Craftsman 1/2" Impact Wrench - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check the pressure switch also is it before or after a regulator

You can go to sears .com and go to tools and you can see. It depends on the size and type you need

Being an Authorized Service Center for a couple air compressor companies I can tell you I have replaced several 240 volt motors because they were run on 208 volts. Not knowing what model you have or what motor is on it, yes your compressor will run on 208 volts but it is very ******* the motor. At startup, all voltages have a dropoff then come back up to their rated voltage. The dropoff is determined by the original voltage and length and guage of lines getting the power from your transformer to the compressor With 208 volts it typically drops to around 190 volts at startup then comes back up to 205 to 208 volts while running. The motor needs the full 240 volts when it restarts and there is already pressure in the tank If the motor's not marked, call the manufacturer and see if it's rated for up to 240 volts or only for 240 volts.

1 of 2 things #1 the pressure releive valve that lets the pressure of the pump when it kicks off is stuck closed so what is happening is when the compressor kicks back on its under a load and trips braker. #2 your braker is to small for the compressor.

Check the O-rings in the rachet, itf they are leaking then the rachet will not work.

With a belt drive system, there is no timing to be set. Just put the belt on and tighten down. From there, you should be good to go.

I put some lubrication oil into the air line then made sure that it goes in there by moving the anvil (1/2") back and forth then tapped the lower handle making sure the oil goes everywhere. it worked on mine.

replace the check valve. $8:00 solution

Hi judyhipkins...

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.

Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.

Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.

Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.

Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me

Hi

Here are a few things to check.
You may have already checked some of these.

Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.

Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.

Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.

Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.
Please take time to rate me

Oil very well, and try and work it back and forth by hand.

Most aircompressors these days take non detergent 30 like an hd 30 gear oil , call sears they will have filters and belt

Hi Jim,

Disconnect your main air supply from the comp head to the receiver/tank and see if their is a reasonable air supply to atmosphere.

If not check that air is being taken in by the head intake filter

John

Hi

Suggestion, in future when finished with air, drain the tank, this may have some effect on the head valves or the pressure switch.
Try disconnecting the head/ tank pressure delivery tube/pipe, run on manual and auto to see whether
it will run.
If there is no air delivery out of the pipe or head.If there is an mimnimal air supply then there may be a problem with the head pressure valves
Hope this is of help

John

Were the gaskets in fine shape? If you get a tear in the middle of the head or valve plate gasket, where it separates the intake and exhaust, then the pump will only build up pressure to the range you have or sometimes up to only the 50psi range.

Another thing to check is if it has a one way check valve that goes into the tank where the pump line/hose feeds from the compressor pump into the tank. Many of the check valves use a simple plastic cup and a spring. If they get stuck open then that will also make it not build up pressure.

The other part I can think of is the control box but usually when they fail they either won't turn on the unit or they will leak air.

The last thing to check would be the piston ring(s) and cylinder/sleeve. The oil less compressors will wear these items out far more often then an oil style will. When the oil less piston and sleeve get scored up (from dirt ingestion) then they also will not build up much pressure.

Either the head valve is stuck or it has a bad seal/o-ring.

You don't give much information about your compressor. I have had several smaller "oilless", 1/4 though 6 HP compressors and my experience is that as they age, the rings wear and they are not good at compressing air. You can get a rebuild kit for the machine but I think you will find the cost is about 1/3 the price of a new compressor. This is not unique to the Craftsman brand, BTW.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

If you need this part fast try going to a paint store that sells spray pumps . These things are most of the time stanard sizes eighter SAE or METRIC you should be able to match it up if you have the one you need to replace with you . Its a seal if its a little off it won;t matter as long as it seals and the fixture its tight it should work . I spray paint and have to make things like this all the time in a pinch to keep the job going until i can get to the supplyer . Give it a shot

sounds like it tripped the motor overload look for a reset button sometimes they will have a number on the end of the button just push it to reset it

check for a bad check valve