assuming you have the chain adjuster in the bar adjuster hole. This and the bar nuts will normally keep the bar in place and the chain adjusted. However if your drive sprocket on your saw is worn (deep grooves where the chain rides on the sprocket) it will cause the chain to try and climb over one tooth pulling the bar toward the saw loosening the chain. This can also happen if you put a worn chain on a new sprocket. In the end this overtight or loose condition will lead to failure of your sprocket nose bar. One other way can be the chain, the bar and the sprocket are not all the same pitch.
Possibly, but it is more likly that you have sharpened the cutters one side shorter than the other, measure the cutters, and file them so as they are all the same lenght.
Fuel gets to the carb via the fuel filter in the tank, the fuel hose up to the carb, and the impulse from the engine making the pump diaphram in the carb pulse and pump fuel, so start by replacing the fuel filter in the fuel tank, then check the fuel hose for signs of leaks, the impulse from the engine is fed through a pipe in the carb support block, you will need to remove the carb and block to inspect this, there is also a filter within the carb itself, this is sited under the pump housing of the carb ( alloy cover held with a single screw )
Sounds like the clutch is still grabing. Easy solution is to apply the chain brake at idle to stop the chain turning. Try adjusting the L screw for a smoother idle.
If this is the tooless system, flip open the wing on the bar cover securing nut, slacken off one turn, now use the knurled wheel in the cove to slacken, or tighten the chain, if it has two 13mm bar nuts, slacken them off one turn each, then use a flat blade screw driver through the side cover, betwwen the bar nuts to adjust the chain, the screw is quite small so clean away the saw dust to locate it.
Completely loosen the chain tensioner. When looking at the saw from the sprocket side(bar to the right) the chain WILL travel clockwise. Fit the chain on the bar.(ensure that the chain travels in collation with the sprocket at the end of the bar if equipped). When looking at the saw from the sprocket side(bar to the right) the chain WILL travel clockwise. With the chain still in the bar, fit the 5 or so links in the sprocket on the powerhead, engage the bar with the bar nuts, then lastly engage the chain in the tensioner. Place the sprocket cover and nuts. Tighten nuts then loosen about .5 turn. Adjust chain tensioner. Retighten nuts. See that tightening the nuts made your chain tighter, loosen nuts readjust chain, tighten nuts. With gloves on and the chain brake disengaged please ensure the chain travels around the bar. Put on your chaps and start cutting.
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor: Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor. Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces. That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor. Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank. Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws. When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference. Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb. Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting. If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank. The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages. Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable. Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages. Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages. Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from. When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws. But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position. Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper. That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started. Note: The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm. That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end. Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation. The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position. Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem. Please take time to rate me thumbs up
It depends on the bar/chain combination you have, if you clean the guide bar the pitch of the chain will be stamped into it, .325 or .375 (3/8) it will also have the gauge of the bar, 050 or 058, and the number of drive links in the chain.
There will always be an amount of bar oil leakage when the saw is not in use, this is due to leakage through the tank breather, and oil caught up in areas of the saw which drain when the saw is stood, if there is not enough saw dust to dry the oil up ( this can happen useing long bars, but only cutting small logs ), if the oil leakage is not excessive i would suggest this is normal. The oiling is a constent loss system, so is not sealed as well as a car sump for example.
If the brake band is now smaller than the clutch drum, the brake has activated, you now need to load the brake, there is a couple of ways to do this, you can remove the hand guard from the saw and use this to engage into the brake mechanism and firmly pull back to load it, or you can remove the clutch and drum from the saw, the brake will easily go back on, you can then load it on the saw in the normal way, to remove the clutch, there are a couple of cut a ways in the clutch centre where you can insert a screw driver, you can then strike the end of the screw driver with a suitable hammer to jar the clutch off against the compression of the saw, it is a left hand thread.
The chainbrake has activated, you need to load the brake before it will go back on, the easiest way to do this is to remove the hand guard from the machine , engage it into the brake mechanism and pull firmly back to load it, you can also remove the clutch and sprocket, the brake will then go back onto the saw, and use the hand guard as normal to load the brake, to remove the clutch jar it off against the compression of the saw, it is a left hand thread, there is a cut a way in the clutch centre to insert a screw driver and strike with a suitable hammer.
Sounds like the chain brake may be engaged. You should have a lever that looks somewhat like a handguard on the top of the chainsaw, right in front of the handle you hold the saw with. It should "snap" when you disengage the chain brake by pulling the lever back towards you.
You can find replacement chainsaw parts at PartsBuggy.com.
Good Evening Jesse;
Let us start with spark Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.
It has spark, fuel next When you removed the plug above was it wet (flooded!)? Yes read carefully the start procedure in the manual (99.5% of start problems are flooded). Not flooded, Close then open the choke (sets fast idle), put a teaspoon of mix into carburetor throat. reinstall the air filter, turn on the ignition, does it sputter and attempt to start? yes probably a fuel delivery problem. Reply below with the results so far and we will continue.
Your OM and an IPL can be downloaded here (please do): HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Awaiting your reply
Lou
Hi
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this: Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug. You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope while you are watching the plug for spark. If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module and or the sparkplug. Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area. Then follow the procedure below:
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor: Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor. Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces. That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor. Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank. Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters. When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference. Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb. Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting. If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank. The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages. Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable. Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages. Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages. Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from. When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws. But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position. Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper. That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started. Note: The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm. That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end. Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation. The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position. Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem. Please take time to rate me thumbs up
The fuel tank is in the crankcase, so there is a possibility of vapour lock if you have poor quaility fuel in your area, there is also a tank breather under the starter cover at the top right hand side, i have had to change quite a few of these, the breather is very tight to get around the emmissions ( gas leakage from the fuel tank ) i have been fitting the old pellet type breather fron the early three series saws, these are more open and do not vacume the tank, when it srats to die just try slackening the fuel filler cap, if it picks up again it is a breather issue.
