Put your carrier on a pair of saw horses and clamp down firmly then open the lid as it now stable and clamp your strut with a wide jaw wood clamp. Apply just enough pressut to start the ball into the socket and finish with your hands. Steve Parks
With the box open, loosen and remove the screws at the mounting points. There should be at least 4 mounting points, each has 2 screws I believe. You may want to have an extra person to help lift the box off your vehicle without accidentally scratching your vehicle.
Spray some WD-40 into the keyhole in the lock and wait a few minutes for that to set in. Then try to turn it again. If that doesn't work, the lock cylinder may not be inserted completely. Use the removal specific "key" that comes with Thule locks to pull the lock cylinder out, then reinsert the cylinder completely before removing the removal "key".
As you know when a solid piece of material is damages, the structural integrity of the item is damaged, and it doesn't help that ABS is a very unfogiving material. I see Cartop Carriers all over my city with scuffs on them because the things are simply easy to forget that they are even up there!
In my research on your issue I found a material that should fix your cracked carrier and ensure that you will have many more years of enjoyment with it.
To answer your question, Fiberglass is not the proper material to use on ABS. Fiberglass is essentially a "Band-Aid" on ABS because the bond will only last a couple of years.
For this job you will need to use a compound called "Re-Plast" manufactured by the automotive parts company Wurth.
The benefit of Re-Plast is that it hardens into a plastic that bonds well with ABS, and it bonds FAST! So work quickly.
The Re-Plast will give your carrier a "scar" but should patch up your crack and increase your structural integrity. The good thing about Re=-Plast is that if you want to, you can paint over it to match your carrier's coat, to conceal the "scar" even better!
You can order Re-Plast directly from Wurth on their website link that is found below.
I believe the silver is paint over black ABS; if so, my repair may help you.
A large (8 metre) branch fell on my Thule box splitting the upper carcass in many directions (both seams and field areas), in addition to the complete break of a front lower segment. I decided to try and fix it despite finding a replacement. Well I have to say, it worked out great, and it did not involve expensive epoxy, adhesives, hot air welders, or any of the methods most commonly referred to. Thule's cargo boxes are made from ABS plastic. The same black plastic material used for your household domestic waste plumbing systems. Rather than use foreign (non-ABS) material as your binding agent, simply use ABS. By keeping the joint material native, you are essentially re-establishing the continuity of the original material.
Take a small piece of ABS pipe (any scrap will do, just ensure it's ABS -- will say on the side) and grind it down in shavings. I used a rotary cutting tool with a bit that looks like a common router bit for rabbit joinery. This resulted in very small shavings. Accumulate enough shavings and place in a small glass jam jar with a lid. I had to cover roughly 1.5 metres in crack length and found ABS shaving volume equal to a couple marsh mellows to be plenty. Here's the magic.... pour a small amount of Acetone into the jar and stir the contents (do it outside as it fumes) -- add more as needed just to get it to the consistency of carpenter's glue.
After you have bound the cracked segments of your Thule from the outside (I used rubberized packing tape as it has great horizontal field strength but can be removed easily). The tape up job doesn't have to be pretty, just ensure the edges are tight together and the tape is firmly holding it tight. On the inside, use a rotary cutting tool and any cutting bit to grind a trough directly where the cracks are. I went down approximately 3 millimetres and across approximately 8 mills. I left it rough to the touch. Clean the trough with Isopropyl alcohol; let dry.
Using a small paint brush (ones you find in elementary school water colour paint kits are fine) "paint" the trough with the dissolved ABS from your jar. The advantage here is the Acetone in the mixture dissolves the edge of your trough so both the slurry (your mixture) and the hard carcass body are naturally bonding. As you might imagine, the Acetone will evaporate leaving nothing behind but ABS -- as hard as the original, fully bonded to the original material. Once dried, apply additional coats to build up the trough to your preferred profile.
Remove the tape on the outside and you're set. You could apply some sealant to the outer surface of the cracked area, but I did not as keeping it clean to look at on the outside is difficult when adding to the perfectly smooth outer surface.
It depends on many things. How descriptive your question is. Did you include full make model (what it is)? Many people give no clue so the Experts just pass them over. In most cases, within an hour, sometimes in minutes, sometimes in 24 hours. Also, this site is north American, so if you are in Australian, you are half a day ahead, if you are in the UK you are 5 hours ahead.
It's pretty basic and old school on all 550's and 380's unplug the back of the ignition ( it will now start without the key using the pull cord) remove the rubber boot from the ignition and unscrew the nut holding the ignition. Don't know why it needs replacement they pretty much never fail my 09 gtx 550 has over 12k and no problem except freezing occasionally.
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