20 Most Recent Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher - Page 6 Questions & Answers

nope have to get access to left side

possibility is the pressure chamber or hose (pressure chamber to sump) is blocked and the microswitch is being activated because the water is not entering the tank quick enough. Isolate from electric, remove lid and left panel (looking from the front). There is a plastic chamber bottom right of left side with two microswitches, either this is blocked or the hose that runs from it to the right and along the back of the kick panel and into the sump. Clear either or both (make sure all hoses are pushed true when repositioning). Check also that the spray arm holes are not blocked as the water flowing through them makes the arm spin, if they are block the pressure is reduced. Finally, remove the filters and look into the sump (if the back of the sump is 12 o clock) look at approx 2 oclock and you will see a hole that draws the water in to circulation pump (sometimes covered with an extra piece of plastic that can be clipped off) put you finger in there and see if you can feel any obstructions, if so remove. (you may find that cling wrap or a dishwasher tab packet has got in there and is stopping the motor running to full capacity.Hope this helps

You seem to have inadvertently put it into the test sequence. Try pressing the two reset button simultaneously (usually the reset buttons are 1st and 3rd from left each with a dot underneath, if this does not work, press the button between the two resets (2nd button) P1 should come on then press the right reset button. The unit should run through a test cycle for approx 20mins and eventually reset the module, this is indicated by 0 in the display. Please repost if further assistance required.

The outer user interface / touchpad stays in place. it can be removed only after removing the electronic machine relay board. The relay board is accessed from the inside of the door. You need to separate the inner door panel from the outer door panel. After removing the screws from around the inside of the door, the inner panel should lift up and away from the outer panel. The plastic cover should just clip on. you may need to use a flat screwdriver to release one or more of the clips. After that you'll be able to see any screws or clips holding the relay board in place.

We had this a while back - it was something to do with a blocked filter right inside, which meant the hot wasn't coming on. The repair man had to put in a new filter, which had been blocked possibly cos we had been doing quick washes with environmentally friendly detergent, and that solved the problem.

The inlet valve will be at the dishwasher end of the (hot) water inlet line. On this dishwasher I ~believe~ the inlet valve is near the rear of the unit. That means that you will need to pull the dishwasher out to get to it. Remove power from the dishwasher as soon as you can before messing with the unit.
Just past the connection of the supply hose and the connection on the dishwasher, there will be the valve (a solenoid valve with two wires coming out of it.) That is the little beast that has most likely failed.
Good Luck!

Mine's a bosch, same problem but started with E25 due to broken glass in the pump impeller, after struggling to remove it and then testing, it eventually moved to E15 as rightly so, no water was entering the machine due to the E25 code. The advice above is good, but take the device out first and tip the machine. This cured my faults without the need for a service call or spare parts.

check capacitor on motor. possibly not turning at correct speed

dishwasher has a bad water valve

Sounds to me like something is off time. Try opening it up and cleaning around all moving parts. Or maybe try resetting the whole machine.

It needs a thorough cleaning, the "guck" is your problem. Do not use liquid, it will make it worse. The "squares" are also detrimental. BOSCH engineered this machine to function best using loose powder. Remove all screens and use a calcium or lime scale remover with water very very hot, like from a coffee pot and run it empty a few times.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I'd say the issue is with the control...unfortunately.

The number"1" being displayed ( on models with the display like yours ) is actually an error code indicating a fault in the heating process.

Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described.
**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the serial number so you may want to contact Bosch to inquire if yours is affected.**

http://microsites.boschappliances.com/safetyrecall/dishwasher/

or
Bosch dishwasher hot-line 1-800-856-9226 1-800-856-9226
Before calling, have the model and serial numbers on hand. A live operator can be reached at the hot-line 24/hrs day.
Those not affected by the recall still can be a problem but easily fixed. As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch service tech. if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.




The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,

**Your control WILL differ in appearance, however the issue, the service and all the same info applies...except the part number. Yours will be # 431692**




**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it...the cover for your models control comes apart in a similar manner**

This is where and what to look for, except I`ve re-soldered this one already...




...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed, other-times it will eventually stop or display "1".


You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.

i.e.


**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control ( # 431692 @ approx. $150 - $250USD...$167.99 at "searspartsdirect.com" ) and I don`t pretend to speak on their behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**


If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)