20 Most Recent Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment IDR-2-RG24 Stainless Steel Range Questions & Answers

Bad ignitor

Old jets are in need of cleaning or replacing because they are not allowing the fuel to be burned completely! If their orifices are too large, too much gas comes through and there is not enough air to use the gas completely.

Hello,
Ranges come set from the factory for natural gas. To convert it to propane, you should call your propane co and have a qualified serviceman do the work. You can void the warranty if you try to do it yourself and break something or don't convert it correctly. On an expensive range like this, you'll be better off having a professional do it right and keep that warranty intact. It could take 1 1/2 to 2 hours to complete the job. You may need to purchase an LP conversion kit if some of the orifices have to be exchanged, like on a unit with sealed stovetop burners. Write down the make, model # and serial # for reference when you make an appt to have it done. Hope that helps.

its not hard to replace the thermocouples you need screw driver small shifter long nose pliers and

yes you will have to change to burners, orfices and regulator. it is easy

Hello. I can assist you. The continual turning off does not damage the thermostat but, depending on age, it may be time to replace the thermostat. In the meantime, you could do a little experiment by increasing the temperature in ssay 25 degree increments when you do load the oven up as that sheer amount of food will consume a great deal of heat. the problem you are experiencing is one of the main reasons why modern ovens often have special fans to circulate the hot air, called convection ovens. Happy Holidays and Regards, Joe
p.s. please rate my answer. thanks.

the model no is in the door in bottom portion or at the back of the oven.

A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

if thermostat is broken try fixing that

We have no means to look that information up for you.

There are basically two types of ranges to deal with:



those with sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today, and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones.
While they operate in much the same way, their conversion is usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must be individually replaced to convert each burner from one fuel to another.

(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed a threaded portion).
Either way, basically what you're doing when going from natural gas to LP is changing to a smaller orifice to allow for the higher pressure supplied by the 'bottled' gas (The available energy in each ft of gas is different too, but for our purpose here that's not important). Natural gas supplies typically run around a pressure of 5.5 inches water column, while LP runs at twice that pressure, averaging around 11 inches.

The orifice through which the gas travels to the burner must be smaller to accommodate this difference.
Adjustable orifices are simply 'snugged' down, clockwise, with a 1/2 inch open-end wrench, to convert them. Nearly all oven burners use these too - more about that in a minute.
Fixed orifices are replaced, and the good news is: the LP parts are usually included with the new range. On some brands (GE being one), the unused set is attached to a storage point on the stove, and this is a great idea. This way, they can't get lost, and if you ever want to convert back, there they are!
The not-so-good news: these little top burner orifices very often require a metric wrench to remove & install. And some can't be changed without a very slender wrench or nut driver. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c