Some oven has a door sensor, which prevents heating when door is open, evidently this is faulty, you need a service manual to identify and replace the part, If I find something I will post here.
there is more to this than meets the eye if youre oven takes a long time on fan setting it may be thermostat but more likely to be fan not turning at all or quickly enough the stat capillary is above oven element and if fan not blowing air away from capillary oven stat will shut oven temp down too soon if using conventional heat eg no fan make sure there are no full size trays directly on bottom of oven this will block heat from bottom element effectively giving only half the heat output.
I detected a similar problem following the sudden appearance of Err1 in the display. (Oven 4-5 years old, and the grill element failed when it was 3-4 years old). This indicated a temperature sensor problem. My local dealer came with his Thermocouple and confirmed an "under temperature" reading on the standard and baking settings. I agree that the fan setting is probably OK. He replaced the sensor. I monitored the situation for a while and was not happy because an under temperature could be quite dangerous when cooking certain foods, and also causes problems when baking bread.
The location of the oven sensor is also a problem because it is at the top right by the grill which also serves as the top heat source.
I had corresponded with Bosch about this and their response was, frankly, less than satisfactory. In the end I decided to call out their engineer (cost £85-ish) who wired my oven up to his computer. In the end he said that the oven was working as it should be (despite it taking a very long time to actually reach the target temperature of 200C.
In my view of I want 200C, then I should get 200C, not an approximation.
Interestingly the secret info (not in the manual) is that the temperature bar readout does not indicate that it has reached the actual temperature, but may be 90% of the temperature (so if you want 200C you get 180C.
An unsatisfactory solution is to get an oven temperature of the meat probe type and put that in the oven, then you will get a more accurate reading of the temperature. You would need one that goes above 200C (my first one only goes to 200 but I have found another that goes to 250C). Mine is by CDN model DTP482, any good cook shop should stock this.
More than likely the grill element has failed, and this could account for the oven not getting hot enough, as on some makes, the grill element is on at the same time as the oven element, so if the element has failed, then it will not be hot enough.
My advice would be fit a new grill element, and this hopefully will solve the problem of the oven not being hot enough.
Please rate my solution.
Thankyou.
For all Free appliance repair videos visit our VIDEO
TUTORIALS1, If the Bosch fan motorin the back of the oven is going round and
the temperature light is on (normally little red light), but there is no heat
then you will probably need a new oven element, these are generally very easy
to fit and readily available from our website these can be tested with a
electric meter. To gain access to the BOSCHelement you will
have to remove the back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see
the fan and element, if you
look closely at the elementyou will
probably see a small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however
there is no evidence of a fault but the elementis open circuit ie:
broken inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some
elements will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts
from the rear of the machine. 2, If your BOSCH fan
oven is getting warm but takes a very long time to cook or is burning the food
more on one side than the other, then you need to check if your oven fan motoris working you will
see the blade turning fast if it is ok. if the element is heating but the fan motoris not blowing the heat into the oven then
you need To replace the oven fan motoris a little more
expensive and a bit more involved. 3. If you have the opposite problem ie: your oven is over heating
and burning everything then you will need to replace your BOSCH oven thermostat 4, A quite common and easily overlooked answer is if your BOSCH oven is not working at all ie: no
heat and no fan then the chances are that someone has put the oven timerinto AUTO mode,
simply put oven back to MANUAL mode and all should be working again.
Hi!
The location of the thermal fuse in a Bosch single wall oven may vary depending on the model, but it is typically located on the back of the oven.
To locate the thermal fuse, follow these steps:
Turn off power to the oven: Before attempting any repairs, turn off the power to the oven by unplugging it or turning off the circuit breaker that supplies power to the oven.
Remove the back panel: Locate the screws or bolts that hold the back panel of the oven in place and remove them using a screwdriver or socket wrench. Carefully remove the back panel to access the components inside the oven.
Locate the thermal fuse: Look for a small, rectangular device with two wires attached to it. This is the thermal fuse. It may be located near the top or bottom of the back of the oven, depending on the model.
Check the thermal fuse for continuity: Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting and touch the probes to the two terminals of the thermal fuse. If the multimeter shows no continuity, the thermal fuse has blown and needs to be replaced.
Replace the thermal fuse: If the thermal fuse has blown, replace it with a new one of the same rating. Install the new fuse in the same location as the old one and reattach the back panel of the oven.
Test the oven: After replacing the thermal fuse and reassembling the oven, turn on power to the oven and test it to ensure that it is working properly.
If you are not comfortable working with electrical components or if you are unable to locate the thermal fuse in your Bosch single wall oven, it's recommended to seek the assistance of a qualified technician.
Kind regards
first thing I would do is check the cables that go to the clock, if they are OK then you likely have a faulty clock module which will need to be replaced.
Get some epoxy putty, grease the shaft with Vaseline, put a small pea size piece of epoxy rolled thinly and insert it into the knob where the flat part registers on the knob. Push the knob into place and leave it 24 hours to cure.
I use this.
Yes, the tube is fed in from behind or above. Some thermostat bodies have a small adjusting screw to allow you to calibrate if it is fairly close. The videos show it is a simple job.
