20 Most Recent
Shoprider Sprinter XL4 Questions & Answers
Don't have a troubleshooting book. replaced
Hi. Some shoprider machines have fault codes and most dont. I will try and cover what the main faults might be.
Free-wheel lever in the wrong position. Faulty brake coil. Resistance should be about 50 ohm's.
Stuck brush in the motor stopping the motor from operating. Check the resistance through the motor, should be approx. 1 ohm.
Speed lever ( wig wag ) not in central or neutral position or faulty..
Battery voltage too low or battery leads faulty.
Good luck. Neil.
11/16/2018 11:08:44 AM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Nov 16, 2018
Hi i have a shoprider
hi Dave, it could be a number of things,
1. Firstly the throttle pot ,When the scooter starts to slow down , gently push the wigwag (throttle lever ) in the upwards or downwards direction to see whether it corrects the slowing down, if it does keep it there, if it seems to fix the problem you need a new throttle pot.
2. What 's happening to the battery power meter ? is it fading or moving ? Weak batteries or a dodgy charger
3. Motor brushes not inserted fully or worn
4. Controller issue (Rare )
Regards
Rob
www,gewizrepairs.co.uk
2/4/2018 10:58:04 AM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Feb 04, 2018
Why won't batteries charge?
Those chargers are designed to turn solid green when the batteries are fully charged. When batteries are less than new and have some time on them they will not charge as much as a new one. It is conceivable that either the battery condition is not the best there is or that perhaps there may be something wrong with the charger.
I suspect it is the new batteries not being so new.
8/29/2015 9:45:58 PM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Aug 29, 2015
Cuts out after going over a bump
Hi , 1. It could be a faulty reset switch, 2. controller issues where it drawing to much current , check wiring to the motor and check the brushes , high carbon build up ?? check the wiring from the batteries to the controller looking for loose connections and wiring discoloration .
The best bet would be a faulty reset switch..
Regards
Rob
www.gewizrepairs.co.uk
1/5/2014 6:31:39 PM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Jan 05, 2014
Shoperrider no drive just a click
Hi. Sounds to me as if you have a sticky carbon brush in the motor. Each brushe is held in the motor by small black plastic or bakealite cap that screw in the outside or the brush holders. If these caps are not tight enough then the brush or the spring will arc from the side of the brush holder. This causes the brush to become jamed, and does not contact with the commutator on the armature.
You need to remove the brushes, check that they slide freely in the brush holders, fit new springs if neccessary, and reassemble. If the brushes are too tight, the file very carefully on the sides to allow them to move freely. Do not tighten the black plastic caps too hard or they will break, but they have to be snug. Be carefull.
Good luck. Neil.
1/8/2012 5:48:48 AM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Jan 08, 2012
Scooter needs to be run forward before it will
Sounds like you have a bad motor brush or motor.
I would block up the scooter, remove the seat and rear shroud and inspect the motor while it is running up on blocks. Use a rubber band or tape to hold the throttle lever. Listen for unusual sounds like a whine or growl from the motor, brake or trans-axle. Inspect and wiggle all the wiring, checking for loose connections at the batteries, controller, and front to rear wiring harnesses. See if you can duplicate the problem using a rubber mallet to simulate a bump.
Use a digital voltmeter to check the motor. The brake should read between 40 and 60 ohms and the motor coil resistance should be less than 1.2 ohms. You should pull the caps on the motor brushes and inspect for wear, burning , and melted leads. I have seen the motor brush hang up on the armature in one direction and not the other. You might try rotating the brush 180 degrees on installation to see if this is the case. Large carbon build up inside the motor from brush wear can also cause this. Blow out the brush dust with compressed air when you have the brushes out. There could be another problem related to what you describe and is associated with the throttle potentiometer. If there are dead spots on the potentiometer you could experience the same forward and reverse problem.
The first solution involves replacing a motor/brake, the second involves replacing the throttle potentiometer. Both repairs are straightforward and within the expertise of a good do-it-yourself-er. The parts should be available on-line at a discount. You will save considerable by doing your own labor. Hope this helps.
12/16/2010 3:43:53 AM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Dec 16, 2010
Shoprider laid up for a couple of months Now only goes click
Hi Nigel. Sounds like the brake assembly ( Free-wheel ) is not releasing. Can you manually release the free-wheel and push to scooter? If you cant push it the the brake solenoid might be the fault. I have had a few over the years that have done this. The resistance through the coil should be approx 50 ohm's.
Otherwise the motor might be burnt out. Motors that are burnt out give a very distinctive burnt varnish smell. Good luck. Neil.
6/1/2010 9:30:47 AM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Jun 01, 2010
Don't have a troubleshooting book. replaced
Shoprider scooters beep when there is a problem with them. Firstly, are the batteries ok? You can obviously tell this from your battery meter on the tiller (although its not uncommen for these to fail and give false readings on shopriders). If batts are ok, you need to determine what type of main contol box is on the scooter. This will be located at the rear of the scooter, underneath the plastic shroud. Remove the seat, then the plastic shroud, to get to it. You may need to dis-connect a plug to the rear lights. If you can see a black box with ridges on, with lots of wires entering it, and it has the word Pihsiang written somewhere on it, theres a good chance it will be this that is at fault (although not difinately, could be a wiring loom problem). These boxes have no diagnostics built in, so they beep constantly when at fault. If its a different type of control box that you see, it may beep a certain amount of times to indicate what the problem is. Count the beeps and refer to your owners manual or a dealer to determine the fault. Hope I've been of some help to you.
3/29/2010 3:01:11 PM •
Shoprider...
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Answered
on Mar 29, 2010
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