You should unplug the freezer until someone can check the start relay and run capacitor. Kenmore has a model number like this example=> 321.2468102 can you get me that model number so I can look up the parts I am describing? Someone with an OHM meter need to do this test on the compressor prior to replacing these parts. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
You need a multi-meter to do this. The temp.control is just a switch that closes on temperature rise and opens on temperaure fall (or when it reaches the desired temperature). Using a meter set on ohms coneect to the 2 prong ends of the temp. control. Set the temp. control on off. You should not have any ohms because hte temp. control is open (no continunity) now set the temp control to 2 or 3 and it should close (the meter will read ohms or continunity)
if it does then the t'stat works. The only other exception is the temp. control will sometimes (this is rare) not properly sense temp. for example, it fails to sense zero degrees and it will either stay on too long to shut off too soon. I only seen this happen like twice in 20 years. but more or less this is how you do it!!!
hope this was helpful
I am assuming that you have it in a place where it gets hot in the summer.
If the freezer has a fan either in the back or at the bottom, make sure the fan runs, and the coils are clean. If the freezer has the condensor against the back wall you could help it by adding a small fan so as to blow away the hot air.
Hi,
Empty it out....pull the plug... get out the hair dryer....when all of the ice is thawed and the water soaked up then you plug it back in and restock the food...
You need to install or change the battery for the power out freezer alarm. Mine was just doing the same thing. I looked on the web for the answer and couldn't find it. Opened the door to look for the model number and there was the diagram for the light flashing codes. Mine's battery compartment is in the grill on the bottom (right below the door) on the left side. Takes a 9v battery. I had a power outage recently and it must have killed the battery after beeping for several hours.
Hi,
Usually this happen because of below things :
- You have low refrigerant pressure ( you have to top up the refrigerant)
- Wrong set the thermostat ( just set it in the middle or a bit colder)
Regards, Jay
The cooler the better, most freezers use the side walls of the unit to disipate heat generated. The unit will use less energy in a cooler enviroment. The trade off is added heat to an area that is air conditioned. Overall you will be better off inside if it is hot outside.
freezers should be -18/20C to keep beef for 12 months,use a freezer guage in centre of freezer,that way you wont get ice bricks instead of ice cream.....test after 24 hours of setting....
you will have to play with the adjustment until you get into its range. the load has alot to do with the box temp. I suggest getting a thermometer and try setting the temp to @20-25 degrees and see if that helps
when its running how hot are the sides the starting amps are too high and 1.5 running amps ain't bad now the the cut in cut out are too high if you look on the dial that the mid point settings that's where you should have it not on 1 1 is hot set it on the straight line that's where you should do all your testing colder settings go up not down you could be overheating the compressor by making it come on too quick the freezer should be about -10 or so do you see any gaps in the gasket
The thermostat should be a close circuit when requesting cold temps. or when asking the compressor to come on. The exterior surface on some freezers warm when asking for cold inside. Yours has a condenser coil on the back and that should warm when cooling. If compressor is runningit should be wrm if no freon has leaked from freezer somewhere.
The defrost timer should rotate clockwise during the day and give approx. 3 defrost daily or about every 8 hours. Until the thermostat is resolved and asks for a closed circuit the compressor will not come on. Unplug freezer from outlet,remove thermostat wires, then turn the thermostat to its coldest setting and check again. If no closed circuit the thermostat will need replaced first. Hope this has helped you, Sea Breeze
sounds like dust from the air it shouldnt damnage freezor but make shure to clean the condensor every few months to make the freezor last longer its in the back behind the back cover
