Top 20 DeLonghi DE500 Dehumidifier - Page 2 Questions & Answers

This hose fits onto a peg on the top behind the tank.It just fell down.

check the motor resistance, check the connection to the motor. Thermistor may be cut the connection.

Hi,
There are many reasons for a dehumidifier to not work or collect water.
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people to figure out what is going wrong with their dehumidifier.

Dehumidifier is running but no water is in bucket
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4662409-dehumidifier_running_but_no_water_in

heatman101

Hi Thomast5263,
I live in NJ and the nearest center is in CT. So you can imagine that I am not gonna to ship my unit! :-)
The one I got is from Hartford, CT Utility Electric Service: 860-246-7271; talk to Dana and he is very helpful. They charged me $25 and shipped me the part and it now works fine.
When I talked to Dana he sounded pretty sure it was the condensor sensor. Simply call Dana and tell him that you have an "E3" code. I do NOT know the part number or ID.
Don't open the unit until you get the new part ---- it will help you to identify the part to be replaced. After you get the part, make sure you mark down all the screws (they are not the same! so pay attention which one is where). There are two tabs on the top so be careful when get them separate apart ---- don't force it or you might break it. The sensor itself is attached/stuck in between the copper coils under a black cover. Plug another end to the control board and you are done. Apparently there are two kinds of plug-in end ---- the first part Dana shipped to me did not match the old part so he has to send me another one which worked.
The whole procedure is not that difficult, but when you are doing this the first time you just need to be patient to locate all the screws and sparate the covers. From my experience you do need to take all covers off, otherwise you can not see the part and the wire.
Good luck to you and let me know the good news!

Hi there - you have to vacuum the filter several times. You can pull it out of the back left hand side of the unit. Vacuum it several times, and then start the unit on the lower fan setting, at a humidity level of around 60%. It will kick in after a bit, and then you can start adjusting the humidity level to where you would normally use it.

Sometimes - after you have vacuumed the filter, it still doesn't work. I used my fingers to pick lint off the filter, and ran a BIC safety razor over it as well, to try and get more out of the filter. You can also wash the filter in warm water, and leave it to dry over night. Don't put it back in until it's completely dry.

This will work! Cheers... E

I went back and rechecked. If the fan mode is selected, you can only set the fan at one of the three speeds. If you leave it in the fan mode, the dehumidifier will not come on.

Once the fan speed is selected, it will run at that speed in the dehumidifier mode. The fan will keep running, even when the dehumidifier (compressor) shuts down.

The only way to get it to turn off is to use the clock setting, which either selects how long it stands-by before starting , or how long it will run before going back to stand-by. DeLonghi calls it "stand-by," we would call it "off." DeLonghi calls unplugged "off."

I've never turned mine to stand-by, because it will never get my entire house down to 30% humidity (I have it where my air handler returns air to the basement). I live in the greater DC Metro area, where 75% humidity is considered extremely dry.

Apparently the normal mode of operation is fan on unless awaiting a clock start, or encountering a clock shut-down; either condition puts it into the "stand-by" mode.

Wow....good thing the kids were not around......

Unfortunately I cannot say this has happened to me!

I just fixed the same problem on my DE-500P. The pump filter was blocked and there was a layer of scummy lint-like stuff in the bottom of the pump reservoir (not the main - or overflow tank) also blocking flow down through the filter to the pump. Repair steps are as follows:

1. Remove the overflow water tank and the two side covers (five screws in each). Note that as you go through the removal of all the covers and other procedures, there are two lengths of screws; don't switch them. If you lose track, the rule of thumb is use the short screws for going through a single layer of plastic into metal.

2. Remove the rear cover (take out the screws along the bottom and on the sides). It will still be attached to the front top cover at the top with tab fasteners. Gently pull out the bottom of the cover while depressing the top of it on both sides with your thumbs (about an inch and a half inside the trim ridges) to clear the tabs. Ease the top part of the cover back and remove it (it will have to tilt to one side, don't forget this when putting it back on).

3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

4. The filter looks like a small transparent in-line gas filter. Remove the pump filter, leaving the short tube attached to the top of it. I quickly atttached a length of tubing to drain the reservoir into a bucket. I couldn't find a replacement filter, so I filed a slot in the side of the bottom half of it to remove the gunk using the wire from a twist tie (the upper half had some tabs inside that would have been in the way). Afterwards, I wrapped it tightly with stretchy electrical tape and put a wire tie over the tape at the slot to keep the tape from being able to creep loose over time. Don't use a fuel filter, the paper element is too fine (you need a screen) and the paper will fall apart in water.

