20 Most Recent Bosch Nexxt 500 Plus Dryer Questions & Answers

Hello travistracey,

The error code E04 for bosch nexxt machines indicates a problem occurred during the drain/pump out. Typically what this really means is an obstruction/debris inside the drain pump, specifically the button trap/lint filter insert.

You haven`t mentioned whether you`ve checked the pump or not, so I`ll assume you didn`t. This is how...

**Unplug the washer from the wall or turn off the breaker before attempting any repairs**


Bosch E04 Solution:

1. Get some towels and if possible a wet/dry vac. If the machine drained, it won't be too bad. If your machine is stuck full of water, I can't say, I'd guess you could get wet. ( unless you`re lucky enough to be close to a floor drain )
2. Locate the round door on the front of the machine (about 6" in diameter, lower right corner)
3. Find a drill bit or small screwdriver that fits in the hole in the round door.
4. Insert the bit into the hole in the door. It will push in a tab, it doesn't take much force. Rotate the hole (clockwise) to 6'oclock and it should come free. (the edges are very sharp so be careful or wear chain-mail gloves).
5. Once the door is out of the way you'll be greeted by a 3-4" plastic cap with wings so you can unscrew it by hand. There is a small collector lip at the bottom of the cap, that is where you can hold the wet/dry vac to catch the water. Unscrew slowly so you don't get flooded, until it is unscrewed all the way out.
6. Now pull out the trap and visually inspect the inside of the pump as well as the filter/trap. Hopefully you'll find the item/debris that initiated the E04 error code.
7. After removing any debris or obstruction`s re-install the button trap/lint filter and plug the washer in to power or reset the breaker and give it a test.
8. Run a load and watch for leaks. Leave the pump access door off until you are sure you screwed the cap in tight and there are no leaks.

The error code should be gone when you restart a cycle however, if the error return`s you`ll need to check further for blockages in the drain hose, or the bellows from the tub to the pump.

Hope this help`s. Thank you for visiting "fixya", please take a moment to rate the solution provided here.

Let me know if you require further assistance. Good luck.

macmarkus :)

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire. GOD IS GOOD !!!!

these bulbs do burn out. is it the bulb?

check your breaker it will still run but not heat if tripped

I see I am not the only owner who wants to this off!

Can supply the Model number, should be on a plate inside or on the door frame and I may be able to help (it is the letters and numbers after ENr.....)

Check you heating element and thermal fuses for continuity

Click HERE to get the Users Manual for your machine, from what I can see, it's in the selection option of the machine.
From the manual:
Select the option to be changed with the "Menu" button. Press the button to move to the next option on the display. The active symbol starts flashing.
The current active option setting is displayed on the right. These settings can now be changed with the "Select" button. Press the button to jump to the next possible setting. Pressing the "Menu" button again saves the setting. If you don't press any buttons for 10 seconds the settings are saved automatically.
Hope this answers your question. Please rate and comment. Thank You
Joe

My wife has a Bosch Premium dryer that had drying problems. The lint filter would get cleaned but the machine still did not operate correctly, as you explained above. Her machine was made in 2005 and the lint screen, the plastic slotted unit in front of the lint filter was the problem. It gets clogged up with hair/lint that never makes it to the filter. I tried a shop vac to vacuum it but the problem was still there. Get a pistol cleaning kit for a 22 cal gun. Pull the lint filter out & then take the pistol rod and insert it from the drum side into each slot and pull out the tons of lint. Pull the lint off the rod when done and take a flame to burn the rest off as the rod is a brass brush with small wires on it.

could be a fuse on the main board. open the dryer and look for one either in line to the main boasts our on the main board itself

Sounds as though the sensor is dirty of faulty. I would recommend having a service tech out to check and replace. Also if the sensor is going bad, it may be tripping it due to the excessive heat.

Sounds like the belt is broken or off of track.

Hi wtar...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Hi,If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...heatman101

Hi sanandres101...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.

If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me