A high-pitched sound which occurs when filling is usually cavitation - air in the water valve causes a kind of "squeal". It's relatively harmless, but can be annoying. You may need a new inlet valve. But first just try detaching and re-attaching the hoses to the valve. Sometimes that's enough to fix it.
First the source of the leak needs to be identified. pull the machine out from under the counter and remove the left side panel exposing the blue float assembly. Turn the machine on and observe the fill cycle. if water comes out anywhere on the fill mechanism then the inlet valve needs to be replaced. once the machine has filled and begun to cycle cancel the program and drain the unit. observe closly where the leak is happening. a leak during drain usually indicated a leaking drain hose.
Hello there and welcome to fixya The child lock function of your Bosch dishwasher prevents accidental
program changes and stops children playing with the controls while the
appliance is running. You might want to turn the lock off if it has been
accidentally turned on. The controls of the dishwasher are disabled,
preventing you from starting a new wash, while the child lock is
running. The lock is simple to turn on and off, as necessary, in just a few secondsRead more: How to Get the Child Lock off a Bosch Dishwasher ' eHow.comhttp://www.ehow.com/how_12069321_child-lock-off-bosch-dishwasher.html#ixzz2E7bFXnhsplease feel free to give me a rating if this works for you it helps me give you the best help i possiabley can ok Best regards Mike
Check you dont have a small inline filter inside the inlet water pipe. Either at the "tap" end or can be on the machine itself. They look like a small sieve. Remove it and clean with a toothbrush. Then put back.
On my dishwasher, this arm attaches with a huge gray plastic screw. If it comes loose, you'll usually find the spray arm sitting in the bottom rack, but the screw falls down to the bottom of the tub.
The spray arm has a hole that goes all the way through its center. One of these holes is larger than the other, so the arm will only attach in one direction. Most of the spray holes on the arm face "up" when installed.
Slide out the upper rack, position the spray arm on its pivot, then insert the screw and turn clockwise to tighten it. The arm should spin freely.
If this arm isn't attached, none of the dishes will wash well (due to a loss of water pressure).
i have the same problem....i would think the inlet valve is leaking....that would be the mechanism where the water supply is attached to the dishwasher.......did you get yours fixed? can you help please?
Im really not all that familiar with the bosch unit, but a few things i would ck. when you cancel a cycle (it should drain the water) is it humming??? does it sound as if it even trickling into the sink discharge?? do you have a disposer under your sink that this unit drains into, if so remove the clamp and look for possible obstructions right there.Honestly passed this ill have to defer to someone else sorry and good luck
Based on your description I'd say the issue actually with the control...unfortunately. **B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, you can check with yours, though many not included here still suffers from the same problem...you'll need the serial number too. Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **
As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).
If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning and obviously no "extra" heat ( aside from the water inlet temp. ) as a result.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
i.e.
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
see this causes and fix it. God bless youPower Supply
The main power supply is the first thing to check. Also remove the toe
kick and the cover on the power box and check the connections. Also check for 120 volts at the power box.
Hi - Limit Fuse
This will fail if your dishwasher overheats and occassionally with power
surges. This is easy to check, inexpensive and a quick fix. Just check
the terminals for continuity ( remember always remove one wire) if you
have none replace the hi limit fuse
Door Switch
This is the second place to look. Again an inexpensive easy fix. The following video will walk you thru checking the door switch. . The power comes into the main power box and usually runs to the door switch next before entering the main control module.
Main Control Module / Timer
The main control module or mechanical timer controls all the functions
of the dishwasher. To check this you will need to find the 2 leads that
supply the power to the control. They will be marked on the wiring
diagram. They usually come from the hi - limit fuse or the door switch.
When the door is latched you should have 120 volts entering the main
control. If you do not the problem is not the control. If you do have
power entering the control but none of the functions work properly or it
does not respond at all you will need to replace the control module ,
this is easy to replace but not very inexpensive to purchase. Consider
the age and overall condition when purchasing this part.
Motor
The motor may have failed. If the control illuminates on electronic
versions the problem may be the motor. To check the motor refer to the
tech sheet located behind the console cover on most models, this will
sometimes have the ohm reading of the motor. Also check each lead to the
metal housing of the motor to check for shorts in the motor. If you do
not have the ohm reading specicifications, check for continuity if none replace the motor Make sure the motor is receiving power
Float Switch
If the float switch has failed or is stuck the dishwasher control may
not respond. The float switch is easy to check and replace.
I understand you have a Bosch dishwasher were you have 3/4 of an inch of water in the bottom...this can be the result of several things actually.