4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

5. Clean out any dirty tubes, paying particular attention to the coupling for the drain hose and the long drain hose itself.

6. Put the reservoir back in and hook up all the tubes and filter. It does make a difference in which direction the filter goes back in. You want the water from the reservoir to go through the filter from the outside of the little screen; that leaves the maximum room for crud build-up before it plugs up the screen again.

7. Depending on your confidence level, at this point you may want to plug in the dehumidfier, put the overflow tank in, turn it on, turn on the pump, and fill the pump reservoir to check for functioning and leaks. If you do this, just remember that the circuits are hot and not all are insulated.

8. If all is OK, unplug the dehumidifier and put the covers back on. Total time was about an hour.

Try removing the cover on the filter side and gently cleaning off any lint on the evaporator and the sensor.

I got mine fixed tonight! It was not that easy but can be done.
After my last post, I called the customer service of DeLonghi. The agent can only refer me to the authorized repair shops but she does not know what “E3” meant. There is no shop in NJ where I live, and the closest one is in CT! One of the two shops there knows right away the E3 is the fault of a condenser sensor. He mailed me the part ($25) and I took the covers off (be very careful to record where the screws are from ---- they are not all the same size/shape, and also there are two small tabs on the top holding two cover pieces together, so don’t force it to open or you will break it). There is only one part looks like the same as the replacement part I newly obtained and it has a metal clip attached on the copper coils. Carefully replace the sensor on the coil as you find previously and plug the other end to the control board. It sounds lengthy but once you open the cover it will all become clear to you. Be patient and this can be done. Very glad to see/hear it is working now again!

p.s., the store first mailed me the wrong part (on the plug-in end it has two ridges rather than one) so I have to call them again to explain and they mailed me a different one with a single ridge. Apparently there are two types (old and new model) for this model.

I just fixed the same problem on my DE-500P. The pump filter was blocked and there was a layer of scummy lint-like stuff in the bottom of the pump reservoir (not the main - or overflow tank) also blocking flow down through the filter to the pump. The line you tried to plug is probably the vent line for the pump reservoir. It attaches to a fitting on the removable tank side of the bulkhead. Unstop the vent. Repair steps are as follows:

1. Remove the overflow water tank and the two side covers (five screws in each). Note that as you go through the removal of all the covers and other procedures, there are two lengths of screws; don't switch them. If you lose track, the rule of thumb is use the short screws for going through a single layer of plastic into metal.

2. Remove the rear cover (take out the screws along the bottom and on the sides). It will still be attached to the front top cover at the top with tab fasteners. Gently pull out the bottom of the cover while depressing the top of it on both sides with your thumbs (about an inch and a half inside the trim ridges) to clear the tabs. Ease the top part of the cover back and remove it (it will have to tilt to one side, don't forget this when putting it back on).

3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

4. The filter looks like a small transparent in-line gas filter. Remove the pump filter, leaving the short tube attached to the top of it. I quickly atttached a length of tubing to drain the reservoir into a bucket. I couldn't find a replacement filter, so I filed a slot in the side of the bottom half of it to remove the gunk using the wire from a twist tie (the upper half had some tabs inside that would have been in the way). Afterwards, I wrapped it tightly with stretchy electrical tape and put a cable tie over the tape at the slot to keep the tape from being able to creep loose over time. Don't use a fuel filter, the paper element is too fine (you need a screen) and the paper will fall apart in water.

4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

5. Clean out any dirty tubes, paying particular attention to the coupling for the drain hose and the long drain hose itself.

6. Put the reservoir back in and hook up all the tubes and filter. It does make a difference in which direction the filter goes back in. You want the water from the reservoir to go through the filter from the outside of the little screen; that leaves the maximum room for crud build-up before it plugs up the screen again. Newer ones have a flow direction arrow; point it away from the reservoir.

7. Depending on your confidence level, at this point you may want to plug in the dehumidfier, put the overflow tank in, turn it on, turn on the pump, and fill the pump reservoir to check for functioning and leaks. If you do this, just remember that the circuits are hot and not all are insulated.

8. If all is OK, unplug the dehumidifier and put the covers back on. Total time was about an hour.

I just fixed the same problem on my DE-500P. The pump filter was blocked and there was a layer of scummy lint-like stuff in the bottom of the pump reservoir (not the main - or overflow tank) also blocking flow down through the filter to the pump. Repair steps are as follows:

1. Remove the overflow water tank and the two side covers (five screws in each). Note that as you go through the removal of all the covers and other procedures, there are two lengths of screws; don't switch them. If you lose track, the rule of thumb is use the short screws for going through a single layer of plastic into metal.

