Make sure there isn't anything binding the deck belt or blades. Check the spindles for free movenent. If all that is good then it might be the linkage that is supposed to adjust the throttle when the engine is under load or it might be a carb issue...especially if you run ethanol gas in it.
there should be two drive belts. they should be replaced both at the same time. if one is wore so is the other one. use the correct belt, from a lawn mower parts store.
Loosen the cable clamp at the linkage at the carburetor and remove the cable end from the linkage. The throttle lever housing has 2 locking tabs on both sides. You might have to use a screw driver to depress the tabs. While depressing one tab at a time push the lever housing up until removed.
If you have to put oil in the engine, that would be an important assembly. They usually don't ship mowers with oil installed but oil is in different package for you to install.
sounds like your choke is not shutting all the way. Throttle pushed all the way up should shut the choke, if you can look into the intake of the carb to see if the butterfly is shut and if not loosen the cable sheath clamp and side the cable until it does shut it and make sure the lever is still in the full throttle position
Bernice, could be dead battery, faulty fuse,solenoid or starter.
Have a technician check/diagnose and give estimate of repair.
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Because the gas tank is under the seat there just about has to be a lift pump to feed the carburetor. On your tractor setting in the seat on the left hand side above the valve cover bolted to the flywheel shroud. It is a vacuum pump, not mechanical or electric. If you follow the rubber gas line to the tank you should also find a fuel filter .
it is cranking but not running is the correct terms
there are several safety micro switches on the mower and all have to be in the correct positions to get it to run
seat -- you have to be in the seat
brake --you have to have your foot on the brake
blade drive --you have to have the drive in neutral
oil in the sump--- oil level switch is off if no oil in sump
There would have been an operators manual with the new machine so read it fully first as it not a case of get on and go
Informative post, well done; for a more tailored answer include the Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size.
A mechanically functional (meaning all the internal parts are working, i.e. pistons, valves, etc) engine requires 3 things, compressed air, fuel, and spark; all at the right time.
Based on the newness of your machine and the very short run time (minutes, with 24 hour recovery), I would start with tracking down a fuel problem. Due to the low hours there should not be a compression or spark issue. First I will share my standard process of elimination for fuel problems.
Tracking down fuel problems.
Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank. High Octane less than one month old. Water in the fuel system will often cause hard starting, low power, backfiring, surging or stalling.
Is there a cut off valve at the gas tank? If so check that it is open or working if it is electric. (No cut off at tank on the D140)
This step comes from repeated personal experience with JD gas tanks. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. (Look at the filter before removing it; it should look ¾ full of fuel. If it's not that's a clue to fuel flow problems) If gas does not pour out remove the gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. The vent is that tinnnny little hole in the center of the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out any blockage inside the gas tank. Do your self a favor, leave the gas cap off and turn the outlet air on your compressor down below 20 psi. If the tank is nearly full you will blow gas out of the tank. Do this outside if possible; at the very least you need a well ventilated area.
After blowing air from the air filter back to the tank, you may have to reverse the process and pressurize the tank to get the fuel started. I place my hand over the open tank and hold the air hose between the joint of my thumb and forefinger to seal the tank, and then squeeze the trigger. Once you have a good fuel flow out the line to the filter, put on a FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the fuel pump and carburetor.
Check the fuel pump.The fuel pump system on the twin Koehler and the Twin Briggs (and others) are almost identical. Watch this excellent, eight minute, video to learn how to check the fuel system, including the pump, up to the carburetor. . Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...
Note: My engine was starting hard (sometimes not at all) and dying in the field this year. While doing a valve adjustment, I found a hairline crack in the bend of the vacuum hose powering the fuel pump. It's the short hose running from the valve cover to the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not work if this hose is cracked.
Many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on. If it does not click you will have to replace it or track down an electrical problem.*
If this has not solved the problem you may have to remove and disassemble, clean, or rebuild the carburetor at this point. You may have water, dried fuel (varnish) or trash in the carburetor bowl. Before removing and disassembling the carburetor try draining the bowl. Or, take the bowl off, careful not to drop the small parts inside. Clean the bowl and replace. I often remove the bowl on small engines and save the hassle of a complete carb removal.
*NOTE: Connect a volt meter across the two battery posts. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel cut off solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good, and the voltage is still dropping, you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.
If you find this fuel checkup does not solve the problem, repost your question with updated info and I will walk you through the next step.Tracking down a spark problem; yes, your problem could involve the coil. (Not as likely as fuel)
Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...
Have you checked the oil level in the transmission? If it's correctly full, the hydraulic pump may have failed. Also check the main drive belt, of course.
It is starter trouble but before buying a new one take it off and check the drive gear and see if it's got worn or bad teeth. Mine gave me trouble and the gear drive was shot. I got the gears replaced and bingo now it works and for a very cheap fix. Check all battery cable ends for being loose or dirty as well. Bad connections can do that as well..
Yes. The ignition switch uses two contacts for start/run. START position energizes the fuel shutoff relay which feeds back into itself to create a self latching state. The RUN position allows the self latch to continue until no longer in the RUN position (OFF), which interrupts the self latch thereby cutting off fuel. So you need to determine why the ignition switch RUN position doesn't maintain the fuel relay self latch state.
See following URL for wiring diagram https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/john-deere-5400.271168/
John Deere X300 X304 X320 Service Repair Manual X324 X340 X360 This original John Deere Lawn Tractor manual is a detailed file and it is illustrated with clear step-by-step instructions.
John Deere X300 X304 X320 Service Repair Manual
There are several possible causes for this, such as:
A loose or disconnected spark plug wire
A faulty or dirty spark plug
A clogged or faulty fuel system
A broken or chafed wire from the starter
A bad voltage regulator or battery
A malfunctioning safety switch or ignition switch
You wll have to check each one of these, clean what is dirty, replace what is broken or clogged, make sure the spark gat is .76 mm if you change the plugs. You will need a multimeter to check the voltage regulator.
Disconnect the three-wire connector from the voltage regulator.
Connect the jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the black wire terminal on the voltage regulator.
Connect the red probe of the multimeter to the red wire terminal on the voltage regulator, and the black probe to the jumper wire.
Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage and turn the ignition switch to the ON position. You should see a reading of about 12 volts. If not, the voltage regulator is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and disconnect the multimeter and the jumper wire.
Reconnect the three-wire connector to the voltage regulator and the negative battery cable to the battery terminal.
