I have a model 435 Husky that had the same hard-to-start problem--warranty service replaced the carburetor and it seems to work ok now. The chain that continues to turn can be fixed by turning the idle-speed screw (not the H or L jet screws) CCW a small amount until it can be accelerated then dropped back to idle to quit driving the chain. Hope this helps!
I cannot give you a definite answer without seeing the bar. I suspect that when shipped by Husqvarna it had a 0.325 pitch, sprocket nose bar. There are no guarantees it had that configuration when sold. The OM (link below) references a bar nose sprocket. If the bar was replaced it may be a solid nose bar. The IPL does not display any bars. http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2008/HOUS2008_1151081-95.pdf
Page 5 item 19
Read your manual very carefully. I think it is flooded. Read line 3 (cold and warm). read them again. Read 5 in your manual. Most overlook the attempt to start , continue with the choke closed and the saw floods. You have an additional visual indicator, watch the decompression valve, when cold; once it pops turn off the choke. The warm procedure is very close to mine. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
If it still will not start return it for a replacement or your money back. Anything you do may render any warranty invalid.
Did you purchase this in a big box store? What is your elevation? All new saws regardless of maker are set to run extremely lean to meet EPA mandated air quality standards. They are also fitted with a device to restrict richening the carburetor beyond initial factory settings this too required by the EPA. Most big box stores put them on the shelf and sell them to the consumer with no thought of how elevation may impact saw performance or longevity. Homeowners usually are not concerned about changes in the saws performance until it quits operating. This combination results in many destroyed saws and homeowner saws of most brands being called trash! Find a local chainsaw seller/mechanic. If they pull a saw off the shelf and hand it to you without making some adjustment or minimally ensuring it will run hand it back and leave. You can get this service at a big box store cheaper. Find a different seller/mechanic and try again. A good dealer will help you arrive at a saw that will meet your needs. He will ensure it runs properly and you have an understanding of how to properly operate it. Should a problem arise you have somewhere to go and if you were courteous with your dealer someone in your corner helping you rectify your problem.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
The manual may not be clear, read warm line 3 below, read it again. The 450 manual I read says something similar under warm start. Are you opening the choke after turning on the ignition? Before pulling the starter rope? Flooding is the most common hard start problem with 2-cycle engines. If you are opening the choke I recommend you contact Husqvarna for guidance. They will likely send you to a neighborhood dealer, gratis. HusqvarnaUSA.com/ContactUs http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/ Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
The most common causes are the chain is to tight or the chain brake is triggered.
Page 15 discusses how to check oiler operation and page 17 discusses both chain tension and the chain brake. You cannot check the oiler if the chain cannot rotate. (you provided no serial number, this may not be your saw Feb-2008) http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2008/HOUS2008_1151081-96.pdf
If this is not the problem or you have additional questions please reply below. I will get back to you.
If I chose the incrorrect manual you can download the right one here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week HTH Lou
Sounds like the carb needs cleaned or it could just be the air filter. Remove the air filter soak it in gasoline. While that is happening spray the hell out of the carb with carb and choke cleaner. If that doesnt work take it to a small engines mechanic and they will probably have to rebuild the carb.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.
I read the the Technical Data for a 2008 - 450 page 39 and your oiler is not adjustable. You can down load an Operator's Manual and IPL here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
It has an outbaord clutch, illustrated on the IPL, detail B. The oil pump and worm gear are behind the clutch. This will help with clutch removal: R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
It is not as difficult as it appears. Good Luck Lou
Pages 17 & 18 should help answer your question. http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2008/HOUS2008_1151081-96.pdf(This may not be your saw)
Loosen the tension adjuster, remove the clutch cover, (engine to left) pull the bar off the adjustment pin then push it left against the clutch cover bolt. Remove the chain from the chain groove, remove the bar, the chain can now be removed.
You can download the correct Operator's Manual and IPL here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week HTH Lou
