Top 20 Husqvarna Craftsman 36cc, 16 In. Gas Chain Saw - Page 5 Questions & Answers

have you looked at the filter in the tank? get a wire hook fish around in the tank it should be on thend of a fuel line inside the tank

The carb uses the pulses from the crankcase to actuate a diaphram in the carb as the fuel pump.If you strip the carb make sure there are no perforations/cracks etc. on these diaphrams and check too that the valve flaps are OK.if not fit a carb kit.

Also check that the pipe or channel from the carb to crankcase is OK.

If all this is correct you can simply put your hand behind the carb or inlet to check for vacuum if not there you have probably blown a crank seal(but unlikely)and you will have to replace them.

Hope this helps,and please come back if you need any further assistance.

Take the Plug out of the saw and read the part number.

magneto tested for spark with no positive result.

40:1

Ladder and chainsaw seems risky if your asking the question. A heavy boar between two ladders would be a safer way to get you to the proper height.

Go to a home improvement store and buy a new chain, they are cheap!

possibly the key is cut off in the flywheel

Hi Thomas, you can find bar oil for the chain at just about any hardware store. Just tell them you need chainsaw bar oil. The oil that mixes with the gasoline is called 2- cycle mix. They will have that also. You can find the 2- cycle mix at a lot of gas stations too but a lot of guys caution not to use the 2 - cycle mix that is made for outboard motors. . Hope that answered your questions.

The bar and chain are running without oil. Take the side cover off where the chain is driven from and remove the bar and chain. Use compressed air to blow all debris from the area. Start the engine and watch for oil coming out of a small port near the clutch assembly. If oil passes (good!), then clean ( at the drive end of the bar) the two smaller holes and their passages into the track which the chain runs in. They are likely to be filled with sawdust and other debris. Clean the entire chain track around the whole bar. Use engine oil in the two small holes at the bar tip to lubricate the sprocket bearing. Back off the chain adjuster screw somewhat and reassemble everything--put the bar on first and then work the chain on, then the side cover--work the bar fore and aft to allow the small tang of the adjuster to drop into it's hole at the bar rear. Make sure that the cutting side of the teeth are pointing toward the engine on the bar bottom. With the cover on and mounting nuts slightly loose, adjust the chain tightness so that the chain doesn't droop away from the bar bottom, but still allows the chain to be moved by hand--remember to lightly oil the chain first with engine oil. Tighten the bar mounting nut(s) and recheck the chain for droop. Make sure that you have bar oil in the tank, then start the engine and hold the bar tip near a piece of paper or cardboard. After running for a little while, the tip should throw off a very thin line of oil. Next, if you have a vise, put the bar center into the vise so that the chain is free to turn. At this point you need to file each tooth to sharpness at 30 degrees from perpendicular to the bar and 10 degrees below chain horizontal. Make sure you use the correct size file for your chain. Work your way through one side, then work the other side--be consistent with cutting angles during filing as uneven filing will result in the chain trying to cut at unintended angles.
If no oil came out of the engine when running the bar-off test, make sure there is ample oil in the tank, then you have either a plugged inlet filter in the tank, tubing kink/breakage, or a defective oil pump. You must be sure that oil is being pumped from the chain drive area before putting things together. Hope this helps!

It's your ignition, which you can take that stuff apart on the left hand side of the saw under the recoil. I have 2 of these, & you can get the parts. Maybe its just the magneto gap adjustment, which is like a business card or newspaper width gap. I would check that first. Hope this helps you, Rick

Use regular bar oil from Sears, home centers, saw dealers. No manuals.

If the muffler is clogged or damaged there will be too much back pressure for the engin to run. Check for free flow. Also, check the intake air filter to make sure it is clean so there is amaple air flow. Lastly, is there a safety shutoff related to the muffler that is being activated impropperly?

Firmly attach the anchor chain to the TrollAnkle and fully submerge for 10 minutes. If you really have a problem take it to a Husqvarna dealer and resubmit your question with the correct terminology. Lou

I had the same problem. Took the cap to Sears Parts Center and spoke to manager, who acknowledged there's a problem. He gave me a new cap, which is fine. Orig part number: 530047192, new part number 577858501.FAST FORWARD 5 years. Over time, the new cap got tighter and tighter. I thought I had tossed out the old cap, but found it in the shed. Tried it just for kicks. Apparently they shrink back to original size when not used for a while. So now, every time I gas up, I switch caps. Problem solved

Sounds like you have a plug between the tank and the carb. I would change the hose between the two and clean the tank as well as the carb.

First off, take off the bar and chain, clean up the grooves and the small oiling holes in the bar. Then without the bar on, start the saw, see if oil comes out of the oiling hole, if not, dump the oil out of the saw, put some gas in, rinse out well, spray brake cleaner works well, too. Refill with oil and see if its oiling yet, make sure to check if it has an adjustable oiler, open it up a bit if need be. Use only bar and chain oil, not car oil!

Silly question, But have y7ou checked the battery polarity in the remotes? If correct. does the Led come on when you press the buttons? If not, check the battery contacts.

My guess is the tube has come loose inside.

Chain is on backwards or very dull.