Powermatic 66 10" 3 HP 1 Phase 230V Table Saw w/ 30" Accu-Fence & Rout-R-Lift 1660806K - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Switches are very common devices, and can be purchased in many configurations. Remove the switch and search the following places: www.digikey.com www.mouser.com

Try lubricating with silicone spray. I use it for just such things, and I'm happy with how it works. Also, clean and lubricate the lock on the elevation control.

--W/D--

Bob, I just bought one of these saws 2 weeks ago (1997 Model) I have it completely disassembled as of right now. There is a worm gear that drives a very large set of teeth attached to the trunion. Mine were completely clogged and full of crud that the mechanisim would barely turn. I am thinking the teeth on the worm gear or trunion at the 90 degree end need to be cleaned to allow it to hit its full range of motion, Its also possible the teeth on one of these pieces is cracked or broken. I would try cleaning them. If you cant get to them, the cast iron top comes off fairly easily. # bolts hold the right wing to the main top and 3 bolts hold the main top to the cabinet. Of course if you have rails, these need to come off first. I have attached images of the before and after of cleaning these parts so you can see if they are really bad like mine, it could be your problem, Hope this helps

Simple solution: switch two of the wires. Doing so will reverse the direction of the motor. You can switch it at the motor or on the electrical plug end.

When you are facing the saw as if you would be operating, there are two adjustment wheel on the front and right hand sides of the saw cabinet. The front wheel adjusts the blade height, the wheel on the right side of the cabinet adjusts tilt. Each of these wheels are equipped with a locking nut, a smaller wheel in the center. this must be loosened before any adjustments can be made and should be tightened before operation. If there is significant resistance while trying to adjust either of these it may be a result of misaligned gear or excessive buildup of dust and shavings on the gearing.

I have seen a "buy it now" on Ebay for such a thing. Someone making a vacuum formed generic cover. Looks like it would work, even if it looks like a bubble-boy-solution.Another solution I have seen is a wooden replica with louvers for ventilation.Sheet metal would be a solution if you have a break and press to properly form, other wise it looks like you banged it our with a hammer and scrap metal.I need the same thing and will probably to the wood with a paint that hides the fact...

That is the current setting for a motor-starter which is an overcurrent sensor. This is a circuit breaker like device that usually has a heater coil that opens a contact which cuts the power to the relay that powers the motor to prevent overload damage to the motor.

The dial is in AMPS and should be set just slightly higher than the nameplate amp rating for the motor.

Check to make sure the arbor set screw is not loose. The bearings may have shifted when you moved it. I recently rebuilt an old 66. Repositioning the bearings and tightening the set screw could be all it needs.

On the Powermatic 66's the first two numbers are the year in which it was made, so yours was made in 1997. The second set of two numbers is the model. The last numbers I"m unsure of but its my understanding that they represent the manufactured number, so yours was the 1,400th saw made for that year.

Before you go into motor defects, is the drive belt tight enough?
Alex

There is a direct short some where.Unplug and turn the blade and listen to the bearings. One of the brushes might be worn down and be jammed against the armature. Five years of use and those brushes might be ready for replacement. If things turn out to be easy fix then changing brushes is not that hard.When you take them out you will see some small holes in the holders.When you put the new brush in the spring will try to push the brush back out,use a small piece of wire in the holes to hold it in.Next install the brushes back where they go.Check the armature out use a hacksaw blade to clean those grooves between the metal strips.Put the armature back in place and button it back together and pull out the keeper wires and your done.

There are no grease fittings that I know of, I know mine doesn't have any, I would blame the trouble on a belt, or a blade. And if that doesn't do it, I would look at the bearings on the shaft. But that being the best saw made, as far as I'm concerned, You shouldn't have any problem. If it was a delta, you would be buying a boat just to dump the saw in the ocean. Hope this helps.

The wrong capacitor for one thing. There are starting caps and running caps. The starting cap is in the circuit for only long enough for the motor to get up to speed. If you have a Leeson motor that has a start and run cap then the run cap may not be the correct on. If you have a start cap blowing out I suggest you check the centriifugal switch in the end of the motor. It may have welded the contacts shut. In any case, I would take it to a motor shop .

Your saw motor is equipped with a two speed internal start switch. Over time saw dust will get into the contacts and cause the points to burn. You can pull the end off of the motor and take some 400 grit sandpaper to the contacts to clean them( there are two sets of contacts one works in the out position the other in the in position) it will be the set in the in position that is the problem. Gentle clean them, reassemble the motor end cap and it will work fine. I have to do this about once a year to my saws. I use my saws about 25 hours a week. I have been doing this to one of my Powermatic saws for 31 yrs. now.

Either it has a problem with a blade brake or the motor is siezing. Or the is a wiring problem. With the unit unplugged check and see if you can turn the blade by hand, if not the motor is the problem. If it does you could still have a motor problem by it drawing to much amperage or the is a wiring problem.

You may have lost power on one of the wires to the motor. Check the wiring for breaks, if you have a meter make sure there is power to the 2 110 volt wires.

The factory never intended for you to touch the 4 bolts you mentioned. The table top is set parallel with the blade by loosening the 3 bolts (2 in front and one in rear on the outside of the cast iron table where it meets the base. These are easily accessible by sitting on a milk crate and looking up. They are 3/8 bolts with 9/16 heads.

Hi,

Looks like a 40A breaker .. would suggest having a review of the user/service manual located at http://content.powermatic.com/manuals/1660760K_man.pdf

If you can remove the switch you will probably be able to get one from Radio Shack etc fairly easily

If this helps, pls leave feedback, if not let me know and I'll try and help some more!

this is most probably a wiring problem, either pay for it to be mended, or diy at your own risk.

okay
1st. UNPLUG FROM MAINS.
2nd. remove the front panal, which is around the on button
3rd. there should be a wire connecting the on button to the rest of the wiring, make sure that hasnt been knocked about, make sure the button is clean and then re-attach the front panal and start it up.

if this doesnt mend the problem, i suggest getting someone professional to fix it, this may cost though.

I have used this Saw alot and it takes two hands.

Still a great saw......