20 Most Recent Nordic Track NordicTrack Treadmill, A2550 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Follow this video is not the same model but almost all treadmills have the same way to replace the walking belt: http://www.howtoreplacemywalkingbelt.com/

General Construction

• The most basic breakdown of a treadmill: a continuously moving belt powered by a motor over a deck that is mounted on a sturdy metal frame. The variables are the size of the belt, the power of the motor, the thickness and composition of the platform as well as the range of options that increase both function and cost of the treadmill. Making the right choices on all these permutations will add to the enjoyment and benefits of using your treadmill.

Frame Composition

• Frames are generally made from aluminum or steel. Even if there's no difference in the tensile strength in the frames, steel is better because it will produce a heavier treadmill. That increases the machine's stability and lessens the vibrations generated by your exercise, especially running. Frames can be either bolted or welded together. Welded frames are stronger, and there is no risk of a bolt working loose during long periods of operating the treadmill.

Motor Size

• Most treadmills have two electric motors. One raises and lowers the deck, allowing you to get a versatile workout. The more important motor is the one that moves the exercise belt under your feet. The drive motor turns a flywheel that is connected by a belt---similar to the belts for the engine of your car---to the front roller. The front roller pushes the exercise belt to the back of the treadmill where a free-moving rear roller serves as the exercise belt's turnaround point. Check for the continuous horsepower (CHP) and revolution per minute (RPM) rating on the motor. In fact, lift the motor cover and look for the ratings stamped directly on the motor. A motor that needs high RPMs (more than 5,000) to generate enough torque to drive the exercise belt is a candidate for overheating and is unlikely to last long. If your plan is only to walk---not run---on your treadmill, a 1.5-horsepower motor with less than 5,000 RPMs will suffice. But if you weigh more than 200 lbs. or you plan to run on your treadmill, you will need at least a 2-horsepower motor with an RPM rating of 4,000 or, preferably, less. Choosing one with 2.5 horsepower or more will be even better if you plan to run for long workouts. When in doubt, go up in horsepower. The motor not only moves the belt but it must overcome the resistance you provide with each stride. Smaller motors with high RPM ratings will allow the belt to hesitate slightly. In addition, you likely will be moving more slowly than the speed displayed on the treadmill's console if you are trying to run. Larger motors might be noisier, so look for a motor housing that absorbs some of the machine noise when the treadmill is in operation.

Belt Size

• Your workout plans also will dictate what size belt and rollers you need. The treadmill's exercise belt will be made of a thin, multiply polyester/fabric mix with a PVC top coat, which produces the best combination for reducing friction and the heat it generates. This will extend the life of the belt and prevent slipping while you're in motion. Although the surface will be smooth against the deck, the PVC coating will be waffled underneath your feet for better traction. Even if you have short legs and you only plan to walk on the treadmill, you should get a belt at least 18 inches wide and 48 inches long. If you plan to run, a 20-inch belt width is better and 22 inches is best, and you shouldn't choose anything less than 54 inches in length. Longer---up to 60 inches---is better, especially for tall runners. The treadmill will run more smoothly with bigger rollers because the rollers will have more grip surface for the belt as it is propelled over the deck. If you plan to run on your treadmill, rollers with 2-inch diameter are the minimum. Some high-end treadmills come with 3.5-inch rollers. Larger rollers also result in less stress on the bearings; a 3.5-inch roller will need to rotate roughly 60 percent less than a 2-inch roller to cover the same distance.

Platform Surface

• Treadmill decks are made of wood or, more specifically, composite wood substitutes, either particle board or medium density fiberboard (MDF). For runners, an MDF deck at least 1-inch thick is the minimum. A 3/4-inch surface might be OK for walking, but it will be too bouncy for running and will crack more easily. The deck surface will have a laminate coating---preferably on both sides---to allow the exercise belt to slide smoothly. Treadmills commonly have rubber grommets built into the frame to provide cushioning as you exercise. Some treadmills have shock absorption only in the front (landing area) so that you have a firmer push-off for your next stride. With the built-in shock absorption and the smooth surface, a workout on a treadmill is likely to be less stressful on your joints than running outdoors, unless you have access to a perfectly level wood-chip path.

