20 Most Recent Goodman CLJ36AR42 Air Conditioner Questions & Answers

Hi,

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool...

Air Conditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

If you are sure of the power then ya have a control problem thermostat set correctly? could be open low pressure switch I would call for service. Tom

check breakers see ..if you have 240 volts and 24 volts to outside unit if you do replace contactor

you have to read that between red an common on secondary of transformer.

I think u mean 410 and no it cant

If your filter is dirty,the fan inside the house cannot push the cold air thru the evaporator, cool air cannot circulate, this will cause the compressor outside to over heat and even damage it and possible trip some fuses or circuit breakers, with these hotter days you want to change out your filters more often, changing out your filters more often will keep the evaporator cleaner and allow the cool air to flow, easier.good luck!

Yes, if you changed the three post capacitor that runs the fan and compressor, and the fan is still getting hot and shutting down until it cools off, you may have bushings out of the motor or an internal short. Sounds like you have a job ahead of you of changing your condenser motor. If you do this yourself just contact me I will step you through it . Mark

Remove power from the unit. Check the capacitor for the fan. It may be swollen and failed.
Today's motors use a capacitor which makes them use less energy. Older capacitors had PCB's in em and were outlawed. The newer ones seem to fail easier than the older ones.
If the capacitor is fine grab the shaft and wiggle it. Any lateral movement or sloppy movement more than a hair OR stiffness and that is a sign of bearing going out. Use zoomspout oil to lube the motor and work it free by hand if it is stiff. More Here
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello, this could be due to a lack of airlow or a low regrigerant charge. First check the air filter and make sure it is clean, make sure the blower motor wheel is clean and not dirty, also it would be a good idea to check tne evaporator coil and make sure it is clean. If the unit does not have any airflow problems most likely it is low on refrigerant due to a leak, in this case you will need a hvac tech to come out and repair the leak and charge the unit back up with refrigerant.

You have blown fuses or a tripped circuit breaker. The fuses should be right beside the outdoor unit on the side of the house. You will have to open a small door and pull out a cartridge. There will be two fuses in the cartridge. You can't visibly see a problem with them, and if you don't have an ohm meter to check them you will just have to change them both.
The breakers will be in your breaker box. The are usually 30 or 40 amp. There will be two joined together . You will need to trip them all the way back and then forward to reset. Hope this works for you.

Hi,

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool...

AirConditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

Hi Richard, this sounds to me that even though the unit is only 18 months old, that the bearings in the condenser fan motor are dry, or have some wear causing the squeal. I have replaced many of these motors over the years and they work very hard in the heat. If this is a Goodman Heat-Pump, it runs year around. You can remove the fan guard on top, turn off the breaker first, and give it a spin. See if it is tight or has some resistance. Look at the ends on the body of the motor housing for oil plugs. Some have them, and most have sealed bearings now. If it has plugs, you can oil the bearings and solve the problem if there not to bad. You can get a telescopic oiler called a zoom oiler at any hardware store for about $1.99. If the bearings are sealed, they will continue to get louder and the motor will freeze up and will cause the head pressure to rise and the unit will shut down on its head pressure switch or trip a breaker. If you replace the motor your self, the wiring can be difficult as it is connected to a dual run capacitor which starts and keeps it running up to speed. You can look at it and draw you a diagram of the colors of wires, and how and where they connect and make sure the appliance parts house sells you the same motor. Most of the time they will sell you a motor that has 2- brown leads, one has a white stripe down it, and it goes to its own capacitor they need to sell you. If this is the case, you will need to use the 2 brown wires on the new smaller cap, and the 2- colored ones that are high voltage to connect to the old cap and one to the load side of the contactor. You can ask them how you wire it at the parts house and they will show you. Its not to hard, just a couple of changes. If you don't want to take this on, you can call around to get a estimate at some a/c shops to do this. It should be around $150.00 give or take. Its about a hour and a half job, no more. I am sure this is your problem, as this is the only thing that would make this noise. Please rate me on this as I know you will be kind to me. Its worth changing out this motor as this unit has a lot of years left on it. This is just something that happens sometimes. I wish you the best, and will be here for you if you need me.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor
PS, the motor is 208/230 volts, probably a 1/3 h.p.as it is a 3 ton unit, and 1075 R.P.M. All of this along with the rotation of the motor will be on the sticker on the motor. Its also on the data plate on the unit its self, so get that info as well. The motor shaft is 1/2"x 6". Good Luck

Hi, this is a split system Goodman. With the j36 in the model number, that tells me it is a 3 1/2 ton unit. If the outdoor condensing unit is off and doing nothing at all, no fan on top running, no compressor or anything, it sounds as though you have lost power to it. The high voltage to the outdoor unit is seperate from the indoor unit. When it is not running, you have only warm air from the indoor unit. Before I have you do anything, go out to the unit. Take a water hose being careful not to bend the fins on the coil, and wash just the coil very good. If its dirty, it can cause the pressures in the system to rise very high and blow a fuse or trip a breaker. When you are done washing it, you should have a electrical box mounted on the wall that feeds power to this unit. First, find your main breaker box to your home. It should be where the meter is. Find it and it will have several different breakers in it. They may or may not be marked. Look for a double - pole 30 to 40 amp breaker that should say a/c, if it was marked. If not, look and touch them, it will be 2 breakers together and feel if they are tripped. If so, turn it off with a hard motion. Then, back on the same way. Watch to see if it holds and does not trip on you. If its ok, go to the outdoor unit. Make sure the thermostat is on auto/cool and turned way down for it to come on. If it was a breaker and its running, more then likely the dirt from coil caused it to over amp and trip. Now, if there is power and breaker is on but still not on, open the box at the unit. It may have a pull out type plug, or breakers. If it has a breaker, turn it off and on like the other. If it doesn't, behind a plastic panel you will have 2- fuses. Turn off power at main box breaker, and remove both fuses. They are cheap, so go get 2 at a hardware store and replace them. You can have them ohmed out to see if one was bad. After installing the new ones and you turn it on, and all is good, that was your problem. May sure you have power to this outside unit. If it was a blown fuse or tripped breaker and this continues to happen, you may have a internal compressor or condenser fan motor problem. Try the things I have said first. This may be the only problem you have. I do this for a living, 33 years and a licensed contractor. Please keep me posted and I will continue to help you if you need me. Let me know after you check everything.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7 :)

Hi,
The temp of the line going in can vary from unit to unit...
more important is the temperature of the return line going back to the condenser....the easiest way to describe it is what we call "beer can" cold....when you grab the big line at the condenser it should feel very cold... if not you have a problem...usually an under charge...

heatman101

You are probably hearing the compressor run, thats what is loud.
The compressor should cycle on and off to protect itself. You are
probably looking at replacing the fan motor.

Ifthe compressor comes on but no fan.
Feel of fan for excessive heat
Check fan for replacement.
Also check fan capacitor
If compressor and fan don't come on check voltage
and check double capacitor
If this was helpful please rate me.
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas
[email protected]

Not a DIY project. You'll need refrigerant recovery equipment, vacuum pump, manometer, refrigerant scall, refrigerant disposal bottles, high pressure nitrogen tanks and regulators, acetelyn tanks with regulators and torch tips not to mention EPA license. Call a reputable service company. In South Central PA, fair price range is $1,500 - 2,000. If the unit is more than 10 years ole, replace the condenser (if they can get one for your refrigerant) for about $1000 more.

Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. It will be more effiecent then what you have now. The blower is not putting out the correct amount of air because it is not taking in enough air. It can only out out what it puts in.