First, locate the defrost timer which may hidden behindcorners of the fridge at the back bottom, in some models located in the ceilingof the fresh food section or behind the cold control cover. Once you locate thedefrost timer, slowly turn the screw in the middle of the defrost timer withstraight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. Now it's in defrost. If thedefrost heater(s) starts, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. Ifthe heater(s) does not start, unplug wire cord to check ohm test for continuityof heater. If continuity is there, plug cord wire which gives power 120volts(check specification) to heater. If heater no starts, bypass defrost thermostatby join the 2 wires in the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replacethe defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, replaceit. Thanks and hope helpful.
With a top freezer the cold air comes from the freezer down into the fridge. It uses a fan to blow the air down. It's possible that the fan is burned out. Does the fan come on if you turn the temp. to the fridge to colder? If not, then that may be the problem. The fix is not too easy, but can be done by an experienced do-it-yourselfer.
Brenda I may just have an awenser for you in the link here=> Leaking Refrigerators Just What may Be Happening
Reason I say may have an answer is because I am like
yourself when it comes to technical information when it comes outside the USA.
Maybe a good thing in the long run because at the least I may get more communication
from your spare parts suppliers. Anyway most refrigerators that show these symptom
once the defrost drain begins to freeze over or because the drain line becomes
clogged with gunk or slime. I have much more on this page=> Leaking Refrigerators!Please play the movie below or
those links below for a simple demonstration of how to clear the drain lines. If you have questions please ask and if
helpful please rate this solution, Thank You, Sea Breeze
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Angela, You should not be limited to put unfrozen stuff in the freezer and enginner "solution" is not accepted as well.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils and it usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost about four times on 24 hour period. In case that one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails (defrost timer,defrost thermostat or defrost heater)the refrigerator will continue to try to cool, but the quantity of frost builds up on the evaporator coils will prevent the circulating fan to draw air over the coils and with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Since your refrigerator is still under warranty, you should insist for a complete solution !!!!
Good luck !
With a high end fridge like that, it may be a variable speed fan with a speed controller circuit.
Unplug the fridge from the mains, and spin the fan by hand. If it spins freely, there is likely no issues with the possible exception of the start / run capacitor. Disconnecting it will also effect a power reset on the control board.
https://www.google.com/search?q=aeg+electrolux+santo+78763+replace+condenser+fan
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I don't see any door switch or sensor in the electrical diagram; maybe it's mounted on one of the circuit boards and is operated by a mechanical actuator. On most refrigerators, that's near the top of the door.
From what you describe, maybe you should check for a warped door or a loose, bent or worn door hinge.
If your Electrolux Icon ice maker is not receiving water and there is no power going to the water inlet valve, there are several possible causes:
Faulty water inlet valve: The water inlet valve is responsible for controlling the flow of water into the ice maker. If it's faulty, it may not be opening to allow water to enter the ice maker. You can check the valve for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it's faulty.
Frozen water line: If the water line leading to the ice maker is frozen, it may prevent water from reaching the ice maker. You can thaw the water line by turning off the power to the refrigerator and allowing it to thaw naturally or using a hair dryer to gently thaw the line.
Faulty ice maker: If the ice maker is not sending the signal to the water inlet valve to open, it may be faulty. You can test the ice maker by manually advancing it to see if it completes a cycle and sends the signal to the water inlet valve.
Wiring or control board issue: If there is no power going to the water inlet valve, there may be a wiring issue or a problem with the control board. You can test the wiring for continuity and check the control board for any visible signs of damage or burning.
If you're unsure how to proceed, it's recommended to consult a qualified appliance repair technician to diagnose and repair the issue.
and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
