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Remove any screws that secure the fan or fan housing so that you can
access the fan's wiring. Typically two screws secure the mounting
bracket in place (labeled "A" below). It may be easier to remove the
entire rear panel if the mounting brackets screws are inaccessible.
Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should be replaced.
Test the fan for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it should be replaced
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If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check this link for tips to work.
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