Top 20 Craftsman 1/2" Impact Wrench - Page 7 Questions & Answers

If their is air leaking out of the pressure switch after the motor turns off you have a stuck or broken tank check valve. The check valve (PN CAC-437-2) is located on the tank where the line from the pump goes into the tank. There is also a smaller line from the check valve to the pressure switch. If working properly, the check valve lets air into the tank but closes when the motor shuts off. The pressure switch then opens a valve to the smaller line and lets the pressure out of the pump head and lines so the motor can restart when the pressure drops. On rare occasions you can remove the valve and clean it, but more often than not, you have to replace it.

The two main areas to inspect if your pressure isn't going over 35psi are the valve plate and piston/cylinder assembly. If the reed valves on the valve plate are bent, warped or broken, usually attributable to high heat, they won't seal well enough to get higher pressures. If the cylinder is badly scored or the piston and/or piston rings are damaged, usually attributable to running the pump motor with low or no oil, the seal between them won't be good enough to get the pressure any higher.

In 80% of the cases this is the problem. I sulose that you use a lot this compressor so the one way valve gets worn out. The first stel is to pull out the smal hose when the unit stops and see if air escapes. If so then change the black piece in the photo. It will last for a small period of time. I recomend to change the piece in the photo.
This is a way to solve the problem if air escapes trough the small hose.7

Sounds like the Head unloader is not working. there is a small tube going to the pressure control that is suppose to remove the pressure in the head so it doesn't have to start under loadHope this answers all your questionsLeave a comment if you need more help.Thanks for using Fixya.

on amazon you can find replacement parts to fix it. Amazon com Jobsmart Hope this was helpful. cheers

Sources of noise from craftsman oil free compressors (could be Made by Campbell Hausfeld or Porter Cable) include loose fan, failing bearing/s on the piston rod and housing, failing seal ring on piston, air filter intake and loose motor mounts. With the housing cover off, check the fan blade for cracks or loose screw. Turn motor by hand till the piston is at top of stroke. Examine the cylinder for scratches close to top. If scratched, air is leaking past vinyl ring making noise and causing longer fill time. If everything looks ok, suspect noise coming from bearings. Hard to tell if bearings are failing by looking at them. I have seen many failures of the piston bearing on the crank (fairly easy to change, I use alternator bearing from auto parts ) , however, the bearing in the housing just behind the crank bearing is much harder to replacable. Good luck with your fix-it project.

If your compressor starts with no air in the tank but pops the breaker when it restarts with pressure in the tank it is usually because the tank check valve (choke valve) is stuck open. The valve lets air into the tank while the pump is running then closes when the pump shuts off so the valve on the pressure regulator can relieve the pressure in the pump head and lines. If the valve is stuck open, the motor has to fight the tank pressure to restart. Occasionally they can be cleaned up and will work but usually they have to be replaced. The valve would be on the tank where the copper line from the pump goes into the tank. There will also be a line running from the pressure regulator on it. The Craftsman part number is A19712.

I can not find a Craftsman compressor with that model number anywhere so here are a couple things to look into. If the compressor fills to 70psi and keeps on running check the valve plate and piston/cylinder assemblies. Check that the valve reeds on the valve plate are not bent, broken or warped from heat. Then check that the wiper (oil less) or pistion rings (oil splash) are not damaged and that the cylinder wall is not scarred up. Any of these will let the compressor fill up to the point where the air pressure leaks past the valves or piston and won't fill any further. If the compressor fills to 70psi then shuts off the problem is in the pressure switch. Some have an adjustment screw or bolt to control when it turns on and shuts off. If you had a drop from 100 to 70 the springs may be weak or broke and you'll have to replace the switch.

If you can check nailer on another compressor. If it works check your compressor, if not the nail gun is in need of repairs. Otherwise, reading the two guages on the compressor, check that the pressure in the tank is around 100psi and the regulated pressure is between 85 and 90psi. If not, regulated pressure is adjusted by the knob on the front of the housing. With a blowgun on the end of hose, connect the other end to the compressor. If you don't get any air the regulator may be broken and not letting air through. If you have air at the blowgun the problem may be with the nailer.

The air compressor you have does not have a muffler on so I'm assuming you're talking about the air filter. You can buy any craftsman parts from www.SearsPartsDirect.com or go to a site like www.ereplacementparts.com and get an air filter for it. Both sites also let you search on your model number to see the breakdown of your compressor so you can see what parts you need. The air filter element is part number D24233 and the air filter kit which includes the filter retainer is part number D24235.

Being an Authorized Service Center for a couple air compressor companies I can tell you I have replaced several 240 volt motors because they were run on 208 volts. Not knowing what model you have or what motor is on it, yes your compressor will run on 208 volts but it is very ******* the motor. At startup, all voltages have a dropoff then come back up to their rated voltage. The dropoff is determined by the original voltage and length and guage of lines getting the power from your transformer to the compressor With 208 volts it typically drops to around 190 volts at startup then comes back up to 205 to 208 volts while running. The motor needs the full 240 volts when it restarts and there is already pressure in the tank If the motor's not marked, call the manufacturer and see if it's rated for up to 240 volts or only for 240 volts.

check the pressure switch also is it before or after a regulator

Check the O-rings in the rachet, itf they are leaking then the rachet will not work.

see if the pressure switch is burned

1 of 2 things #1 the pressure releive valve that lets the pressure of the pump when it kicks off is stuck closed so what is happening is when the compressor kicks back on its under a load and trips braker. #2 your braker is to small for the compressor.

You can go to sears .com and go to tools and you can see. It depends on the size and type you need

With a belt drive system, there is no timing to be set. Just put the belt on and tighten down. From there, you should be good to go.

I put some lubrication oil into the air line then made sure that it goes in there by moving the anvil (1/2") back and forth then tapped the lower handle making sure the oil goes everywhere. it worked on mine.

replace the check valve. $8:00 solution

Hi judyhipkins...

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.

Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.

Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.

Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.

Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
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