20 Most Recent American Standard AMERICAN STD 100 Prop Water Heater COM D-100-270-ASLP Questions & Answers

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will tell you how to reset that hot water heater...

Electric Water Heater not Working
heatman101

Generally, they are a your normal low end hot water heater. I have seen American Standard units last up to 20 years (like mine) with not problems, and I have seen them not last three years before the tank ruptured.

We have more calls on the Rheem and Brandford Whites than American Standards as far an minor problems.

Pros: Cheap; reasonably reliable; parts readily available.
Cons: Not energy efficient; tank quality - flexible.

When mine goes would I replace it with another American Standard? No, I would install the Bosch tankless water heater.

if you have a pilot light but no flame you need a thermo coupler very easy to change but you need
to turn the gas off and pull the gun out at the end of the gun the pilot light heats the thermo coupler
that tells the gun it has a flame at the end and its ok to turn on the gas for a flame home depot will
carry a new one for you

hope this helps you
good luck
bob

Hi Kathlene.
Typical American Standard sell sheet for 100 270 AS also shows contact information for company with phone numbers
http://www.waterheating.com/pdf/100270.pdf
One seller shows this product for $3000 + shipping
http://shop.waterheatermaninc.com/product.sc?categoryId=2&productId=10

Rheem builds commercial gas water heaters under their name and under other brand names.
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=FC6D548B-54EC-46C9-9DC0-79DEC29198D7
Contact Rheem:
http://www.rheem.com/Contact.aspx

For example Rheem GP100-250(A) meets same delivery as American standard product
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=d26ba16f-c16f-4c45-90a8-d1f5d5f97020
One company sells product for $3900
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/ventmaster.aspx

For example model GD100-250(A) meets same delivery as American standard product
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=276b892c-1fb8-40f1-8238-51d4a7d84846
This product might sell for $6900

Tank Water Heaters need to be flushed now and gain to get rid of MINERAL buildup. At the bottom is a water valve where you can attach a hose. Run the hose out doors and then open the valve to allow the water to flow freely. That was easy. When water heats up, especially where the elements or gas flame are close to the heater bottom area, it may crackle or pop, but that is only expansion and contraction which is normal. Just watch to see if any water drips onto the floor which is a sign that the wall has been breached and the heater needs to be replaced.

Based on the limited information you have given, it may be a bad thermostat.

most of electric element is 1 1/2" socket. No need to hire pro , at www.bangslush.com they sell the element socket for only $ 14.95 with free shipping. The socket is especially engineer for 1 1/2" water heater elements, the socket not like other, the elements is snug fit for easy removal and replacement. it also snap on onto the socket the element will not fall off the socket

Contact AO Smith ? http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

It is probably the water passing through some restriction such as a valve or maybe a T or 90. If this is correct changing the water flow will change the pitch and it will be absent when there is no water flow. If that doesn't change or eliminate the high pitch sound I do not have a clue.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-fix-water-heater.html http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html Gene h If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The thermocouple is not functioning. The t/c is the small (sensor) tube that the flame touches and should have a small copper tube (capillary) extending to the gas valve. (IMPORTANT: The capillary tube should not have any kinks or crimped places...Only gentle bends. A crimped tube will require t/c replacement.) The flame will deposit a coating (minerals) that will insulate the t/c and prevent it from working. Clean the sensor with steel wool, fine sand paper (emery board) or scotch pad. Now try to relight the pilot making sure the t/c sensor is contacted by the flame, if not, shut off gas and adjust. Once aligned and contacted by pilot flame, hold for a minute, allowing the t/c to warm up fully and signal the gas valve to operate when knob is turned from pilot to operate.

You didn't indicate model, etc., but consider the following: If an electric unit: 1-Check the circuit breakers, 2-Some units have a reset on the unit, check that, 3-If this is an older unit, the heating element may be gone and need to be replaced. If a gas unit: 1-Ensure the gas is turned, 2-Ensure that pilot light is on, if not, relight UNLESS..., 3-If automatic lighting, does unit spark when attempting to come on. If this unit is over 10 years old, I would recommend completely replacing it rather than repairing it if the above doesn't work. New units are much more efficient and the savings could outweigh the cost in the long run.