20 Most Recent Hayward 1.5hp Pool Pump Motor Motor A O Smith Electric Pool Motor for 56j Frame Motors Ust1152 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

its trying to start check voltage to fan if ok bad fan motor if no check safety circuit

https://haywarddocs.info/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/UHS-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf Page 34-35

shorted heater element

sounds like it doesn't have any water in the boiler

http://pyrate.org

Are you sure it has a centrifugal switch? Capacitor start/ capacitor run have been the standard for a good number of years.

Hayward's website has manuals for all their products.

The 24v is called the secondary and sometimes called the out-put. Make sure you have 240v on the primary, sometimes referred to as the in-put. If you have primary voltage then you should have secondary voltage, if not then replace transformer. Make sure the secondary, 24v control fuse is the correct size and present. If the secondary is shorting together or to ground somewhere, it will cause damage to the transformer.

Call a qualified electrician. More information would be needed to accurately trouble shoot your issue. Do you have automation connected to your heater? Is the heater trying to fire when the pump is off or is it ONLY the fan? Try disconnecting your Water Pressure switch on the heater and see if the issue stops. With WP switch disconnected the heater should not work and the fan should stay off. Replace WP switch and see what happens. Call a QUALIFIED electrician.

Underneath the back cap on motor

Check for proper supply voltage and that the impeller moves freely. If these are good then likely a bad capacitor.

the prologic control unit will not offer programming for what you seek. the most detailed timers will offer weekday or weekend for each pump speed. you may want to get a remote system so you can control functions from your smartphone

try filling your hose by holding it in front of the return jet. once filled, hook the hose up as normal

it almost sounds like the temperature sensor is in the wrong place. that or the flow is inadequate for the heater to run. if you have a sand filter, put it on 'whirlpool' or 'recirculate' and try to run the heater.

this is a common issue. there is a componant on the circuit board called a voltage limiter. when there are power surges (by hydro company or by using a timer), this capacitor takes the surge to protect the circuit board. in your case, the limiter has blown. you can either replace the circuit board or find someone to remove the limiter and solder in a new one. (its the round black disc to the right of the front display toward the top) in most cases, you will see a hairline crack in the casing or it may have exploded completely. i usually tap it with a screw driver to show customers the damage. FYI: i usually replace about 50 a year and never had one fail

the rinse setting only cleans out the dirty water in freeboard and pushes sand to pack it. just about impossible for it to not work. if there is water coming out the discharge, you are golden.

there is a relay on the back of the main circuit board that has separated from the circuit. you can resolder this relay quite easily by removing the board. DANGER: be sure to cut the power to the control box at the main breaker. turning off the breakers in the hayward box will NOT eliminate the power

i find the aqua rite systems to be very helpful in diagnosing problems. if you can describe the problem you are having, i may be able to help

As far as I know, refrigerant is not used in the heating of pools and spas. Sounds like it is just a connection leak and can be fixed by redoing the joint connection.

Check to make sure that there is enough water in the pool and that the weir door in the skimmer box isn't jammed in the upright position