20 Most Recent Vivitek V37655 56" DLP TV Questions & Answers

hi ferrari,

changing the bulb isnt going to help. the t.v. is just one big disaster so you might as well rip someone else off just like vivitek has done to all of us. if the new owners tell you theres a problem with the t.v. tell them they must have messed it up during transportation. Thats what vivtek told us. =D

The ballast board that controls the lamp is bad.

theres a digital module that comes with the light engine..but your gonna spend some dough..probably only available with a complete light engine replacement..sry

Your color wheel drive motor is gone. So is all your money. No replacements parts are available to those who got those TV's. You got scammexd!

JUST BEHIDE THE LAMP

check for power supply board failure.

If its a DLP it may have a color wheel which could be your problem (the colors will change etc)Color wheels move at high speed and if slow down set will shut down.The wheel if there will face the lamp. If often if failing will make a high pitched whine or a fan like sound.

Google the brand or model to see "lamp" if it uses one and if available

First is it sounds like an odd issue--no power light but sound when turned on.A power outage may explain this--is it possible for you to see if the lamp (DLP uses a lamp) comes on at all even for a moment or not?If not and I was looking at it--remove the lamp and examine it to make sure it is not exploded inside.What bothers me is no power light!You may want (if able to do so) to unplug set and look inside--follow the power cord to the power supply board and look for a secondary fuse blown or even bad caps (photo attached).All sets have a standby power supply that runs 7/24 if the set is plugged in and caps (at about 2 years) can puff up there and cause problems. The beauty of this is you will be able to SEE any that are bad in this way--second photo is a good cap--top perfectly flat and not puffed up etc.Let me know what you find and if questions; I do this here for free and to help people.see typical puffed up on top capssee cap with perfectly flat top on it.

it is possible that it could be a simple contrast problem, however it is very possible that the pigmentation problem is caused by a genuine manufactures defects, I would say if it is bearable then try and live with it, if it is still under gaurentee or warranty then contact the store/manufacturer

Thomas,
I am not sure if this is what I experienced, but it won't hurt to take a look at what I did.

I had a similar problem.
My TV started to flicker and I put a new bulb in. The new bulb did not help, even if it is good to replace after a couple thousand hours.
I found out that my heat sink, which is sitting on the CPU with the mirrors came loose and the unit overheated and shut off after flickering a while.
Try to take the lower back panel off and you see a heat sink which is sitting in the center of a aluminum sheet metal piece. Disconnect the wires which are attached to the circuit board behind the sheet metal. Then take off the screws holding the sheet metal and pull it gently off. It will take a little force, but it does not damage anything. Now you see the heat sink on the circuit board held by a latch going across the heat sink.
On the upper right corner you will find the handle to open the latch. Once you did it , you can take the heat sink off and see the main CPU (as I took the latch off, my heat sink fell off).
On my heat sink the Heat Sink Compound Paste creating the connection between the CPU and the heat sink dried out and became brittle, son there was no connection anymore and the heat couldn’t be transported out through the heat sink, which is cooled by a fan on the left.
I took the brittle Heat Sink Compound Paste off and applied a generous portion of the one that I bought at Radio Shack. I used a Silicone-Base Heat Sink Compound which ran $4.99 excl. tax.
After applying the paste put the heat sink gently in and when you do, you will feel like a suction indicating that you have a connection between the CPU and the heat sink.
Now you need to put all parts back together.

If you are not familiar with electronics and those wires or wouldn’t hurt or would be wise to mark the connectors and to make pictures before removing them. This will save you a lot of frustration.

I hope this helps you and brings your TV back to life. My TV was cutting out after 25 minutes and runs now like a charm.
Good luck.

PS: If you experience a black screen with vertical stripes (mine were white and green) then most likely the light engine needs to be replaced, I had this after 9 months and got it fixed under warranty

Hi,

Problem is in either power supply or the Y-Sustain board.

The Y-Sustain is a relatively large board out of which go connections to the side of the display; it's therefore closer to either the left or the right side of the display, has at least one rather large heat sink on it and fat power cables connecting it to the main power supply.

Often there are fuses on that board - one or more. Check those.

if they are blown you can try to replace them, but expect them to blow again - usually the whole board needs to be replaced.

Take care in solving the problem....

Yes, the power board is clearly defective. You must replace it, it's beyond repair.
Either find a new one at a dealer (i couldn't find it online) or have it rebuilt by a company like
http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/

Hi ryser,
Pop sound is coming from the parts either on the ballast board(lamp's driver) or power supply(ballast board supply). It means that you're bulb is not the issue that's why you've not encountered the led lamp indicator. Check the ballast board for faulty electrolytic capacitor, blown fuse/fusible resistor, shorted ballast transformer. Also check the power supply parts like bulged electrolytic capacitor, shorted voltage regulator transistor. If you don't have necessary tools and test instrument and can't do the job yourself, I would advice you to look for an experienced technician to troubleshoot the problem.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

This happened to me also. I just made the deadline to receive a replacement lamp from Vivitek by 2 days, because of the warranty. If not, I would have had to pay $250. This happened in 2009. My replacement went out in Dec, 2010 and I can't find a replacement anywhere. Order a new lamp, hope this works.

your cable or satellite will do just fine. i have a vivitek rp51 and i was told that if i lost my remote i was SOT well i found out that the parent company of vivitek is DELTA and wouldn't you know it i programmed my direct tv remote using the brand delta wich was on the list and it worked... by the way vivitek is not on any list for remote control codes....

Vivitek is a no-name manufacturer that uses components ready-made by other manufacturers. In your case it has used old model boards from Daewoo so these are the codes you should try. If none of them work then indeed, only the original remote will work.
You should find it here
http://remotes.com/store/vivitek/rp56hd22a.html

This is a classic "Hic-upping" switchmode power supply problem. The protection circuitry inside the SMPSU, has sensed a severe potential problem, and is attempting the shutting of the set, down to avoid a fire, explosion, or both.
This set had developed a problem, that is so severe that the set must be shut down, (This set should be removed from the Power),
What is happening is the internal "Fault" that is causing the Protection Circuitry , to detect the problem and attempt to shut down the set, keeps restarting the set, because as soon as it shuts down, the "Faulty" component(s) cool down?, and the "Fault" ostensibly "Clears" so the PSU starts up again, only for the component(s) to heat up, whatever, again and fail, so it shuts down, and if left unattended, this would continue on until the part eventually failed. As related this is called a "Hic-upping Power Supply". Any fault that involves the power supply is usually quite serious, and needs a professional, usually, unless one is familiar with servicing current day, televisions.
And in my professional recommendation, you should get a "Quote" for repair, from, an, Approved Service Center. Now, this point is very important for a good result, Always contact, their "Local" or a, "Head Office" Vivitek, in your case. Ask them, for a referral to an authorised servicing center, where you ask for a "Quote". Now, when you get the information you want, then you can decide as to repair of replacement.
The reason we want an approved agent, is that way, all the engineers are trained on their own brand sets, they have seen almost all faults, and will get the job done quicker, and for less cost, and usually have parts on hand, also sometimes, there has been a service bulletin in issued and the repair may be subsided or even free. There are many, many, many reasons that display this symptom, one must work through the troubleshooting steps to isolate and identify, the Cause and repair that and any damage done.