RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I've run in to quite a few of those the last 2 or 3 seasons, so they sure aren't fun. The odd time I have got real lucky by putting threaded plug back in, and tightening it real tight, then taking it back out and the anode took a bite to plug again and came out. Last few I did, basically had to tap it in slightly, carefully, so as not to let is drop in tank and then not be able to retrieve it. If the wire (like coat hanger size) , is still sticking out where you can get a good grip with a small pair of vise grips, then try that, and try wiggling it slightly as you pull. Last one wouldn't come even then, so I took a small drift punch and tapped wire in center, back toward tank an inch or 2, which left me a hole approx 1/8", so I threaded in a long bigger diameter screw that took a good bite to the soft metal zinc anode, then tried pulling on that as well while wiggling. Still wouldn't come, so I tapped it inward slowly, making sure I still had good grip with vise grips on screw head. Kept going in a little, then pull out a little each time as well. This one actually had to go in until it cleared opening in tank, ( didn't want that, but that was the idea of long screw, so I still had a grip on it.) but I still had hold of screw head attached and it wiggled right back out through hole after that. Most times at worst it would only have to go in about 1/2", then a good pull and some wiggling would get it out, but last one was a close call. Hope this is of some help. If explanation not clear enough, feel free to reply and ask more questions. If /when you get it out, let me know how it goes will ya?

Sounds like the sensor is not working shutting down too early

No you need to replace that valve.

Open following link for Atwood troubleshoot resources to identify product and look at manual with parts lists.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Atwood-water-heater-resources.html

Add a comment to this thread saying how you solved problem to help others who have same issue

ANOTHER FACTORY BLUNDER. UR RV SERVICE TECH SHOULD HAVE CAUGHT THIS WHEN THEY SOLD THE TRAILER TO YOU. UR GOING TO HAVE TO FIND ANOTHER POWER SOURCE FOR THE LP DETECTOR. NORMALLY IT CONNECTS TO THE WATER PUMP WIRE OR THE HOT WIRE TO THE MONITOR PANEL.

You cn either drill it out (make sure the drill is not too big to damage the threads) and then breakit off or drill 3-4 holes in line using a 3mm drill to create a slot so a flat screwdriver can be inserted and used to unscrew it.

Get a service Manual!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Test voltage at slip on lead to igniter from power source. If you have Voltage @ lead within Spec values the igniter is bad and must be replaced

Sounds like it may be a dirty flame sensor. It can be gently cleaned with steel wool or scotch bright pad (not emery or sand paper). Its a small rod that sits in the flame. I believe it is part of the spark ignition assembly on your model. Only open your burner compartment though if your are certain you have the skills (and perhaps gaskets etc) to reassemble it safely. God bless

if you haven't already ,check thermostat, check inline fuse, check ground wire.

igniter coil could be bad.it creates a high voltage spark across the electrode. be sure electrode is set to specs.

Model # please? Does it spark outside when first turned on?

THERE SHOULD BE A RESET BUTTON ON THE UNIT,YOU COULD TRY THAT OR GO TO ATWOOD.COM FOR SCHEMATICS,CHECK FOR MODEL #S FOR THAT YEAR .THESE UNITS HAVE NOT CHANGED MUCH IN MANY YEARS .IF IT DOES NOT WANT TO LIGHT ,LOOK IN THE TUBE OF THE UNIT FOR DIRT DOBBERS THAT MAY CONSTRICT THE FLOW OF GAS.THE RESET IS USUALLY BLACK AND NOT VERY VISIBLE,GOOD LUCK,HOPE IT MAY HELP

If its for an rv water heater as stated above ( Atwood) any rv dealer should stock them.

If you need instructions on current set-up you have please describe it as best you can. If your looking for an easy set-up and can get to lines fairly easy, just buy a 1/2" pipe nipple and remove water line fittings from tank and join them together . That's a by-pass.

Take a multimeter or 12 volt test light and probe terminals on Therm & ECO for 12 VDC power while running. When it shuts down and wateris not hot, test for voltage again at those terminals, If you have 12 volts to side of therm that goes to ECO beside it, then therm is ok, but then check opposite side of ECO as well. If power on one side of ECO, but not the other, the ECO is faulty. Simply walk across with probe testing for voltage when you find no power at one terminal but not the other, it's faulty, replace it.

Any RV dealer should have them in stock.

Do you see the parts labelled Therm and ECO behind cover outside?

There are various ways of by-passing the water heater. If your starting from scratch, can advise, but if you have an existing that has you confused, please describe what you have the best you can and hopefully I can solve your problem. It can be as simple as removing the 2 fittings from tank and join them together with a pipe nipple of same size, usually 1/2". That's a simple by-pass solution. After winter, disconnect from nipple and install back on water heater fittings where they were removed from.

Are you 100% sure that new ECO & Thermostat were installed properly, and all surfaces where they make contact on tank are clean? If all is correct there, the thermostat should first cut out the power, then the ECO should thermostat fail. be sure you didn't mix the 2 up when installing them. ECO has higher cut out temperature. Only other thing to consider is pressure in the system may be higher than normal.

Copy following link for possible resources:http://waterheatertimer.org/Atwood-water-heater-resources.htmlCall service center.Replace heater.Geneh If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7