The first thing to rule out is any blockages in ther hose or the pump well. Remove the spray arm and filter and then the impeller cover to check for any debris...to do so is as follows 1) remove the spray arm simply by pulling it up and off. 2) now turn the fine filter counterclockwise and pull it out. This will also release the stainless steel filter below. Under the filter you will see the sump with the drain pump to the left and the wash to the right. i.e. 3) With a number 20 torx screwdriver remove the impeller cover and check the impeller for damage or any debris...i.e.
You could also be getting water backing into the unit after the pump stops if you have a worn or blocked check valve. I could possible send you the service manual if you think that may help you, but you would need to provide an email address for me to attach and send it to. It is "pdf".
Of course there are many possible scenarios such as a worn pump impeller so I'll need to watch for your reply before moving forward.
No it isn't normal their shouldn't be any visable water in the tub at the end. You can firstly check filter by removing lower rack and unscrew the filter asm. espically the round basket for blockage,if that is clear reinstall it and check your disposer that the drain hose connects to in most cases for blockage, if sink drains normally the disposer is ok. If you have one check air gap on sink for debris in it,it's a chrome(most of the time and in some cases a different color) cap that sits up about 2 inches somewhere on the sink. While it deals with a different brand i have included a youtube video that will show you how to check air gap.
The cause of that is the d/w not being level. It's fairly easy to level be removing the lower kickplate(under and slightly back from the front door panel) and either raise the front or lower the rear. Depending on your counter top its most advisable to lower the rear,if you have a stone countertop lowering the d/w is a whole lot less likely to damage a expensive countertop.To lower the rear look and find a plastic hexagon shaped screw with a slot in it ,located in the center of the base frame,use a straight blade screwdriver and turn that piece in a counterclockwise direction, if you raise the front, the legs are in the corners of the base frame also turn them in a counterclock wise direction to raise dishwasher
Good luck I hope this help,if it does please give me a 4 thumbs up rating
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
The following steps require using electrical power. You assume all responsibility / risk for any mis-fortunes cause by working on this dishwasher with power applied.
The first step will require using a meter on the water valve solenoid teminals.
- Remove all power.
- Remove the lower toe / kick panel(s).
- Locate the main water supply line and follow that to the inlet water valve.
- Slide the connector(s) off of the solenoid and read resistance on meter scale R x 1 or R x 10. You should read a low resistance. If you do not read any resistance the inlet water valve has failed.
If you do read resistance you must check switch the meter to AC voltage and apply power and read for AC voltage on the teminals of the wire harness.
- Start a reular wash cycle to where the unit should be filing with water.
it SHOULD read 120 VAC.
If you have no power at the connector teminals
- Check the float switch plastic FLOAT. If the float is stuck in the UP position due to food particulate on the FLOAT stem you willnot have power to the inlet water valve solenoid.
If you have power to inlet water valve solenoid and it is buzzing / humming but you get no water there is debris in the main water supply line. You wil have to shut off the water supply and clean out the inlet of the water valve.
Check for s stuck float... and that the level switch is actuated as the float id lifed gently up and down. If you do not hear a micro-switch click the switch is bad. If the float is hard to move... clean it as best you can so that it moves freely up and down.
Hi, if it is leaking around/under the door, it must be the seal around the door. Check to see if the seal needs to be pushed in somewhere or is damaged.. Try running the cycle with no dishes in the washer and see if it leaks, it sounds like a gasket in the door to me and you can also check hose by removing the front panel on floor and check there....
Inspect the door gasket. As it ages, the gasket can crack or become hard, preventing it from sealing completely. If the gasket appears solid, adjust the door latch so the door seals tightly. Loosen the screw that holds the door latch to the cabinet. Push the latch in slightly and retighten the screw. Test the door and readjust the latch if necessary. Replace the gasket if water continues to leak after you've tightened the latch. Most gaskets are held by compression in a groove on the door or on the dishwasher cabinet.
This depends what you mean by "runs". If the dishwasher continues with a wash cycle - i.e. circulating water - with the door open, the simple answer is that you have a defective door microswitch.
However, I suspect what you perceive to be the dishwasher running, is actually the drain pump running continuously. This happens when the anti-flood protection system has been activated and continues even when the door is opened. The simplest way to check is to open the door (while it's "running") and pour some water into the tub. If the water drains away immediately, this shows the drain pump is running and the anti-flood protection has been activated.
This may be due to water having leaked into the base of the dishwasher, but it could be as simple as a stuck or defective float-switch.
Please try the simple test above then post back for further assistance. If you're planning to investigate or repair this yourself, you're going to need a Torx T20 screwdriver and a multi-meter would be useful as well.
