20 Most Recent Kohler - Toilet - One-piece - Santa Rosa - K3323-52 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Every seat Ive seen there was a plastic flap covering the bolts. Lift these flaps and you should see top of the bolts.

use a hack saw on the topside of the bolt(maybe just the blade), do not bind it as it may break the toilet. Hope this helped Tim

screws can be accessed thru tank..take a hacksaw blade only n cut from above (careful not to scratch where can be seen)..nuts will fall in tank..will have to reach for them thru tank.

had any work done recently, if so if u ve had occasion to have water shut off...when water is turned back on calcium or sediment gets loose and clogs flush valve (called a ballcock) or check the water level in the tank.

Remove the nut from the other bolt, turn off the water supply, disconnect the water supply from the toilet tank, remove all of the water from the tank and the bowl (as sponge is helpful) and lift the entire toilet off of the wall. This is a lot easier than it sounds. There are two types of toilet hold-down bolts. The bolt either has a head that is held in a keyhole shaped slot in the rim surrounding the sewer hole (in which case it comes out easily with your fingers), or it is the lag-screw type which is screwed into the wooden floor or subfloor - this type you can remove with vise-grips. The messiest part is the was ring. Clean this all up and replace it when you put the toilet back in. Google for how to replace a toilet wax ring for tips on that, but the important part is that the wax should be warm. Good luck, Al K

did you look under the tank?

The top of the pipe above the flush valve is threaded if you unscrew this you will be able to remove the flush valve and replace the gasket. I am assuming we are talking about the same here is a link that has all the parts:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/kohlertoiletparts-santarosa.html

It should be 1-3" away from the wall if waste line is 1 foot away from the wall. 7" of water tank and bowl.

No, you don't have to, but it makes for a nicer job. The wax ring must provide the complete seal to the sewer and must not leak at all. The use of caulking under the outer edge provides for a neat seal so that water or waste that gets on the floor does not collect under the edge of the toilet where it meets the floor. The caulking can also provide a bit of stability if the floor is uneven and the flange is a bit high, in which case the toilet might rock a little - which could compromise the seal of the wax ring. If a plumber installs a toilet, they will put the caulking down right away because they are confident in their installation of the wax ring and they need to move on. If the floor is a soft material (anything except stone or ceramic tile), then the home meowner might want to wait a couple of days before applying caulking to be certain that they don't conceal a leaking wax ring. If your toiled does rock a little, give the caulking a day to dry before using it again. On the other hand, if you do have a hard surface floor, it's a good idea to apply the caulk to the bottom of the toilet before you put the bowl down to give a bit of cushion where the porcelain bowl meets the hard floor.

your float on the toilet inside the bowl is possibly no good what you need to do is replace it by getting a standard kit at homedepot or lowes or any near by plumbing shop first shut off water behind bowl then unscrew hose that conects to bottom of the bowl then you will see one more nut take that off then replace with new going backwards with the same steps also you will need to empty bowl to do this by holding down handle while the water is shut off

Sounds like your flapper or flush gasket may need to be replaced. An easy way to check this is , the next time you hear it kick on, wait for it to stop and put a couple drops of food coloring in the tank and wait about twenty minutes and see if there is any color in the bowl. If there is then replace the worn flapper or washer. Hope this helps.

If your referring to the tank, take the lid off and make sure the small tube is connected from the filler valve to the top of the overflow tube. If that's connected properly, flush the toilet with the tank top off and locate the source of the spray. A small crack in the fill valve can cause a significant spray.

Hi,
Look inside of the tank the number will be stampes into the porcelin of the inside of the tank...

heatman101

Hi and thank you for using fixya:
Inside the tank there is a long standing tube that at the top end it has a little buoy that regulates how much water needs to be in the tank if you push it up you are going to see the water stops to run. So just bend it down a little about an inch
thanks

Rubber gasket is called the flapper,

Trace the leak point with some food dye. If its the closer seal it usually a $5-6 fix at your big box hardware store like homedepot. If it is the closer take the old one with you for reference.

We just recently installed two of these and love them.

LESSONS LEARNED:

This is a almost complete in box and needs to only install the tank and seat. It also came with a new wax ring and bolts.

What you also need is also at home depot they have the better flange repair kit, this is a round metal ring that goes over the existing plastic flange on the floor, put in as many screws as you can. On both we broke the plastic flange while installing the bolts. also the second one we also added a washer on the back side of the metal flange repair ring this made the connection even stronger.

The new bolts that hold the toilet to the floor will be to long and an need to be cut off. Don't just try to brake it off, we ran in to big trouble and is how we broke the flange.

Lastly go ahead and use Tub sealant and put a bead around the floor and base of toilet, this will keep it more secure and not allow any fluids to seep under the toilet and start smelling.


Hope this tip helps.

R/
David

Tighten the nut a quarter turn.  If that doesn't do it then shut off the water supply. Unscrew the nut and get you a new rubber washer to replace the old one.  If that doesn't do it, then go to the blue or orange box store and get you a new 12" stainless steel flex line for toilets.  Bring your old supply line in to correctly match up the size so you don't have to make 2 trips if you buy the wrong one.