases, but once corrected, it is no longer something to worry about.If there happens to be a drilled circuit trace- that is probably a factory revision. Try it "as-is" and see if it comes to life.

You will need new LCD panel that will cost more than the TV is worth (in hudreds of dollars), you can try conracting www.shopjimmy.com if you really want to replace the screen yourself.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide

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