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Hobart AM14-253 Free-standing Dishwasher - Page 6 Questions & Answers
Verifying breaker rating of AM-14
Commercial dishwashers don't take it for granted that the hot water is hot enough to sanitize. And, they know restaurants need to turn dishes.
So there is enough heat to make sure warm water heats up quickly to sanitizing temperatures.
Hobart AM-14
is this a Hobart chemical system or other? call your chemacle people who service you. also make sure you are even rinsing. at end of rinse watch light on door raise door and take sample off of arm where water should still be draining out from rinsing
Hobart AM-14 dishwasher
it has a time out function once float is up is your water pressure correct. if to low it will first few cycles be low but after the will get to correct level and that is to the top of grey plastic drain pipe it cannot or should not be higher then the Gray drain pipe top, it overflows out that any extra rinse goes down it. check the o-ring on bottom of that grey pipe you could be leaking out the drain in between loads you come back and half the water is gone.
Inital fill will not stop
Look for white or yelloed plastic float hanging from probe doown under basket if its got any water in it . replace it ti should float when water gets up to it. if not it keeps filling and extra goes down the drain
Am14 initial fill
lift **** basket out and lift out samle stailees plate drain and look for stailess probe coming out of side of tank half way down there should be a white pprobably yellowed plastic ball it is a float they get old and fill fith water and don't flote telling maching I have no water keep the water coming. the float is sometimes even missing fell off andf thrown out. 10 bucks and a clip your off and running. call hobart its 110.00 and your off and running.
Hot water blasting out of relief at top right of hot water input
sounds like you have a booster heater. Hatco maybe or one built on the machine next to the pump motor.? the valves on top the chrome one is a vacuum breaker. easy to put 15.00 kit in. the electric one just fills and rinse gauge just tell pressure . Did a valve on the booster heater leak or its tank maybe. The AM14 is very simple crect temp and presure water going in and your in business if the machine is ok. Boosters have a saftey valve that will go pad and they let water out. just like all home water heaters do. they screw into the tank. yours should have a line to the drain. so if it does leak it goes down the drain not on the floor. all the things you describe on the upper right of your sishwasher are just the nopremal fill and rinse. both the crome thing and the electric have kits that can be put in. I would call hobart and say sendf me a itamized estment of repair so you know what your paying for. with part discritions and numbers and prices. Or call me LOL kidding
Mixer has just stopped
The front wire gage to the gaurd does have a white plastic encapsulated magnet to operarte a switch behind the gaurd on the neck no magent no worky
Am14 will not stop filling on initial fill
Check the underneath the drain stem (lift up food catching screens inside the machine - drain stem will look like a long hard plastic tube) you may nee a flashligh when you tak out the tube to see the actual drain hole/ swirl your finger around the hole to make sure there are no toothpicks etc... also check on that plastic drain stem that there is a black rubber o-ring at the end of it - and is still tight.
also inside the machine there will be some plastic bubbles- (these are your float switches, which rise and shut off the fill when the water gets high enough. make sure they move either up or down (not both)
Write back if it still continues to fill
No water going in to dishwasher when rinsing
the pump shouldn't turn on when the rinse cycle is on - it uses only fresh water straight from the water line - after the wash cycle is over - wait 5 seconds, then open the doors and see if there is any rinse coming out of the rinse arms.
If only a little is coming out - check the rinse arm spray jets to see if there is debris caught in them -
if no water is coming out - it could be a faulty rinse solenoid
D-lime
they make a deliming solid and a liquid (liquid Chisel) and the solid one is in a little plastic tub you place it on a rack and it disolves inside the machine I belive you can buy them from ECOLAB hope this helps
PS: if using the liquid wear gloves and goggles it is caustic
Wiring diagram
The diagram is inside the control box - on the plastic protector.
If not, let me know more specifically what you have for wires, (should be four small gauge, and three large gauge wires), and I'll help you out.
Dishwashers
What you are likely seeing is the solids from household soap products. Household soap has too many "fillers", and doesn't dissolve fast enough for a 4 minute cycle.
If you look into the bottom of your wash tank, I expect you'll see large tan deposits. Invest in a commercial liquid soap system.
Leaking at bolts at drain
you must change the gasket between bottom flange and machines underside and apply Hobart mastic to each bolts, not expensive but may require some plumbing dismanteling
Hobart am-14
facing front of machine top right near pressure guage there is an electric solenoide valve , you must change the kit inside it is eighter diaphram type or piston type, you must shut off the water inlet before servicing, then undu the 4 bolts on the top of the valve to see if it is diaphram or piston
Alain
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Heating element replacement
A couple of things to check.look inside the unit,remove the screens and on the right side you should see a float make sure there are no holes in it or water.next look in the box where the heating element is,you should see a round black disk that is above the element (this is the high limit).there is a little button in the middle press it in and see if you hear a click.The way the heat cycle works on this unit is when you first turn the unit on it fills, the water level brings the float up and hits that little metal probe which is a switch, the power goes through that then through the high limit, the power then continues to energize the contactor which then pulls in sending the voltage to the heater.
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