20 Most Recent Hotpoint Ariston AW125 Washer Questions & Answers

my hotpoint wmpf-742 machine,been told bearings have gone,just need to know,if it has a sealed back,if it has,also been told to scrap it??

If they instructions say to remove the shipping screws/bolts then they are the 4 larger one on the rear of the if you do not remove it will shake and possibly do damage to the unit and or scratch the floor.

F10 indicates the pressure switch isn't sensing a change in the water level.



Unplug the appliance and take the top off.

The pressure switch should be on the left near the top.

Take the thin tube attached to it off.

Blow as hard as you can down the tube for as long as you can.

Give the pressure switch a couple of good taps with your screwdriver handle.

Refit the tube and try the machine again.



Ensure the wiring and plug to the pressure switch are good.



If your hotpoint washing machine is not working and you feel it needs repairs and you are getting the E10 or F10 error code, this means there is NO cold fill and you should check and verify that the taps are on and that the hoses are not kinked.

The first thing to check is the taps, most machines will have the hot and cold fill supply plumbed via a hot and cold inlet valve placed under a sink or directly behind the machine, it is usually a silver valve with the Blue and some times a red flexible hose connected to it, the blue should be cold and if there is a red that will be the hot supply.

In the on position, the plastic switch located on the side of the in let vale should be pointed in the same direction as the arrow on the valve and in the off position it should be pointed across the valve, if it looks off, especially if your valve is under a sink where pots, pans, boxes and other item can get pushed up against it and could turn it off by accident, simply turn it back on, but do not force it, as forcing it could break it, and that could lead to a flood situation.

If the valves looks OK, but the washing machine is still not working and you still get the E10 or F10 error message, you now need to check for a kinks in the pipes, this will probably mean pulling the washing machine out from its housing to continue the repair.

At this stage you need to take in to consideration the fact that the washing machine will be heavy and connected to both the mains electrics and mains water supply and also that putting the machine back properly can often be harder than taking it out.

If you are unsure, you would be best advised to call a engineer, if you are not willing to pull the washing machine out you could still also check any part of the inlet flexible hose pipes that you can easily see, like in the cupboards and also to the side of the washer, if you see any kinks, you could try to remove the kink and test the machine again.

Error codes are usually machine specific and the diagnosis given here is for the hotpoint unit only, do not relate this diagnosis or error code meanings to any other make of washing machine




Thanks for using FixYa$%^

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

2 things - out of balance and new belt required it appears. I don't know your particular machine but I'm going to assume it is a front loader(?),Following are my guidance notes for both, hopefully curing both ;-0)
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I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)

Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning but I've not had any feedback of this nature.
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Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
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Good luck,

John C

You can ususally take your Hotpoint washing machine out of DEMO MODE by holding down both the ON/OFF button and the START/RESET button at the same time for about 3 seconds.The display should then indicate D OFF.If this procedure does not work for your particular machine, then please just comment back and be sure to include the exact model number of your washer next time so we can provide the appropriate procedure for your appliance. Good luck.

Certainly! Here's a concise response for the forum discussion: To clear the Hotpoint dishwasher FDYF 11011p Fault F01, you can follow these steps:

1. Power Reset:
   • Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it.
   • Wait for about 10 minutes.
   • Plug it back in and restart.
2. Check Door Lock:
   • Ensure the door is securely closed.
   • Check for any obstructions in the door lock mechanism.
3. Inspect Wiring:
   • Examine the wiring for any visible damage.
   • If you're comfortable, check the connections and reseat them securely.
4. Temperature Sensor:
   • Fault F01 may be related to the temperature sensor. Verify its condition and connections.

If the issue persists, it's advisable to consult the Hotpoint dishwasher manual or contact customer support for further assistance. Hope this helps!

The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard. Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine. No model details given but there is help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode

Visit page no 6 of user manual Instruction manual for Hotpoint WMTF 722 H Top Loading Washing Machine - White (Argos Product 380/7365) (argos-support.co.uk) It may help you.

Doing things like that seldom works, but if is is cheap, try it. Your motor is here including new from Whirlpool. Welling electronic control motor HXGM1L.52 https://www.google.com/search?q=Welling+electronic+control+motor+HXGM1L.52 ..

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again. Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks. If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker. The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips. To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty. If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet. If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets. Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Cogs possibly bad.. Check this article..... https://www.fuseami.com/how-to-fix-hotpoint-washer-that-wont-agitate/ Parts link and 877 Tech help #. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=htw240ask5ws&page=3 Another Parts house and 800# Tech Help. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/47-95-2297136-/New/Hotpoint-Washer-Won-T-Spin-Or-Agitate-HTW240ASK5WS I would give the above guys @ repairclinic call before throwing parts at it. Their very helpful..either one of them. . Repair clinic or appliancepartspro. I'm not accociated with either of them. I've just used them for repairing appliances in some rental units and my house and they've always been helpful. Best to you

They melt due to high resistance across the solenoid and contacts. My only thought it that they were not genuine OEM replacements and were copies on eBay or Amazon and sourced in China. also follow the wires back to the control board and clean the contacts there. https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+wml520+door+switch I can only find one other incidence of a door lock melting and it is here on Fixya. https://www.fixya.com/support/t29905283-ve_got_hotpoint_washing_machine_model https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+wml520+door+switch+melting+problem ....

Typical Landlord comment. It is a totally electronic machine. They a power reset. Pull the mains plug when you go to bed, press and hold the power button as you plug it back it back in. Here is the manual if you need it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/71052/Hotpoint-Wmf740-G-A-K.html ..

in front of door

I have a wdal8640, after a while the condenser pipe gets all fluffed up. Remove the lid, the cross bar and unscrew the metal heating unit. You're looking for the plastic tube that bends down the back of the machine. There's a ring holding it on at the bottom, once you've undone that and worked it over the prongs on the filter it should lift straight out. Give it a good rinse and remove any stuck lint (mine was a solid block that I had to break up before I could get it out), clear the filter whilst your in there and stick it all back together. Don't forget to reattach the water pipe to the top corner!!!

Based on the description, it seems that the control PCB module is a possible cause of the issue with your washing machine. Checking for any signs of burnout on the PCB would be a good next step. However, keep in mind that handling electronics can be dangerous and if you're not comfortable or familiar with the process, it's better to seek the help of a professional.

That sounds like you are on Pause or Delayed Start. Try Pressing and holding the button. You can also try disconnecting from the mains for 5 minutes. When in doubt, read the manual :>D START/PAUSE button with indicator light: starts or temporarily interrupts the wash cycles. N.B. To pause the wash cycle in progress, press this button; the corresponding indicator light will flash orange, while the indicator light for the current wash cycle phase will remain lit in a fixed manner. If the DOOR LOCKED indicator light is switched off, the door may be opened. To start the wash cycle from the point at which it was interrupted, press this button again. and also ! If the START/PAUSE indicator light (orange) flashes rapidly at the same time as the function indicator light, this indicates a problem has occurred (see "Troubleshooting"). https://manualzz.com/doc/50330217/hotpoint-fdl-9640p-uk-instruction-for-use ..