20 Most Recent Mongoose MGX Maxim Dual Suspension Mountain Bicycle - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Line it up by twisting the headset sideways, tighten the bolt head on top. It's either a 13mm end wrench or a 6mm allen wrench.

That serial number is a way for the manufacturer to know when and where it was made, maybe by whom. At any rate this was made in China if it's fairly new. You would have to email the company to get any knowledge on this. Good Luck!

Usually the nut on the rear brake caliper is a 10mm. Loosen the nut and the caliper should spring open. Pull on the cable housing where it touches the caliper and it should pull out of the cable clamp that you loosened to start the process. Pull the cable housing off of the cable. Look at the cable and see if it is rusty. If it is then replace it. There is a good chance that the cable housing is rusty inside of it as well, it's a good idea to replace it too. Go to your favorite bike supply store and get a replacement cable and housing that is longer than the one you removed. When you get back to working on the bike , remove the cable from the housing, if it has an end on both ends of the cable cut the one off that you don't need. Once you have the cable removed from the housing pick up the cable housing, compare it to the original housing and cut the new one the same length as the original. Thread it back into the holders on the bike as the old one was. Now install the cable onto the bicycle. Let the new cable protrude out of the housing, thread it into the cable clamp that you loosened in the beginning, squeeze the caliper together and pull on the cable. Now that you are holding the cable tight with one hand take the 10mm wrench and tighten the clamp. Project finished.

On the right hand side of the crank or oppisite side of the front sprocket should be a 1 1/8 lock nut remove lock nut an washer should be an ajustable race with two holes known as a spanner race tighten up the race reinstall washer an lock nut tourqe down lock nut rotate crank making sure bearings dont drag an done If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_c7b5aba9012a13b2

Impossible to tell you with out seeing the brake.

However, the brake can be repaired. I would suggest taking into your local bike shop so they can assess what is causing the sticking brake, it could be a very simple fix, such as adjusting the spring tension, to a more complicated fix that involves replacing broken parts. Some brake systems do not have available replacement parts and in those cases you would have to replace, but that is less common.

If you can, take off your front wheel and prop the bike up so you can see the brake working while you squeeze the lever, see if the pads move in and out. that is the first step to diagnosis. If they don't return, then look for a round adjustment knob on the side of the brake and see if that moves the pads in or out, if that knob does nothing that is most likely your problem.

You'll need to take it to a welding shop to have it properly repaired. Look at how much a similar "used" aluminum bike frame cost, then use that as a gauge to set a cost limit. Say for example a similar used bike frame cost $100 from a bike shop. If the welder charges $80 or more, then you might as well spend the extra $20 and replace the cracked bike frame instead of getting it welded. Of course, you'll need to take the parts off the cracked bike frame and transfer them to the used bike frame, assuming you know how to do it yourself. If you need to pay a bike shop to do the job, then having the welder repair the crack is cheaper.

There are bearings on both sides, you need a special tool to remove the crankshaft.I'd suggest you get someone who knows how to do it,give you a hand. The tool can be purchased at any bike shop. not sure for how much. Good Luck.

mine use to do that too, try lock tight in the nut after tightin on the nut make sure you put enough and make sue its tight it works till you need to take the pedal off it worked for mine