20 Most Recent Kenmore 12.8 cu. ft. / 362 liter Chest Freezer 13312 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

almost instantly you will feel the walls inside begin to get cold if not the unit is damaged and will need to be repaired

The reed valve in the compressor has failed, or the dryer unit is bloked. if you can access the rear of the freezer, with power off, tap the compressor gently with a solid object (hammer), then start the unit, also, if you see the copper tubes near the compressor, you will notice one of the tubes feeds into a copper barrel object about 3-4 inches long, it will have a fine copper tube comming out at the other end about 3mm thick, with the unit on, tap this object with the back of a bread and butter knife a few times with about the same force as to open a nut ( A good tap). Should do the trick if the unit is repairable.

Hope that helps, dont forget to vote and get back to me for further solutions if this fails..Russ

Sorry to read about your problem. you can have many different problems.

a wiring diagram will not help you in this case. all 3 items below at at the compressor.
odds are you will have to have the compressor replaced.

1. Failing compressor
2. Defective start cap
3. Defective overload protector


I suggest you call a service company.

I have tried to help you. Please help me, by Vote/Rate my response. Thanks.

If you live in the Denver area, I can help you.

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It has run out of refrigerant and need to top up.

The inside temperature should be -18 deg if it is -33 I would suspect it is running constantly, this indicates a faulty thermostat

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just 2 wires yes just a light

That is what as known as a "wall' condenser.

shortage of refrigerator gas.

It sounds like you have a defrost problem.

All the cooling for both sections takes place in the freezer behind the back wall. A fan back there distributes the cold air throughout the freezer and fresh food section. Every 8 - 10 hours a heater comes on for about 20 minutes to eliminate the frost from the evaporator coils back there. If this defrost cycle fails the frost will build up to a point of no air flow so the fresh food side and most of the freezer start to warm up.

The best way to take care of this is to turn it off and unload the freezer, take the shelves out and the screws holding the back panel inside the freezer out. Remove the back panel from the freezer. Use hot water and a hair dryer to unthaw the ice and frost, you will need lots of towels as the melting will bring lots of water on to the floor. Once the frost is gone you will need to install this part WR51X443. The picture below shows it. The kit contains new heaters and thermostat.

Good day,
Unlikely you would be able to repair if the inner liner is coming apart.
A local appliance parts house may be able to supply universal gasket to fit to the machine but again, if the inner liner is bad it could prove to be fruitless.

Oddly enough, if you visit supermarkets you will see chest type freezers with no top at all.
Seems like a terrible loss, but it's not.
Cold air falls, hot air rises. When the freezer generates cold air it doesn't spill out the top. It settles into the bottom of the freezer, and stays there. Likewise, warm air rises and has no interest in going into the freezer cavity.
Bottom line. Very little loss.
If appearance doesn't matter, and you can get it close, you should be able to continue to use it.
Your choice, but I thought you would like to know the physics involved here and how it does or doesn't affect you.

If the unit is still working, and the power light is flickering, don't worry about it. I've seen this very often where the small, rectangular power light flickers and there is absolutely nothing wrong with the unit. It's just the light going bad. It will probably, eventually go out all together. Again, as long as it's working and keeping temp. don't worry.

Try turning everything off including the temp settings, then plug it in and reset your temps. Good luck. If no go, It may need a start capactor.

Make sure the condenser coil is clean and the fan works (if not replace it) If those are ok probably the compresor relay is bad (no more than $30) and after you replaced the relay ,if still the compresor won't start the problem is the compressor itself.

Sounds like you have a bad compressor or it has lost the gas charge.

could be freon to plugged freon lines probably not worth the cost of a service call and if it's that old it uses r-12 freon very expensive .Tom