Check for cracks or holes in the fuel line. Also, there is a filter inside the tank. Make sure that it is clean. Too much oil in the fuel can cause this as well.
You will need to get the brake off....it can be done but there is a lot of tension there so be careful...I had a friend do the same thing and we used a screwdriver to pop it back to off.
Release the chain brake and remove the bar and chain. Clean the engine side case where the bar fits to, then start the engine and observe whether oil oozes out of the port. If ok, clean the small oil passages in the drive end of the bar--they run from the large holes out to the chain groove an each edge. Check the oiling by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Look for an adjustment screw head set into the rear-underside of the case near the chain return area. Turn CW to decrease oil volume. Hope this helps!
Try to turn the chain by hand--if moves freely, the clutch assembly under the cover may be overly oiled. Remove the bar and chain, then wash the clutch drum and shoes with carburetor spray cleaner. Make sure the chain brake is not set. Hope this helps!
Release the chain tension adjuster and push the bar inward to make sure it moves. This is an auto-set tension adjustment and should set itself so that the chain can be be moved by hand. The chain oil on the bar may have gelled enough to prevent chain movement. A spray of WD-40 around the chain perrimeter would probably loosen the chain as well. Hope this helps!
I think you went too far, you should have opened up the high speed jet, it would have revved up and ran at high speed no problem, but since you rebuilt it, it should be good to go. The jets are very sensitive, just a 1/4 turn at a time should be enough. If it doesn't do anything after a few turns, turn it back to where it was, count the turns, then start to close it down 1/4 turn at a time, if it still doesn't run, put the jets back to factory settings, 1 1/4 turns out each should get you started, then fine tune from there,did you clean those jets when you had the carb apart? Check it out, you can get those things out without removing the carb. Make sure they are clean, if they have holes in them, make sure they are clear. Hope this helps.
There is an oil-volume adjustment screw located near the chain return area either in back, or just under the case. Turn it CCW to increase volume. Hope this helps!
Those saws are very finicky. First shake the saw very vigorously, as the saw running dry mayy have sucked dirt to the intake screen. Clean the plug and check gap. Prime, choke and pull till it starts. your plug may be foulled, this happens alot when a saw leans out from running out of fuel. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c
Suspect that the chain hit a rock or pocket of dirt which will dull the chain in a heartbeat plus pull debris into the chain groove area. Remove the bar and chain and clean everything thoroughly including the chain and bar groove. Inspect the chain teeth carefully looking for burned teeth and other physical damage. If badly damaged, suggest replacing the chain. It's not likely that the bar sliding surfaces have been severely damaged. When you have everything back together and the chain adjusted, start the saw and run the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil in a few moments. There should be an oil volume adjustment screw on the back or just under the same area near the chain return. Turn the screw CCW to increase flow. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air filter, and muffler for plugging. Inspect the fuel lines for decay or damage. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight including the carburetor to cylinder mountings. If still not running properly, service the carburetor and rekit if the diaphragm in the lower chamber is hard or cracked. Also, inspect the fuel metering valve that the diaphragm controls. If the tip of the needle is damaged, replace it. Remove the spark plug and check for snappy, blue spark when the saw will not start. Hope this helps!
Suggest that you don't use the carburetor cleaner as it disturbs the fuel mix ratio. Use it only with 4-stroke engines. 2-stroke engines depend on the correct quantity and quality of oil mixed with the fuel for engine lubrication--if starved for oil, it will quickly ruin the cylinder wall, piston skirt, and rings. Remove the muffler and spark plug--inspect the cylinder and piston skirt/rings for any severe scoring while pulling the engine through slowly. If ok, check the muffler for plugging while it is off, and check the air cleaner for plugging as well. You didn't state completely what your problem was--help. Hope this helps1
The owner's manual should disclose the adjustment detail. Set it so that the bar tip throws off a thin line of oil onto a piece of cardboard after a few moments of running at speed. Good luck!
Remove the spark plug, attach the wire and lay the shell on engine metal. Pull through--any spark? If nothing, take the machine back to the dealer for warranty service or exchange. You seem to have followed all the procedures necessary. Hope this helps!
Oil System Plugged: 1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. • Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. • Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). • Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). • If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2. 2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. • Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. • If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). • Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. 3. If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL for the location).
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system and it is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarificationhttp://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/) 15 = week produced – March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make certain the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
You may have a faulty blade (the bit the chain runs on) some wear quickly and badly.when set up incorrectly Also they need to be positioned correctly to stop the chain coming off Make sure when applying that you push the blade upwards when you tighten,then adjust the tension screw to complete the setup. please rate my help++++Thanks for using FIXYA
