20 Most Recent OTC 7471A CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE BARRING TOOL - 7471A Questions & Answers

We are Cummins diesel generator OEM. Can provide 24KW to 2400KW diesel power generator with Cummins engine. Also provide Cummins engine parts and user manual to clients. You can find the repair manual by Cummins engine official website or turn to supplier for help. https://www.dieselgeneratortech.com/cummins

check fuel filter it may be only getting enough fuel to run up to so many rpm

http://www.servicerepairmanualdownload.com/cummins-mercruiser-qsd-2-0-diesel-engines-service-manual-download

I don't know what exactly do you need, but check out the service manual for any repair procedure you want to make. Cummins N14 Engines Service Manual

to answer the first question:
the timing marks are on the accessory drive pulley. you will have an A, B, and C with a line at each one. you will line those up with the raised portion of the front gear cover. more likely than not, the letters are either painted over or rusted over, so they may be somewhat hard to spot. you will have to use a 1 5/16" socket to bar the engine over by the nut on the accessory drive pulley.

the second question: to removed the air compressor, you will need to disconnect all the lines going to and from the air compressor and fuel pump. this includes having to drain your coolant in order to disconnect the cooling lines to the compressor. you will need to remove fuel lines, air lines to the air governor, and anything else that may hang up. be prepared to replace any gaskets that you disrupt during this process, because they WILL leak if you do not. there are, if i remember correctly, 4 5/8" nuts that hold the air compressor on the accessory drive, 3 of them are relatively easy to get to, however the 4th, the one at the top closest to the block, must be removed with a special wrench, it is an S shaped wrench that you can buy from a snapon or matco dealer made specifically for that nut. once they are removed the compressor/fuel pump assembly should come right apart. if any damage is done to the accessory drive however, you must replace that as well, which could lead to a very large mess.

I myself work for Cummins, and have recently done this very repair for local cement company. I had to replace the accessory drive gasket due to a leak. Once the accessory drive was removed, I found that the accessory drive bushing in the gear housing had spun. That leads to a repair of having to replace the entire gear housing. To due so you must hoist the engine up and remove the front engine supports and removed that entire housing. So be warned, it may be a much more daunting task then it seems to appear.

Good Luck

bad injectors it can be the o rings

sounds like ecm is not getting power. check powers and grounds at ecm,

On the Celect,you adjust valves & inj on same cyl.The mark A is now 1-6,B is 2-5, & C is 3-4.Valves are Int 0.014 & Exhaust is 0.027.The injector you hand tighten screw until injector plunger bottoms out.Back screw out 2 flats,ie turn corner of lock nut to align with the rivet in the rocker lever(pushtube side),then back out screw two "corners" then tighten the jam nut down.Adjust the Injector first,then the valves. What is the CPL because it makes a different on injector setting.CPLs 821,833,903,904,& 806 are 105 INLBSCPLs 910,827,1185,1188,1210,1211,1256,&1280 are 90 INLBSCPLs 1374,1380,1395,1405,& 1507 are 125 INLBSOn the STC,you adjust valves & inj on same cyl.The mark A is now 1-6,B is 2-5, & C is 3-4.Valves are Int 0.014 & Exhaust is 0.027.The injector you torque to specs to bottom injector plunger.Then tighten the jam nut down.Adjust the Injector first,then the valves. On STC it would be greatly advised to run injector flush through the fuel system for an hour to clean carbon off injector tips to prevent plugging spray holes causing a missfire.Cummins sells it in a metal can & you sill need a return & suction line to hook up to engine(one at fuel inlet & one on fuel return) and run it out of the can. Firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4

Are all of your dash lights coming on as usualy before you try restarting the engine - it could be that the pcm is becoming heat sensitive and needing to cool down before it can restart. time the falled restart time ( try starting it every minute and note it ) then take a bag of ice and put it on and around the pcm and check for any difference, if it restarts twice as fast with the ice replace the pcm. Hope this works for you, complements of Mike at Rock Creek Repair.

most fuel oil mixing occurs at head cylinder gasket area. the area near pistons is most at risk.

Your engine won't start because it is detecting a low coolant level. But according to you it has coolant, meaning the sender or sensor is bad. If it is a sender it is very easy to bypass while you get the sender( very important to replace). It is a sender it will have one or two wires. To bypass, 1. If it has one wire ground it
2. If it has two wires join both of them. Remember to put the wires back to its place after replacing. If it is a sensor you won't be able to bypass and it has three wire, one positive a negative and a signal. If is a sender you will be able to bypass. After bypassing disconnect the negative terminal at the battery for a couple of minutes allowing the E.C.M. to reset. Hope this helps

Divide by 12

in and outlet both 0.15 mm.