2. Remove the rear cover (take out the screws along the bottom and on the sides). It will still be attached to the front top cover at the top with tab fasteners. Gently pull out the bottom of the cover while depressing the top of it on both sides with your thumbs (about an inch and a half inside the trim ridges) to clear the tabs. Ease the top part of the cover back and remove it (it will have to tilt to one side, don't forget this when putting it back on).

3. Remove the top cover, not forgetting the two screws on top by where the back cover attached (go gently, there's a wiring harness) and turn it to the side. There was enough slack to leave the wires connected; just be careful to not damage them.

4. The filter looks like a small transparent in-line gas filter. Remove the pump filter, leaving the short tube attached to the top of it. I quickly atttached a length of tubing to drain the reservoir into a bucket. I couldn't find a replacement filter, so I filed a slot in the side of the bottom half of it to remove the gunk using the wire from a twist tie (the upper half had some tabs inside that would have been in the way). Afterwards, I wrapped it tightly with stretchy electrical tape and put a wire tie over the tape at the slot to keep the tape from being able to creep loose over time. Don't use a fuel filter, the paper element is too fine (you need a screen) and the paper will fall apart in water.

4. Remove the float and bracket from the pump reservoir. The reservoir screws are not all apparent; there's also a screw way over on the left and one coming in from the right. I used a 12 inch #2 phillips screwdriver with a magnetized tip for most of this. Remove the pump reservoir and clean out the scummy stuff in the bottom and where the tubes attach. When removing the reservoir, you'll have to detach the vent line that goes through the bulkhead to where the big tank was and pull the tab above it down slightly while easing the tank out.

5. Clean out any dirty tubes, paying particular attention to the coupling for the drain hose and the long drain hose itself.

6. Put the reservoir back in and hook up all the tubes and filter. It does make a difference in which direction the filter goes back in. You want the water from the reservoir to go through the filter from the outside of the little screen; that leaves the maximum room for crud build-up before it plugs up the screen again.

7. Depending on your confidence level, at this point you may want to plug in the dehumidfier, put the overflow tank in, turn it on, turn on the pump, and fill the pump reservoir to check for functioning and leaks. If you do this, just remember that the circuits are hot and not all are insulated.

8. If all is OK, unplug the dehumidifier and put the covers back on. Total time was about an hour.

If you have the fan icon selected, it is supposed to run continuously. If you use the mode button (not the fan button) to change to relative humidity (the water drop icon), the fan should only run with the dehumidifier.

I have the same problem. Very annoying. My suggestion is to go to your nearest dealer and throw the unit through their front window.

I Had an E error (not an E1 error) when I was fiddling with my humidity/temp sensor on the face of the radiator fins (behind air filter).  The sensor was WET.  I dabbed it dry, let it sit all day, and re-assembled.  It works fine now.

This tube is likely related to the water pump out feature that these have. They have a pinch clamp on connections, perhaps your clamp is loose or misaligned.

The flashing pause light on your DeLonghi dehumidifier indicates that the unit is in a defrost cycle. During this time, the compressor shuts off and the fan continues to run in order to thaw any ice that may have formed on the coils. This process typically lasts for 10-15 minutes before the unit resumes normal operation. If the pause light continues to flash even after the defrost cycle is complete, it may indicate a problem with the unit's sensor or control board. In this case, it is recommended to consult the user manual or contact a professional for assistance with troubleshooting and repairs.

If the air conditioner works and is blowing out super chilled air, then the dehumidifier function should work. The function takes in warm moist air and passes it over plates which are marginally colder than the ambient air. The air condenses and drips into a collection tank, or some have drain hose for putting into a floor drain. After 8 years, it may need service and gassing up, but you may also have drier air than you think. Whether is works in AC Mode is the key.

The hose is supposed to be in the tank. Someone emptied the tank and forgot to put the hose back.

Apparently NOWHERE! Contact DeLonghi direct https://www.delonghi.com/en-int/products/comfort/air-treatment/dehumidifiers This search query should have shown lots of places, Maker direct, Amazon, eBay and Appliance parts suppliers like Part Select dot com. It's very odd. https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk00f9Jx3klLUl0dKNUo5ffEHVuQLMA%3A1612057058213&ei=4gkWYNW0DJWq1QGmg6TQAg&q=DeLonghi+DN+125+R+Dehumidifier+replacement+filter ..