Turn both jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then back each out CCW 1-1/2 turns. This is a basic setting and should allow the engine to start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Turn the H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up, but still 4-strokes. Correct adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes running free, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle so that the engine idles fairly well, but allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
Go to Searspartsdirect.com and enter the complete Sears model number minus the decimal point. That should bring you to a series of replaceable parts diagrams plus part numbers. If the bolt is not listed as a separate part, then likely it is part of the fuel tank assembly. Hope this helps!
the fuel pickup is just a filter on a very flexible rubber pipe. it will lie any way it can in the tank to **** the fuel. thats how the saw can work upside down without stalling.
First check is for spark at the plug when it won't fire--it should be blue and snappy with a fresh plug set for 0.020" gap. If not, then remove the flywheel side cover, turn the flywheel magnets to underneath the ignition module. Use a thin business card for a gap gauge and insert it into the space between the magnets and the module poles--loosen the screws holding the module to allow the module to stick to the magnets, then re-tighten the screws. Recheck for spark. If now ok, try to start the engine. If this made no difference, then replace the ignition module and use the same install as before. If you originally got good spark, place little fuel mix in the plug hole and retry start--it should at least pop several times. If so, check the fuel filter, air filter and muffler for plugging. Check the condition of all fuel lines. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are all tight. Finally, the carburetor lower diaphragm may be hard or cracked. Make sure the saw body is not getting overly hot-- it may need cleaning with compressed air to recover proper cooling. Hope some of this helps!
The chain brake should have been released before removing the cover. You will have to release it with a large flat-blade screwdriver in the connector that runs the brake from the control handle. Hope this helps!
Try turning the "L" needle 1/8 CCW If no better try 3/16 CW. The "L" is primarily smoothness at idle and acceleration. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Take out the plug, earth the plug to the side of the engine with insulated pliers (otherwisw you will get a shock) switch the on switch on and give it a pull - Look for a strong blue spark from the plug. If it is not the ignision it is the fuel supply. They are a good saw. Good luck!
We are prohibited from contacting you directly. Oil System Plugged: 1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. • Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. • Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). • Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). • If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2. 2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. • Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. • If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). • Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. 3. If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL for the location). The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system, it is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=358350461&productCategoryId=1503220&brandId=0247&brandDescription=CRAFTSMAN&modelName=CHAINSAW&diagramPageId=00001&componentDescription=CHASSIS%20BAR%20CHAIN&documentId=P0205138&blt=06
It appears to have an outboard clutch, this will be helpful;
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make certain the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
Workshop Manual for a Husky 357XP/359 (2006 - I will wager yours is similar) follows: The Husky workshop manual on Appendix A (USA, this probably does not apply to your vintage saw) says "H" 3/4 turn CCW from lightly seated. "L" 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated. Page 36 (every other nation on earth) 1 turn CCW from lightly seated for both the "H & L" needles. There is no recommended initial "T" setting. (from manual) "The idling speed is correctly set when the engine runs smoothly in all positions and there is a clear margin to the speed at which the chain starts to move". These are initial settings and the saw needs to be adjusted for performance. Start with a clean air filter and a fresh fuel mix. I could not find an OM for a 1994, a 1995 says mix @ 50:1 per Husky (1 gallon of premium fuel to 2.6 ounces of quality 2-cycle oil).
This explains performance carburetor adjustment better than I can: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too. Good Luck. HTH. Lou
Is it idling alright? It sounds like you need to adjust your jets. Try turning them all the way in until they seat lightly, then come back out with them 1.5- 2 turns, that is usually a good starting point, then you can adjust and tweak from there until you get it where you want it.
Hello Sue; Has it ever been through a saw shop for tune up (at a good shop $40±, it includes some cleaning, new plug, new fuel filter, pressure/vacuum testing, carburetor adjustment, etc.)?
The coil is under the starter cover. You might check the gap with a business or index card.
Have you tried a new plug? much cheaper than a coil. Lou
I make no guarantee of the applicability of this research. I recommend you contact "CheapChainsawParts.com" (or 1 (800) 438-0668) to verify this application.
Methodology to arrive at the bow part number "HQ-100"
An Oregon bar for a Husky 455 is mount/oiler configuration "095" ( the last part of any Oregon replacement bar).
A Oregon bar for a Husky 55 is also mount/oiler configuration "095".
You can check my Oregon research here: Oregon Bar & Chain Selector http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
This bow http://www.cheapchainsawparts.com/cmp_HQ-100_part.html
is the replacement bow for a Husky 55; it should also fit a Husky 455. I make no affirmation there are no modifications required, applicability of this application, or even that it will fit.
Does the chain continue spinning? If no (and gasoline) bad clutch. If yes I suspect the bar and chain are binding (cutting in an arch). That is often caused by a worn bar or improperly sharpened chain. Post back (below) if the latter and I will help with that too. Post back with the model number (358.#####) and I will help with clutch replacement.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
First off Husqvarna does not make Craftsman chainsaws. Chainsaws are very high compression usually 125 to 150 lbs. pulling the rope slowly will make it very hard to pull. Short fast pulls are best, this allow the flywheel to build momentum to get it past the compression portion of the piston trvavel.
