If you must choke it for it to run it is running lean. Continued operation in a lean condition will ruin it. If you did nothing to the carburetor adjustments, are using a fresh (1.5 months or less) fuel mix with the same fuel/oil ratio it was last tuned with, (I recommend 50:1 = 1 gal premium fuel to 2.6 oz quality 2-cycle engine oil), are operating at the same elevation, and the air filter is clean, there is a reason your saw is acting up. Clean the spark arrestor screen. Most often it is a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel filter on the free end of a hose in fuel tank (manufacturer recommends an annual replacement). Check all fuel delivery lines especially at fittings and bends for cracks and holes. It can also be an air leak, inspect for a loose or defective carburetor manifold or loose carburetor. If those are good then the likely cause is internal parts of the carburetor are dirty or have failed. HTH
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou A local saw shop Husky or Stihl (not Jerry's lawn mower) will usually repair this for $20-40. It might be worth a call or 2. If repaired and tuned ask what fuel/oil mixture they used and affix a label near the fuel filler cap.
"H" and "L" start with 1.5 CCW from lightly seated.
From a "357XP/359 Workshop Manual". There is no recommended initial "T" setting. (from manual) "The idling speed is correctly set when the engine runs smoothly in all positions and there is a clear margin to the speed at which the chain starts to move".
From initial this is the best advice I have found. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. HTH Lou
Your saw is a Poulan. Judging by your model my best guess is a PP3516* or PP3816*. * = some suffix.
A little experimentation may prove usefull here: Poulan.com http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html The dash number of your serial number is the type (this may not be true for Craftsman). Good Luck.
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH Lou
Your saw is a Poulan. Try converting the cc to a model number. A 2.2cc Craftsman is often a Poulan model 2200. go to this link and find something that appears the same under (POULAN-WEED-EATER). http://www.ordertree.com/cms/illustrated-parts-list/9788.html
The IPL will help. Pay attention to the year there is a different area for older saws.
For a current saw Craftsman should have something available.
rule of thumb is 1 torn out from closed will get you started. then run at high speed and richen the H screw till you hear it just starting to bogg down every few seconds. Then let off the throttle and adjust the L screw till it runs smooth the richen it a quarter turn. Thats the old fashioned way I have been using for 40 years
Use a quality 2 cycle oil and mix it to the OIL supplier's recommended ratio. Today I use Stihl 2 cycle oil mixed @ 50:1 in a Pioneer that I purchased new in 1980. There are no gouges or scratches on the piston or cylinder and I have no carbon build up on the piston top. The manual (on stone tablets) recommends 24:1. Over the years the mixture has leaned from 24:1 (Saw Recommendation) to 28:1 (Lawn boy mower recommendation) to 32:1 (Oil provider 8oz/2gal - used for many years) and finally the last 5 (±) years 50:1 (Stihl 2.6oz/1gal)
Most gas in the US of A contains ethanol; not good with chainsaws. Mix what you expect to use within a few months. Anything over 6 months old use up in a 4 cycle engine. HTH Lou
some times this can be something easy sometimes not just follow a few simple steps:
Have you replaced the bar and chain recently?
#1 Remove bar and chain and blow out all sawdust esp around your bar studs dont get to close with the air as you can sometimes pop seals...
Start your saw see if oil comes out around bar studs if so the oil holes in your cutter bar may be blocked...
#2 If that doesnt work remove your oil filler cap and use a piece of wire with a bend on the end to remove your oil filter remove it from oil line and clean in fuel and blow out with compressed air replace on hose and place back into tank and try start chain saw again...
if that doesnt work then take it in to small engine repair shop as the pump may be blocked or unservicable and need replacing
Check the condition of the fuel line and filter in the tank and to the carb and primer.Today gas and time will soften them allowing them to become blocked or leak.Replace if needed.
this can be caused by sevral things inside the pull cord hub assembly. examples: Dirty inside & needs taken apart & cleaned. something logged inside, plastic spool tabs broke, spring/s broke, levers broke or any of these items could just be to worn. replacement parts should be available.
yes the EPA has mandated you be trained how to properly adjust the new carbs, Any qualified Husqvarna dealere would be happy to sell you the tool and show you how.
turn them both in , gently, till they bottom out and then back them out 1 1/2 turns. This will get you real close and then fine tune them from there. hope this helps.
1. The kickback brake, if equipped, was triggered to stop the chain. 2. The chain is jammed with saw dust/debris (it doesn't take much) 3. the bar sprocket is damaged. 4. The chain guide teeth are damaged and not sliding through the bar guide groove smoothly 5. The chain is adjusted too tightly. 6. You are out of bar oil and friction has stopped it/damaged the bar and/or chain 7. The motor sprocket clutch is damaged.
Recoil Spring Rewind I invert and secure the housing and rewind the spring large coil to small (need eye protection, both hands and no women around work area!). I'm right handed so I tension the spring enough to insert it inside the previous coil while holding what has already been installed with my left about 180° from my right hand. The tension will hold the spring in the housing once completely inserted. Then bend slightly the inner most part to engage the starter spool. It will require about 2 turns of pretension for it to retract properly. HTH Lou
