Hello No there is no switch in the motor.Correct voltage is done by hooking up incoming power to a combination of internal wires or contacts.
There should be a wiring diagram on the cover where the hookup is.Or on the outside case of the motor. The high and low speed doesnt make sence to me.Check the rpm of the motor it should be one rpm continueous. Unless this is a Hvac motor and not a pool pump motor.Possible you may have been sold the wrong motor. Usually a pool pump is 115 volts 1 speed and 1 rpm continuos duty.Unless you specify 230 volts.
There is a small portion that describes the line connections. If you need the internal wiring diagram you will need to contact me thru www.arrowmotor.net and well get it from AOSmith for you.
I'm guessing that you replaced the motor that goes to the pump, not the pump itself. You know the motor works just fine. Is the motor rotating in the correct manner(clockwise or counterclockwise) in relation to the rotation of the pump? Have you checked the pump to see if the impeller is working/rotating? Is the motor hooked up to the pump correctly, so that the motor is turning the impeller? Are all connections to the pump tight, so there are no suction leaks? Have you primed the pump and purged it of any air locks?
green wire cut off if motor is held on with metal bracket.white/yellow to contactor,black to other side contactor. brown/wht to fan on capacitor,brown to common on contactor NOT HERM.
We have a Model 2801052103 Franklin Electric submersible pump, 1/2HP 230 Volt. It starts and stops when using water frequently. System is 30+ years old, could the well be bad?
IS IT AN ABOVEGROUND OR SUBMERSIBLE (INGROUND) PUMP. USUALLY THIS IS CAUSED BY A BAD CAPACITOR OR BURNT POINTS ON THE PRESSURE SWITCH. THE CAPACITOR IS EITHER IN A RELAY BOX AT THE WELL OR IN THE MOTOR CASING. HOPE THIS HELPS. JODY
If the problem is the motor you could probably get the data needed off the motor's brand label and find an equivalent one on harborfreight.com or something.
Plastic impellers and pump cases are great for circulation applications but tend to wear out in pressure and or dirty water applications. The space between the impeller and case gets larger as it wears until the pump just circulates water inside the case.
Pump selection is dependent on applications, with pressure, volume, suction, temperture and fluid to be pumped only a few of the considerations.
Check for restricted suction strainer and hose first, then look at discharge side for kinked hoses and other obstructions. Then open case and look for worn impeller and volutes, occasionally there will be something lodged in the impeller like string or plastic film. Replacing the impeller alone if badly worne may help but won't bring the pressure back to new pump specs, you will need to replace the volute or case too if they are combined.
I use cast iron pumps for pumping silt laden irrigation water and have to rebuild them every 5-6 years, My suction head is 3' and head pressure is 35 psi. frankly I expected better life from cast iron but have to take what I can get.
Question edited for correct spelling of maker 'Noen' to 'Moen'.
'Fix' as in it is leaking? Or tighten it down because it is wobbly, or something completely different?
Well, we can have a one on one seminar by the internet. I've been a pumpman for 20 years. I can share with you my experience (household pumps, suibmersible pumps, turbine pumps, gear pumps, piston pumps, dewatering pumps, mud pumps, trash pumps, mining pumps, solids handling pump, etc....) Just take your pick. Just send in your e-mail for assistance. God bless.
