20 Most Recent Grohe Model 28 206 OOO: Ladylux Plus Deluxe Champagne shower head - Chrome Questions & Answers

I am having the same problem. The outer hex head is not defined enough to get a grip on it (tried with needle nose pliers and was not able to turn it) and the interior allan mold has been rounded off making the allan wrench useless. How do I get this screw out so I can proceed with replacing the cartridge?

These are the best quality valves you can buy and if its become stiff its likely to have an abnormal problem. The valve internals may be fine, if the lever and stem on the outside are simply limescaled up. If it does still move stiffly, spay WD 40 on all the rotating seams/levers you can, then move it both ways until it frees up. Then pour on Toilet descaler and leave for about an hour and repeat the WD40 trick to flush out any limescale, finally wash all cleaning product off it by spraying it with water.

I have the Ladylux plus. I was confused on how to remove this as well. There is a quick release plastic piece, just pull down on the yellow part on the connector under the sink. Disconnect the plastic connector from the hose and pull it right out of the faucet. Very easy to remove in this case.

I believe there is a cartrige that has some washers in the unit. There may be some debris caught in there since it was a little loose. I would turn the water off and disassymble the unit and replace any obvious washers and clean everthing up. Replace it all and try it again. If it still leaks, contact Grohe for more trouble shooting. Faucets have fantastic warranties and companies usually will send replacement parts free of charge at times. Hope this helps.

Is there a little emblem or similar in center of handle that pops out to expose a screw or allen key style screw? Also check around base of handle,(almost standing on your head) for a n allen screw head as well, or any area that looks like it might pop out .

If it is just replacing the handle you will only need a smaller screwdriver set (pretty common) and an allen wrench. I don't know exactly what size you need but you can get a set of these wrenches pretty cheap at any tool or hardware store. Basically the tool is a hexagonal rod that is bent in the shape of an "L". You'll need the smaller set for this job sold usually in sets that have a range of sizes from .05" to 3/8" diameter. I would guess your hex nut is 1/8" or less.

On the bottom of the handle between the sink bed and the handle you'll be able to feel a small hole. When you stick the allen wrench in there it should fit snuggly if the allen wrench wiggles a lot go to the next size up. Since the screw is facing up you will pull the other end of the wrench toward you. This will loosen the screw. It will not take a lot of effort so if you have to force it make sure the allen wrench is actually seated. Kind of a pain but you'll have to reposition the wrench as you get it loosened to fully extract the screw.

Once the screw is out the handle will drop down and the cap just pulls off. Assembly is reverse but make sure that your screw is going into the threads without resistance before tightening. This will prevent cross threading.

Go to Ferguson Plumbing supply.

Hi,
many times the handles will corrode on tightly....
A sharp rap from a rubber mallet will sometimes work, but most of the time you will ruin the faucet when getting the handle off...

heatman101

May I get the model # to help.

You'll have to go under the sink and look up were the faucet comes through. You'll see it's held in place by a large nut. This nut needs to be tightened. Unfortunately working in the tight space under the sink is a pain in the ****, just be patient and you should be able to tighten it. TIP: Have someone hold the faucet on top in the position you want it.

Hello BD Barrington! I would strongly suggest that you NOT attempt to take the shower head apart, as these have several little parts inside them and if you get just one out of place, the whole thing becomes a jigsaw puzzle that will frustrate even the most patient person (been there myself!).

But the good news is that in order to clean it and get any hard water deposits, buildup, gunk, etc. out of it, you only need to soak the whole shower head to get it clean and working like new again.

First I'd recommend getting some CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust) cleaner, available at most hardware, Home Improvement, Grocery stores, Target, K-Mart, etc. If that isn't available, you can soak it white vinegar.

Get a small plastic container, just slightly larger around than the shower head, and deep enough to completely cover the shower head with liquid.

Put the shower head in the container and fill with the CLR Cleaner and let it sit for about 5 minutes to fully dissolve the gunk (that's a technical term). Remove the shower head and using an old toothbrush, give all the spray nozzles a good scrubbing to dislodge any large deposits. Then let it soak for another 5 minutes and remove, rinse, and re-install on the shower. You should be fine.

If you're using the white vinegar, you'll need to let it soak for at least 2-4 hours, to get all the stuff loosened up, as the white vinegar doesn't work nearly as fast or as well as the CLR cleaner. Do the same thing, scrub with the brush to help dislodge any heavy buildup and re-soak the shower head again. Remove, rinse and re-install.

I think you'll find this is a much better and just as effective way to clean the shower head without the worry of messing up or having the small components inside, come apart and cuase you a reassembly nightmare.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

If you take off shower head and look inside you will see what is called a water saver. Pull it out and this will give you a full port so more water can come out unrestricted. reinstall shower head and be careful the new pressure does not knock you down.