Speed and Incline

• Most treadmills now come equipped with easy-to-reach controls that allow you to change the belt speed and the incline of the deck while the belt is in motion. The lift motor generally uses a hydraulic lift to raise and lower the treadmill on its front legs. The elevation motor should have a thrust value of at least 400---more for runners---so the deck can be shoved up without any hesitation during exercise. Some treadmills use gears for elevation. That's neither as smooth nor as reliable as hydraulic lifts. The speed of the belt is controlled from the console of the treadmill. As you raise your speed by 1/10 mile per hour, the motor subtly increases the power it is generating to the rollers, much as a hair dryer does less subtly as you click from medium to high. For runners, look for a treadmill that provides a speed of at least 12 miles per hour and allows an elevation of at least 10 percent. That will give you the opportunity to include some speed work and hill training in your workouts.

More Features

• Some treadmills come equipped with iPod ports, built-in TVs, drink holders, cooling fans, computer-generated workouts and heart-rate monitors. The computer workouts will build in elevation-change programs, and you can punch in the starting speed of your workout and change it manually. Treadmills also allow you to create programs in which you can choose both the speed and elevation changes. Heart-rate monitors calculate your heart beats per minute and can be operated continuously using chest or arm bands or intermittently using a finger clip or by gripping a sensor on the front rail with one hand. But none of these features outweighs the importance of choosing the right belt and motor for your workout.

Safety

• Make sure the treadmill has a safety release---usually a magnetic key---so you can stop the exercise belt dead in the event of an injury or other emergency. The treadmill is wired so that the key must be in place on or near the console to complete the electronic circuit and allow the machine to operate. Yet the key can easily be yanked free, immediately stopping the drive motor and putting the brakes on the exercise belt.

Some treadmills seize themselves (burnout) because their floor belt works (runs) dry to the point where the motor has to strain in rotating the floor belt, into it gets hotter and burns out or it may burn out the electronics that control its speed. One of the problem in relation to this kind of burn out is the lack of floor belt lubrication. So, when was the last time you ever lubricated the floor belt with the appropriate lubricant, such as silicone spray? I have an electric treadmill of 9 years and it still runs like new. Why? Because before I use it to walk, jog or run, I apply a couple of evenly sprayed squirts under the floor belt where it makes contact with the smooth steel base. Lightly spraying on the base up and down and evenly from side to side, just a couple of seconds of short sprays to lubricate the floor belt base (do not over spray or you'll have lubricant everywhere on the floor/carpet. You can spray it on a lint-less cloth outside the house then go back to the treadmill, lift the floor belt with your fingers and smear the moisturised cloth evenly on the base) and then give it a little power to make the belt slowly rotate so that the overall belt is lubricated, run it for half a minute before beginning to exercise on it. This should make the belt run smooth for a month without straining the motor, depending on how often it is used. I use it one hour each day, 4 days per week besides other gym training.

Go to http://support.nordictrack.com/ and click on the CHAT link near the top of the page. They should be able to talk you through it.

Do you have the iFit component on your treadmill? We had a similar issue and I unplugged the iFit component (requires opening the console and unplugging the ribbon cable that attaches the iFit component) and the treadmill started working again.

Do you have another magnetic object around it? That may cause the treadmill to work without the safety key.

Hey Carlos Did you remove any wire on the incline motor anytime? if so then see that the + and - leads were connected to the correct pins. If not then switch them as this would affect the polarization of the motor. If they were never removed (and is in correct position) then you might be looking at a faulty console board. Some models have separate boards, so open the console and check... get it replaced and it should be fine.

start by putting the new belt on the front roller and then put on the motor pulley bottom. its going to be tight so just try to start it and then roll the pulley around with ur hand until it gets on the pulley