Craftsman 1/2" Impact Wrench - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the check valve, disconnect the tube between the pump and the tank and power it up and see if it still humms.

Sounds like you need a higher current circuit. When a motor starts up, there is a higher than normal current draw, usually 2x to 4x the running current. When it starts up against cut in pressure, there is even more resistance and hence more current draw than when starting up against no pressure in the tank. So, your circuit is capable of providing startup current with no presure, but with pressure it is drawing more current and tripping the beaker. Don't just put a higher rated circuit hreaker in unless you want to buern down your house. Get an electrician to measure the starting current of your compressor and wire up a circuit and outlet that will handle that current safely. That said, the advertising for the compressor says it can run on a standard (15 amp) household circuit, so your motor may be drawing excessive current. Either way, an electrician can help you. Another option is to add capacitive start to the compressor, but, again, a good electrician will have the solution.

If the compressor motor is dual voltage then yes, otherwise no.
Notice the current draw is twice at low voltage than that of high voltage in a dual voltage motor.

Pneumatic tools are rated in cfm (cubic feet per minute). Your 1 HP air compressor is rated at probably not more than 3 cfm while the 1/2 " impact driver needs at least 8 cfm, maybe 12 chm of air.
The compressor must provide more chm than tool rating needs.
It is a problem, by the time you look at five horse power air compressors and larger, a lot of electric power is needed. A circuit of 220 volts, 20, 30, or more amps would be required to run those large expensive compressors.
If you can, return the air tool and get a good electric tool instead.
Leave those high air volume air tools to shops that are so equipped to use, or invest if you must.

not completely familiar with that exact model but on other ones if there is a jam it wont fire or was jammed and not reset, meaning the driver( what drives the nail) has to be in the up most position. so use a long thin rod and push it back to the top and check that the magazine has nails or that the feed is good. if want to try with no nails you have to leave the magazine open. but should work with charged battery and make sure any adjustment switches are on or off cant be in a middle position. but know from the dewalt framer cordless the driver has to be up before it will fire.

https://www.manualslib.com/

Mine did that and i shot a bit of WD40 on all the moving parts. It works now. I think it was stored in a damp air place and corrosion set in.

This compressor has a 33 gallon tank and a 3 to 5 hp (rated)motor. Sears , however, rates their motor power rather differently. I would guess that the actual hp is more like one to one and a half horsepower, going by the amp draw. Usually, a 3 to 5 hp range compressor will only run on 220v and this unit is 110v.

depends where it is If it is from the bottom it may be a rusted out tank ( don't fix) if it from around the weld for the boss ( rusted out -don't fix if it is around a plug thread just reseal remember that compressor tanks contain oil and water and welding before completely evacuating with nitrogen gas will cause an explosion

sears .com ---

if it no on the motor ,it will not have one

indicates reed/ poppet valve problem possibly a broken spring in a head

Check all wring. Remove cove and see if you can turn over by hand.If you can't unit is broken/frozen.it should run on 120. look at the plug if prongs are vertical the unit 120vac. Look on motor wire box if it can be rewired it will be there. I doubt this unit is designed to operate on 120vax. The mots/pump assembly is not available for purchase. there are a few repair parts available. do you want to spend the time and money for rewind.? good luck

M40F30, 40uf +- 10 %, -40/70 C , 370 VAC 50/60 HZ. Mallory 400-480 MFD ,165 VAC I show two, one is a start and one is a run. The best bet is amazon.com they are showing them for about 10 to 15 dollars

Trying to identify a free manual:Is the same compressor or not:http://mooreandassociates.hibid.com/lot/64705-38238-28421/craftsman-air-compressor/ https://www.manualslib.com/c/craftsman+3+hp+17+gal+air+compressor+919.html Results for craftsman 3 hp 17 gal air compressor 919 var myCallback...

Could be piston O rings, worn cylinder line, worn reed valve-plate assembly, worn discharge check valve, leaking unloader valve. Need info if unloader is leaking or unloader tubing is leaking. The Cheapest and quickest is to remove valve plate assembly and inspect valve plate. Suction side should hold water and discharge valve should hold water placed on bottom of plate.

you're good to go! Plug and Play! :) Compressor Tank Pump Style Oil Free

Craftsman Portable Oil Free Direct Drive Air Compressor Parts 919 165500 Illustrations of Sears Craftsman at the link above for: Portable Oil-Free Direct-Drive Air Compressor

it is possible that it is not the compressor but the breaker has reached it's end of life. I'd change it to eliminate that before throwing any more parts at the compressor. My suggestion anyway.

if you are using quick connects it is likely that you need to wrap with PTFE thread tape to ensure seal... If you aren't that would indicate a leak in the tool meaning the tool should be replaced...