20 Most Recent Hayward 1.5hp Pool Pump Motor Motor A O Smith Electric Pool Motor for 56j Frame Motors Ust1152 Questions & Answers

220 volt motor 220 volt heater 2 hot wires blacks and reds each wire to ground or geen is 110

sounds like a seized bearing. they can be replaced at your local motor shop or pool store. now that its buzzing, i would also suggest getting the start capacitor replaced at the same time.

the impeller is usually screw onto the shaft or the shaft has a D (flatspot on one side to lock impeller) so no, the shaft cannot spin without the impeller moving unless the shaft is snapped or impeller is totally stripped (ive never seen either) if the pump is running but not pushing water, take the wet end off and make sure there is no debris (leaves, worms etc) caught in the impeller fins. you will be amazed at how much that will reduce the performance of a pump

double the amps, 230 runs cooler (my fav) . 1.5 is 9.6 amps at 230 volt. you will need to set the motor to run on on the lower voltage this is why you are having problems.. also the motor is thermally protected . this why it will run for awhile and shot off .. remember to prime the pump after any pump repair !!!! . jay the pool pump repair guy in longwood florida

I would imagine a call to the exterminator would solve you problem for less time and money than pulling and replacing the motor year after year. You could try Diazanon(spelling?) yourself which is available at most home center and hardware stores and it would save you a lot of money but professional exterminators use better chemicals and they may be able to offer a more permanent solution than always having them chemically treat the area every year.

If your motor runs backwards, you wired the motor backwards. Change your wires around and it will run the correct way.RodUS Parts Center888-521-6183

It depends which pump you have, on hayward super II you shut off the breaker, remove the rear motor cover, disconnect the electrical wires, then remove the 4 (9/16")bolts holding the motor to the "wet end" which is where the basket is. Now, pop off the diffuser, sometimes it stays in the wet end when you remove the motor. At the rear of the motor, use a 12mm wrench to hold the shaft, then unscrew the impeller (counter-clockwise) after removing the impeller, theres another plastic plate that lifts off, remove the plate, now there are 4 (9/16")bolts to remove in order to separate the motor from the seal plate. You have now broken down the pump. If you replace the motor, make sure to get a new seal as well (ps201)

Reversing rotation of 3 phase motors: CAUTION: Before attempting any repair of electrical equipment verify the power is disconnected to the device. CAUTION: Three phase motors could potentially be controlled by frequency control systems. It is recommended a trained electrician perform repairs to any electrical system. In particular, consult a trained electrician if the system includes a frequency control system. Most 3 phase motors can reverse rotation simply by swapping any 2 of the 3 phase wires. A typical 3 phase wiring circuit will include a safety ground wire (usually green) and 3 phase wires, often designated A/B/C, or 1/2/3, or color coded to distinguish each. By swapping the terminal connection of any 2 of the three phase wires, for example, 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 or 1 & 3, but leaving the third phase wire unchanged will reverse the rotation of most motors.

Over time it will attack the motor, yes. There are pumps especially designed for salt water pools, with 316 stainless steel parts, and an open section in the casing between impeller housing and motor casing, and seals on either side with a flinger on the shaft. Eventually though the salt will get to the motor somehow. Mind you we are talking years. On my salt water pool, now 23 yrs old, it is on its 3rd motor, which is about 5 yrs old.

It is likely the motor start capacitor has failed, especially if it gets going when the motor is turned manually.

1 or 2 capacitors on this motor? Sometimes there are two... One is a "Start" capacitor and if a 2nd one, that one is a "Run" capacitor. If only 1 capacitor and you have replaced it... if not a faulty capacitor, then your windings are shot? When I test a motor with this symptom, I will use the "Clock Face" method of checking for "Dead Spots" on the winding/stator: Once you have removed the shaft cap on the back of the motor, I presume you have done this since that is only way to turn the shaft manually to get it to run in the manner you described. Place a small mark (1/4" long?) on the outside perimeter of the shaft, say at the 12:00 position. See picture attached... Then flip switch, does it start or hum? Then rotate shaft until your mark is now at the 1:00 position. Flip power switch, running or humming? Do this at all clock positions as you turn/rotate shaft until you reach 12:00 once more. If the pump hums at all clock positions completely dead motor or bad capacitor. If a dead spot is at only one clock position, then absolutely, bad motor - either rebuild or replace. Coincidentally the motor may stop each time on a dead spot, where the motor won't start due to a fried portion of the stator/winding/armature, only a major repair fixes this. The purpose of the test is to place the position of the stator in a different position in relation to the windings. If humming all the way around, then possibly a bad capacitor, because it is not starting in any position. If it starts say at all positions except 4:00 and 9:00 then motor is bad. Good luck

remove the motor from the wet end of the pump remove the cover on the impeller then remove the impeller screw it it normally backwards thread then spin off the impeller this has a regular thread split the motor from the backing plate then remove the seals and replace with new ones then reverse process