Top 20 Haier HTQ21JABRS Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Here are all the parts listed for that refrigerator, Click Here=>

HSA04WNCBB HAIER 1.8CU. MINI REFRIGERATOR

By clicking on the part numbers in blue on the left should take you to where you may find those parts. If you have any questions please let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

If helpful please rate this solution...Thanks Again

The drain in the freezer behind back lower panel
needs opening. You can see it at the bottom of the back panel
underneath the evaporator coils. (The cold coils)
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
When the defrost melts the water it goes down the drain
If the drain is clogged with Ice or ? The defrost water
overflows into the ref. or freezer or on floor
Run Hot water in the drain until it clears or use a hairdryer.
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.
Be sure the BACK COVER is in place and hasnt been accidently removed.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html


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.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
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MORE TRICKS:
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS____
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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Leo Ponder
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Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
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Most overlooked dryer energy saving problem EVER!
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5739846-most_overlooked_dryer_energy_savingr
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REF THERMOMETERS TIPS

http://www.fixya.com/support/r10177561-second_biggest_refrigerator_energy

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Leo Ponder
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Excess moisture can be caused by a leaky door gasket or lack of circulation between the freezer and fridge. Make sure fan freezer is working and that the damper between the freezer and fridge is open.

Hi,
Uhhh... now you buy a new one....it can be fixed but it would cost more to fix it then a new one will cost you.

heatman101

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME If this was helpful

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hi,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Take care....

How To Test the Evaporator Fan The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer.
Caution: Before testing the fan, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver.

Remove any screws that secure the fan or fan housing so that you can access the fan's wiring. Typically two screws secure the mounting bracket in place (labeled "A" below). It may be easier to remove the entire rear panel if the mounting brackets screws are inaccessible.

Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should be replaced.
Test the fan for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be replaced

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

; '

Hello
Number 1 may be the warmest.Set it to 2 or 3 and give it some time,a couple of hours to level out.

If this does not work try a higher number.

If still no luck then the thermostat or sensing bulb is bad and should be replaced.

Hello
The drain pipe is blocked you will need to clean the pipe
Thanks

Top of Form

If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check this link for tips to work.

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

Hi,

If your refrigerator cooling doesn't seem to be working well, and you have no idea what to look for in troubleshooting your problem, there are some things you can do to try to figure out your problem without paying a serviceman to come into your home.
Freezing

Most new refrigerators come with automatic defrosters. Although this is a standard feature the drain hole in the defrosting assembly can get clogged with debris, lime, or even ice. If this happens the defrost will not work and there will be a build-up of ice in your freezer that begins to block the freon from flowing properly and causing heat to react improperly and cause your refrigerator to stop cooling.
Freon

Freon systems in a refrigerator are closed systems but on occasion you may need a recharge. Refrigerators use R-134a freon, just like in an automobile. The old R-12 freon is no longer available, so if you have an older model of refrigerator you will not be able to obtain the freon, and it will be recommended that you replace that refrigerator.
Seals

The seals that are on the door of the refrigerator and freezer can dry rot with time. When you begin to see the seals cracking or warping, if your refrigerator opens more easily than before, or if you see the the door does not close fully without pushing on the door then the gaskets around the doors will need to be replaced. They are held in place by clips and the replacement is an easy fix.
Holes in Lines

Let's face it, many people find ice in their freezer or the back of their refrigerator and will try some self-help without knowledge. They will grab a knife or fork and start chipping away at the ice. This is extremely dangerous. There is a great risk of puncturing a hole in the freon lines by stabbing at the ice. Since freon has the purpose of cooling most ice collects the thickest on the inside of the walls with the freon lines right behind the plastics. A better method of removing the ice is to empty your refrigerator, turn it off and leave the door open. If you want to speed up the process you can turn on a blow dryer and aim it at the edges of the ice. If you aim at the edges you will warm up the ice and create warm water which will flow down and help to separate the ice panel from the wall.
Uneven Refrigerator

If a refrigerator is not even on the floor it may not close properly. Rock your refrigerator and see if it seems to topple from one foot to another. The feet on a refrigerator can be adjusted by screwing in or out and leveling each foot individually until they are all even.
Non-Problem Warming

If your home is hot your refrigerator will work harder. If you put a lot of food in your refrigerator and freezer, your coolant will have to work harder, and it will seem to take longer to cool. It is just that there is a lot of food that is trying to freeze or maintain cool temperatures.


Good luck and Thanks

Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.

Hi,
7 will be the coldest..

heatman101

Hi erin_mcnally,

This complaint is usually the result of a defrost problem. The first thing to check in this case is the freezer area. Look at the back panel inside the freezer. If you notice frost covering the back panel, you have defrost problem.

Reminder: Unplug your appliance or disconnect power to your unit before you begin any repairs

If the problem is not a defrost issue you may have a problem with the damper that goes between the freezer and fridge compartments. This is usually an adjustable "flap" that opens to allow cold air from the freezer to enter the fresh food side. Most top freezer and certain side x side refrigerators have an adjustable flap. That means its set open at a certain point and doesn't open and close when the machine runs.

Most newer side by sides and bottom freezer refrigerators have an electric damper that opens and closes as the machine runs. These are machines that have separate thermostats for the freezer. The machine can call for cold inside the freezer without affecting the fridge side temp by keeping the damper closed.

To test this will require you to locate the damper assembly. Once you find the damper on your machine, make sure the thermostat is on and you hear the freezer fan running. Normally at this point you can feel the air coming through the vents on the damper. Certain models will close the damper when the fridge door is open. So you will have to hold in the light switch or tape it so the machine thinks the door is closed. After you do that and you still don't feel air, remove the damper cover. Check to see if the damper door is closed. If the door is closed, make sure it isn't froze shut. Manually open the door with your fingers to make sure it can move freely. If it can move freely then replace the damper. Sometimes some insulation or foam can fall into the path of the damper and cause it to jam. If you look inside the damper and it's open but you don't feel air, check your evaporator freezer fan.

The Freezer Fan should be running if the machine is not in defrost mode. If the refrigerator is warm and the compressor is running, the freezer fan should be running also. If not you are going to have to gain access to the freezer fan and check to see if it has 120 volts. If the fan is getting the proper voltage and is not running, replace the fan. If the fan is not getting voltage and the compressor is running, you more than likely have a problem with the defrost timer. Try turning the blade on the fan to see if they move freely. I have seen where a fan has developed rust and that prevented the motor from turning. It may start up if your get it a turn so watch your fingers. If it has rust and that's why it stopped, you should replace it anyway. It will just happen again. But at least your machine will work for the time being.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Hi,there

Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger ( small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line ) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. A misaligned control settings, make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze - store them in a different spot. Doors not closing properly making the fridge run too long is something else to check for.

Hope this help out....

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101