firstly, the answer re fuel going up the line is YES!
It sounds like a lack of compression. Take out sparkplug and place finger over cavity whilst pulling starter cord. The pressure should be strong enough to push your finger off the hole. If not, then the rings are shot or there is a hole in the top of the piston.
This will cause poor run in the fuel line to the carburetor. so the carbi is possibly empty or not full enough. Check the float level or that the float, actually floats. It sounds that that float is OK as its not flooding, but take a look anyway it may be jammed shut. Lastly.. check the spark lead where it goes inside the body as this screws onto a screw to make contact with the inside of the leed. Get a new leed as these carbon based leeds fail after a short time anyway.
Presumne you checked it was actually sparking well? These are the things that commonly affect chain saws and brush cutters
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Check the oil hole filler and see if the oil has fuel in it. This is a good indication of poor rings and holes in psiton
These are normally held on with a "C" clip. You need the exact part and also check if the groove it runs in is damaged or has material in it that keeps the clip from seating.
wind the spring in your hand to a size that will fit back in the housing then fit it. then fit the pulley back making sure the spring fits in the slot for it.
you should then botl the pulley back in place.
to tention spring you shuld notice a notch in the pulley that is for the rope to sit in while you turn the pulley to re tention it
Turn up your low speed jet about 1/4 turn. You have 2 holes in the side, one says slow or low and the other says high,, or fast, turn the slow jet in 1/4 or out if that doesn't work, then try it, you will find the right spot. Hope this helps.
There are no hard and fast settings.
The initial starting point "H" and "L" are 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated.
The"T" adjustment enters here too (idle speed) and there is initial setting without a tach, depending on age may not be any initial "T" setting.
The "L" needle is primarily idle performance (not speed) and acceleration to full throttle.
The "H" is mostly performance at speed, but all are interconnected.
Fresh mix of fuel. Put ALL of the old mix in any 4 cycle and start new. I suggest 50:1 regardless of what your manual says. This is the best performance adjustment I have found. Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
If push comes to shove a local saw shop (I prefer Stihl mechanics and do not own a Stihl) should be considered.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
You can download a manual and parts list for your saw here: CurrentModels http://www.poulanpro.com/node4043.aspx Type just the model numbers (choose the suffix after the list is provided). Good Luck, HTH Lou
For your safety DO NOT leave part of the drive link exposed no matter what some so called expert recommends.
Normally if the nose is not held up when adjusting a chain it slackens. Are you sure the oiler is working? Hold the nose 3 - 8" above a surface (newspaper works well) rev it up a little. You should see a line of slung off oil slowly appear. If excessively tight to begin with, friction may be causing this. Chain Adjustment
Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They do not need these really loose - finger tight will do.
Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
Dale this is a safety item. I suggest you take your saw and cup of premium black coffee to one of your local chainsaw outlets. A sales person should be willing to demonstrate (gratis but no promise) proper tensioning. Buy a couple of replacement chains or some 2-cycle oil while there as a thank you. Please reply below with what you find. Good Luck. HTH Lou
Try this it is most likely shorted wiring between the ignition and start switch. Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode. HTH Lou
Cracked fuel line. You can find an IPL (exploded parts list) containing fuel components and some illustrations here:
"P3314 Gas Saw Type #" (Type is the - number of your serial number) Poulan.com http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html
Fuel components are on the "Engine Assembly" & "Handle, Chassis, & Bar Assembly" detail pages. Replacement fuel lines can be found at your local chainsaw seller/mechanic. They are different diameters. Fuel Line Replacement by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrXpU70Hmi0
The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, the output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill the bulb as it inflates).
The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs will help with reassembly. HTH Lou
The low side of carb setting needs to be shut down. Will speed the idle up and stop from overloading on fuel. Only one catch. It takes a special tool to adjust. Go to poulanpro.com for your nearest dealer.
the vinyl primer button on your carb shoots fuel into the crankshaft space. when you pull the rewind air and fuel in the crankshaft area is sucked into the combustion chamber. when the magneto reaches almost top dead center, the high voltage fires the spark plug. if there is an air leak in the gasket that surrounds the crankshaft, the air/fuel mixture will be way off. flooding will occur and the plug will get saturated. remove the whole back of your engine and clean the mating surfaces. now use high temp permatex and run a bead all around the gasket surface. tighten all the bolts - screws. push the primer button twice and try starting the engine.
Recoil Spring Rewind I invert and secure the housing and rewind the spring large coil to small (need eye protection, both hands and no women around work area!). I'm right handed so I tension the spring enough to insert it inside the previous coil while holding what has already been installed with my left about 180° from my right hand. The tension will hold the spring in the housing once completely inserted. Then bend slightly the inner most part to engage the starter spool. It will require about 2 turns of pretension for it to retract properly. If you're lucky you can pull the cord out enough for a pretension then slightly raise and add the withdrawn cord to the spool. HTH Lou
A new spring comes wound tight enough to be dropped into place in the starter housing (Easiest).
I invert and secure the housing and rewind the spring large coil to small (need eye protection, both hands and no women around work area!). I'm right handed so i tension the spring enough to insert it inside the previous coil while holding what has already been installed with my left about 180° from my right hand. The tension will hold the spring in the housing once completely inserted. Then bend slightly the inner most part to engage the starter spool. It will require about 2 turns of pretension to retract properly.
If you're lucky you can pull the cord out enough for a pretension then slightly raise and add the withdrawn cord to the spool.
Both methods require about 2 turns of pretension to rewind the cord when pulled.
Lou
Replacement fuel lines can be found at your local chainsaw seller/mechanic. They are different diameters. 
