20 Most Recent Hotpoint Ariston WD440G Front Load All-in-One Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

Unplug the machine from the wall for 5 minutes, then plug it back in and try it again. If the lights come back, the control board needs to be replaced.

check door shut properly

The NTC for the dryer is situated on top of the dryer heater box, fault can often be caused by a simple broken wire, they are very weak at this point.its the sensor on the dryer if you take off the top, its mounted on top of the dryer box, usually has a white plug with 2 black wires attached

Sounds like you have a stuck button on the display.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Bad odours could be coming from a few places (for yours I would suspect water still in drum!).

1. the plumbing u-bend of the washer's room or
2. the fact that there is 'foul' water being left in the drum.
3. No washes at 90 degree+ !

I would suggest checking the plumbing u-bend for trouble first, then following the notes on checking and cleaning the drain filter and the drain pump to ensure there is nothing 'obnoxious' hanging around the two of them! Finally run the occasional 90+ wash to kill bacteria.
Here are my complete and general guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

Hi Bev from retired Englishman in SW France,

I hope you don't mind me saying so but often the softener dispensing siphon tube gets missed when cleaning the dispenser 'cos it's difficult to see!----------->
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.

If this isn't the problem it could be that the water dispensing is not working correctly. It is easy to check by selecting (final?) rinse, pulling the drawer slightly out and seeing and hearing whether water is being fed into the softener tray. If is isn't then it is a call-out ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Check that broken parts having any wire connections. if it is not there try to stick it without damaging the drum .

The flashing lights are an error code (Which I can't quite figure, but I believe ARE associated with a blocked filter. Is it possible that the slime and mess extended beyond the filter?

Before you go throwing the machine away, Unplug it from the mains (NOT just turn it off) to allow the machine to reset and while it's unplugged, stuff your garden hose up the waste water pipe and turn it on full blast to blow any remaining debris out of the way. (Wrap a towel over the end of the pipe to soak up the spliiage as one will not fit neatly into the other).

As the Dr Pepper ad says - "What's the worst that could happen?"

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
If it's not cured by carrying out the following GET THE TECHIE BACK IN! He/She has not fixed the fault you have paid for, plus you will have been charged for an item which the washer- and you- did not require- which would be shocking (I'm English!!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
Here are my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking filters and motors ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hi, this is normal for a washer dryer, water isn't actually going in, it is condensating and then being pumped away.

when you use the dryer program your are only meant to put half the washing load or less in at a time if there is too much wet washing in the machine it will take forever to dry as it cant get rid of the amount of condensation quick enough so some of it is reabsorbed into the clothes and so it goes on.

so the trick is only to put in a maximum of half the full washing load.

Hope this helps.

Replace the C17 capacitor on the PCB. 56p from Maplin. Get a 1000uf 16v. Works a treat. Common problem.

I an sorry to say that you will find it very difficult to obtain a wiring diagram for your model washer, as the manufacturer does not let these become available except to their own enginners, however, if you can let me know what it is you need to know, I may be able to help.

you need to check Heater element it should read about 32 ohms if ok on a multimeter, next the thermostat should be closed circuit, any loose wires....Hope this helps.