Standard Oregon Chainsaw Chain For Stihl Chainsaw 24" Bar Length 84 Drive Links 3/8 0.05 Gauge Chiesel Chain - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

http://www.mediafire.com/download/wgb4lhi23oyr6gh

According to page 62 in the Stihl user manual: Spark plug (resistor type): Bosch WSR 6 F Electrode gap: 0.02 in. (0.5 mm) http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/instructionmanuals/STIHL-MS-210-230-250-Instruction-Manual.pdf

1. Check Idle settings.
2. Check Spark plug some plug is bad if engine heating!
3. Check all sealings, first check gaskets between cilinder and carburator, then crancase sealings.

sounds like the engine has seized up. SORRY. did you mix the fuel with 2 cycle oil?

ck.the oiler drive gear behind the chain sproket

This depends on the language you are best at reading. Many great physisists have come from Germany and Austria. You may want to look into the language that is best understood by you.
Special Therory is difficult enough to usderstand in your good language let alone a foreign one ;)
Good luck

Joe

remove chain plate, clean all check oil drain is clean. check oil tank cap, is ther air inlet clean.

check also gaskets between cilinder and carburator.

33RS chain goes dull faster because it is a full chisel chain. Stihl chain is prestretched and will only stretch if heat builds up. Make sure your oiler is putting out more than .3 ounces per min at 13,000 rpm and if any chrome is peeled off of the chain swap it for a good one. Dirt takes less than .003 of a second to dull an entire chain.
check with a local dealer like www.arcolawn.com to see if your machine can be fitted with a carbide chain that can last up to 4 times as long in dirt and hard wood.
Good luck

I would recommend checking the flywheel key. It is not common but if the clutch had been removed with an impact gun it may have sheared the key. You can do this by removing the starter and flywheel.
consult a local dealer like www.arcolawn.com for Stihl parts and tools.

Best wishes,

the coil gap on that saw is 10-15 thousandths
find parts and details about Stihl at dealers like www.arcolawn.com

Joe

Check the intake side of the piston by shining a light in to the manifold with the carburetor removed. if you see machine marks missing on more than 10% of the face of the piston you have fuel reversion. This is when the fuel put in the engine by the carburetor is leaking back out through the worn piston. this leftover fuel builds up or pools and causes the machine to flood out. Sometimes you can tell by a wet plug but many times the plug will be dry brcause the engine is up to temperature.

If this is the case I recommend replacing the piston,cylinder,seals and cleaning all the fuel system parts.

You can find stihl parts at local dealers like www.arcolawn.com

Please vote if this helped you. I am trying to get to Expert ;)

Anti (counter) clocwise increases oil flow (I think - it's been a while).
you won't damage it if you get wrong. Make your ajustment and rev the saw to maximum, pointing the tip of the bar at a reflective surface (about 2 inches away) for about 20 seconds if you see a layer of liquid covering about half an inch wide then the oil is ok.

Move the shut off back and forth. When they get old contact is not always made.

I would try here first. I have had good luck getting old parts here. I hope it helps you out.
www.jackssmallengines.com/stihl_index.cfm

depends wheres there made...always try and use genuine stihl though

at any stihl distributor

You may need a carb rebuild kit. they are thin rubber diaphrams and will harden up and warp if not used regularly or if the fuel is improperly mixed.
These are easy to flood if you pull them too many times on choke. Pull it on HALF choke until it pops. then turn the choke off, into the run (I) position and pull it until it starts.
If it's flooded, remove teh plug under the cover, blow off the sparking end and pull the engine a few times without the plug. this will empy the cylinder. WATCH YOUR EYES!

I might remove the starter cover and inspect the flywheel and crankshaft Woodruf key alignment. If it is good try this:
Starter Handle difficult to pull:
1. Remove the starter cover. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including but not limited to; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; cracked fuel delivery lines; running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the plug. Remove the muffler (clean it and the spark arrestor before reinstalling), hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

check the ground wire on the on and off switch, it could be a bad ground