Top 10 Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model front loading washers. If you experience a problem where the door becomes jammed and will not unlock or open, here's an easy way to gain access inside your washer WITHOUT calling the repairman.

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement.


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Remove the bottom panel under the door to access the drain pump. Make sure the washer is unplugged before servicing the pump. The pump will be located under the wash tub in the front of the washer. There should be a small access cover that can be unscrewed to access the inside of the pump. If not, remove the inlet hose to access the pump impeller. HINT: Pull the drain hose from the standpipe and use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain line. This will pull any remaining water out of the drain lines and wash tub. This will minimize the amount of water that spills out of the drain pump when you remove the access cover.

It does not take much to damage this small drain pumps. If you clean the pump thoroughly and it still exhibits drain problems, the manufacturer recommends replacing the pump.

If you require additional assistance, let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you.

We have the exact same washing machine, and the same problem. we will need to lift the front of your washer up and undo the bolts to the front cover. you will see a white round turn nob, this is the filter unscrew it (you kight plug your nose) and empty all contents, replace, screw the front plate back on and you are good to go!

Hope this helps, i wish someone would of helped us!!

good luck

The rl code is displayed when the control detects a load of clothes in the washer during the clean washer cycle.

This code should only come up when you're trying to run a clean cycle.

There can be two causes for this message if there are no clothes in the washer while you're running the clean washer cycle.

The most serious cause of the problem would be the spin bearing. Try and turn the basket by hand and see if you fill any restrictions.
The basket can drab because of the bearing or because there are clothes between the spin basket and outer tub.

Turn the basket by hand and see if you notice anything.

You can also try to remove the belt and run the clean cycle and see if the problem repeats. If the code doesn't repeat with the belt off and there is nothing between the tub and spin basket most likely the spin bearing will have to be replaced. The bearing is part of the rear half of the tub and will require a complete tear down to change.


The rL error code during the clean cycle is likely caused by friction on the spin basket shaft since you indicate that you hear squeaking when the washer is spinning.

The squeaking is normally caused by a bad bearing in the rear tub shell.

I recommend that you have the washer diagnosed and repaired by a Sears service technician.

This type of problem will normally require an extensive tear down of the washer to repair.

It is not a problem that you can normally repair yourself.

Open the door & slowly rotate the spin basket to see if you can feel any kind of drag on the bearings.

If the bearings check good, the control board is sensing a load & will need to be replaced.

If the message rl repeats with the belt off then the most likely cause of this problem is the machine control board.


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You will need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door to gain access to the inside cabinet to see where the leak may be coming from. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.

NOTE: Propping the two front feet of the washer up with something (a 2x4 works well for this) will give you better access to the screws.

The most common source of leakage on this washer is the rubber bellow around the door. It can develop cracks or tears over time and require replacement. A tell-tale sign is the front counterweight (looks like a concrete block on the front of the wash tub) looking wet. The counterweight will remain dry if the tub is sealed properly. From the inside of the washer, pull the rubber folds back on the door bellow and inspect the perimeter for any rips or tears. If the bellow is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385211-replacing_door_bellow_whirlpool_duet

If the bellow is intact, check the rear bellow seal where it connects to the front of the wash tub. If the clamp comes loose the bellow can shift and begin to leak. Tighten if necessary.

Check the drain pump and hoses to ensure they are not leaking. The drain pump is directly in the front under the wash tub.

Check the area directly below the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the wash tub iteself, you may have a bad tub seal. A replacement gasket doesn't cost much at all, but the labor involved is extensive.
Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There should be a small air hose attached that runs all the way to the pressure switch. This small air hose is how the pressure switch senses the pressure differential in the wash tub and determines when to shut the water off. If the air hose comes loose, water will pour out of the air dome into the cabinet bottom. Reattach if necessary.

Another simple problem is the dispenser tube(s) that come through the door bellow. Sometimes, these small tubes will work their way behind the rubber in the door and leak when the washer attempts to fill or rinse. This is a simple matter of adjusting the tubes to ensure they are seated through the door gasket properly.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: You can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some excellent exploded view diagrams of your washer for reference in locating components. If y

5d is a definitely a the code for a plugged discharge. We removed the lower access panel and discovered a virtual treasure: $12.50 in quarters, nickels, dimes and pennies, a pen, a pencil, collar stays, 10 bobby-pins, 3 barrettes, a elastic headband, a draw string, a box cutter, 3 washers, 3 broken zipper parts, a elastic waist band. Amazing it took all to trigger a 5d error code. Hope this helps!

The "F24" error code is a heat sensor error code. The following link explains the error code in detail and the steps to correct it:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r1976126-f24_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

In many cases, the connector plug on the NTC sensor wiggles loose and causes the error code. Check the NTC connection first to make sure it is tight and making good contact. This may save you a service call and/or replacement parts. Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before servicing anything inside the unit.

A replacement NTC module (if required) can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com for about $10. Refer to the parts illustrations under the "Tub and Basket Parts" heading.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Each washer comes with a technical data sheet located inside the cabinet. You will need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door to access it. If it is not located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. The tech sheet includes all troubleshooting tips, wiring diagrams and fault codes with explanations.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

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F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

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Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

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Go to YouTube with your model number,make,bearings change.