20 Most Recent Crane Plumbing 3755 Toilet-To-Go Metro Complete Replacement Toilet Questions & Answers

Not familiar with this one, but Korky says they have a replacement flapper that will fit. I haven't seen a topilet that requires tank removal to replace the fill valve. https://www.amazon.com/Korky-57BP-Fits-Crane-Flapper/dp/B000M2W7WK

You have a main drain clog. The sinks are clogged too (run water and you will see it come up the tub). Is this a one floor house? Basement? You probably should call a plumber unless you are willing to take on the task of snaking it yourself. Sounds like you may have a house on a slab? (no basement)?

Check your over flow pipe in the tank to see if you need to lower the water level amount in the tank. If thats not it, it could be the seal thats under your flapper between the tank and base. Simple fix just alittle time consuming

The water level in the bowl is limited by the height of the internal trap down stream from the bowl. There is no adjustment possible. If the problem is odors, you can either flush more often, turn on the exhaust fan, or buy a different brand or model of toilet.

You need to replace the flush valve gasket. It comes in a flush valve kit, it's a rubber gasket that goes between the tank and the bowl. You just pull the tank off and it's on the under side of it. Be careful the black stuff on the gasket doesn't come off your hands. Make sure you get the new one on there even and all the way on. This will fix your problem. Good Luck

Tool Belt Diva
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Hello...

To adjust the water level, you need to set the height at which the float shuts off the water valve. There are several types of floats. In older toilets, the float hangs at the end of an armature, along a metal or plastic rod. Where that arm connects to the water valve there is usually a screw. Adjusting that screw will change the level at which the water valve shuts off. If there is no screw or it is already at its maximum, you may be able to bend the metal arm, but you should remove it from the valve or risk damaging the fill valve.
In newer toilets the float is often a collar around the fill valve and rides up and down vertically. The float typically has a spring clip connecting it to a metal rod which connects to the valve shut off control. Squeeze the spring clip to slide the float up or down the metal rod.
Manufacturers have several variations on the fill valve mechanism, but they all include a method for adjusting the water level. Close inspection should make it clear how to adjust your particular fill valve.

I hope this helps!

That would mean the actual tubing itself has a leak in it or has just worn out. You can replace the whole line there with a new one, I doubt it's the attachment side which is part of your toilet. You are going to want to look into a new line, just head to home depot or lowes (or any hardware store) and get one.

Thanks
Tim

You can find a replacement tank on the manufactures website. However, if it's not leaking or leaking very little you can cover the crack, on the inside of the tank, with an epoxy compound. There is a whole lot of pressure on the inside of a tank and typically when they crack it shows up as a very slow leak as the water seeps through the crack. When using the epoxy don't try to put it just in or on the crack. Seal an area a couple inches either side of the crack. These are usually hair line cracks and you won't necessarily be able to see the entire area of damage.

This is usually the result of long hot showers and lack of ventilation. Open a window, or install an exhaust fan that runs whenever the light is on or kick those kids out of the shower. Another (maybe silly) option is to run a detour in the supply cold water-- that is, make the water supply that feeds these toilets run through a long section of 3/4 inch copper pipe in the basement so that the water can warm up a little before it fills the tank. 50 ft of 3/4 inch pipe holds about a gallon. (That would run you about $75 plus fittings.)

It sounds like it is running constantly because of the leak. Where is the leak, at the bottom, around the plastic nuts underneath or is there a crack in the tank? Let me know.
Fix the leak and will have fixed the running problem

Take off the top lid and look at the flush handle mechanism. You'll see a not that holds it onto the tank. Tighten the nut so it is snug. Don't overtighten it or you could crack the tank. Next inspect the chain that goes between the end of the flush handle rod and the flapper valve. It should lift the flapper all the the way up when you operate the handle.

If you cannot vent it properly, the cheater vent will work fine. Cut in a tee wye (TY) withing that 5 feet and aim up. Cut a piece of pipe so it is at least 6 inches above the flood level rim of the washer, attach a female adapter and screw in the pro vent (cheater vent). Good luck.

The numbers you need should be stamped into the porcelain under the cover. Bring those numbers to your nearest plumbing supply house and they will be able to help you. Good luck.

there is a float on the flapper chain lower the float as far down as it will go this will give you a better flush

Have you checked the flapper at the bottom of the tank? Could be easy to repair in that case.
Other thing is that the chain has snagged and is holding it open.
Hope it helps.

adjust the over flow

Yes they sell a split repair flange, Should be able to locate at any Home Depot, Lowes or plumbing supply store.