20 Most Recent Husqvarna Craftsman 36cc, 16 In. Gas Chain Saw - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Likely there is air trapped in the system. Try raising drive wheels (safely) off the ground and operating forwards backwards. With minimal load on the hydo pump and motor, the air should purge.

The flywheel key has likely sheared. Contemporary utility 2-cycle flywheel keys are integrated into the flywheel. A new flywheel will be likely be required.

Question edited for clarity and typo botton to bottom. It should be at the top of the stroke. It is called TDC or Top Dead Centre and is then the spark ignites the fuel and air to force the rotation onwards in the same rotation as travel.

The problem is that the engine is a funny size at 40cc. If it was 50cc, you could get away with motorcycle rings. The normal way to size rings is by measuring the bore with an inside micrometer across left to right and then again front to back. The front to back measurement is often a little more worn. Then you order rings by diameter and thickness, Any local engineering company can do this and supply you with generic rings. There is a different model here with rings at $25 but Jack's Small Engines is $57. My advice is get the OEM ones. You will also need to hone the bore lightly to dull the polish. Oil the new rings with 2 stroke oil when fitting them. https://www.google.com/search?q=husqvarna+145bt+piston+rings+size ..

Weak spark or no spark or spark at wrong time. Do not use a neon type spark tester as it will indicate spark when it is insufficient. Use an inline gap type tester.

To test for spark, compression, and timming, drain all the fuel, choke off and give the the starter several pulls. If the plug is wet, leave plug out and give it several pulls, reinstall plug and give it several pulls, then check plug. Repeat until all residual fuel is gone and plug remains dry.

Now that all fuel is gone you can use an alternative fuel, i.e. starter fluid, that won't flood the engine.

Air filter removed, hold throttle open and spray a 1 second burst directly down the carburetor throat, release throttle. Leave air filter off and promptly attempt to start, several pulls. If no fire then it's likely a spark or compression issue, not the carburetor.

If it fires and runs for a few seconds, then timing, compression, and spark are OK and carburetor remains suspect.

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Check the deck ant--sway bar is in the correct location. See attach.

Owners manual available no fee download at
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/

The symptoms are a operator not in seat.

The seat switch requires a normally closed switch that opens when seat occupied. See attach.

I answered this yesterday didn't I? I looks like someone deleted my answer because this is still on the main page even though it has been answered by me. It is a shame because the other Answer had diagrams and 3 videos.https://www.google.com/search?q=Husqvarna+model+21LCN+String+Trimmer.+Fuel+line+diagram

No model number provided, but you can modify the search query to refine it. All questions need 'year make model (what it is)'. https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+husqvarna+zero+turn+mower+ignition+wiring+diagram ..

Did you have the problem before replacing the filter and lines? You may have a fuel blockage inside the tank. Make sure you have a good gas flow to the carb. Dirt or other material may be in the causing the carb float to let too much fuel in. A bad air filter will cause the carb to run rich. Possible a bad spark plug or the spark is weak to the plug.

Any debris on top of the deck e.g. thumb sized mulch, driveway stones, pencil diameter sticks or larger. All may cut and snap a belt if they get wedged between the belt and any of the pulleys.

Any hard foreign object of the size that will jamb into a pulley v groove.

Wiring diagram is in the parts list, a no fee download from the Husqvarna web site. See following URL

https://www.husqvarna.com/us/search-results/?groups=DOCUMENTS&q=Yt46ls

The start solenoid control side winding has two conductors, WHT and BLK. BLK is the return to battery negative. WHT is fed fused battery positive from the ignition switch through the PTO switch thru Brake switch.

Suggest you use the volt meter referenced directly to the battery negative post or clamp. Probe the ignition switch "S" contact WHT wire. With switch in START position the S contact must be battery positive which in turn means the WHT wire must be batt pos. Then follow the WHT wires to/thru the PTO switch, to/thru Brake switch, to solenoid.

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The ignition module air gap to flywheel magnet is 0.010 inches (0,3mm). If you dont have a brass feeler gauge use a single layer of electrical tape (0.007 in.) over flywheel magnet.

Sparkplug gap is 0.020 inches (0,5mm).

To test spark remove sparkplug for easier pull. Hold metal threads of plug against engine metal. Give a sharp pull on the starter rope.

If no spark, disconnect kill wire at the ignition module and make another pull.

If still no spark move plug to mounting screw of ignition module.

If still no spark, measure resistance of ignition module secondary winding (sparkplug wire to ignition module metal armature).Typical 5k to 8k ohms or more.

Comment below for further assistance.

The clutch has a two wire flying lead. For the clutch to remain powered after disconnecting the cable at the clutch (blue/black) implies someone has modified the original factory wiring. See attachment.

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Disconnect the kill wire at the ignition module (coil). If you then have spark, then likely the kill wire is shorted to metal somewhere along its length.

Owners manual contains diagrams of belt routing.https://www.manualslib.com/products/Ariens-936060-5887211.htmlSee if this manual looks right. Comment for further assistance.

There isn't that much too it. There is a full parts schematic here. https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/husqvarna/trimmer/223-l-2006-01/fuel-tank

I know this works with my stihl equipment.....a couple of blowers and a saw that following this video they start right up....worth a try! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AgP0pVxBYw Best to you

Initial settings for high and low air fuel mixture screws are 1 turn out. The initial settings should allow the saw to run.

You may need to adjust the idle speed screw to increase idle speed just enough to keep it running to make the low a/f mixture adjustment. Then lower idle speed and readjust low a/f.

Once you have the low a/f set, adjust the high a/f. I usually remove the chain and clamp the saw bar into a vice. That makes it easier and safe. The low adjustment affects the high so anytime you change low you need to follow with another high adjust.


The folliwing is from the manual.

!!!
• Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be clean and the cylinder cowling fitted. Adjusting the carburettor while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a leaner mixture when the filter is finally cleaned. This can give rise to serious engine damage.
• Carefully turn the L and H-jets clockwise to the bottom. Now turn the jets one turn anti-clockwise.
!!!

You want to error on the rich side. If you run it excessive lean, the piston temperature may rise high enough to burn a hole in the piston and/or score the cylinder wall. Always use fresh fuel/mix. If you can't get non ethanol fuel, be sure to use containers that 100% seal to prevent the ethanol from absorbing water directly from the air.

If you can't release the switch from the panel you may need to remove the four mounting screws along the edge of the panel. See attached.