Top 20 Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright Freezer 23424 Questions & Answers

It is in a defrost cycle if you wait for around 30 min. it should come back on

You have a Kenmore upright, which you set on ZERO? WHY? Every time you open the door all of the cold air falls out and it has to start over in the cool down cycle, the fan stops to NOT push all of the COLD out while the door is open - you should consult a professional. Not for the freezer, for your ability to understand.

Where can I find the battery door at on the freezer

I have one out in the yard that is doing the very same thing. Works good but the door display is out. I looked underneath and all of the wires seem to be connected. The main control board is on the bottom as well. The battery is also new. You must have a broken wire between that control and the main board below. I imagine it has something to do the the connector that goes through the door. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Freon can no longer be purchased by the general public. You will have to call a repair person.

hey.. look for a 9 volt battery. its for the memory and power failures .. so it needs to be replaced ..

It sounds like the common line (white wire) may be broken or disconnected in the line going to the recepticle. When this happens the missing common line is somewhat created down the line through another device or appliance plugged into the same line. It would take too much typing time to explain how this happens but you should call in an electrician to test the circuit for you if you don't have the experience to do it yourself. If you plug in another device like a heater etc (like Jay suggested) and it barely runs, that is a good indicator of a bad common line. Don't continue to try using this line as you will burn out the compressor.

You have a plugged defrost drain line.Lokk on the very bottom and way way back to see if yu can see the drain. Also check underneath you lmay be able to get to it from there or else in back of freezer.Hope this helped.

If you are referring to the black compressor at the bottom rear of the freezer then this is caused by its over-stressing - running continuously without proper ventilation.
This in turn can be caused by just 2 faults:
1 - either the thermostat and/or the control board are defective and keep the compressor running constantly .
2 - the coolant fluid (R410a in your case) has leaked out and the compressor tries to compensate by running faster what is still left in the circuit.
To find out which just measure the temperature inside: if it's lower than the set one it's the first cause and the thermostat and the control board will have to be tested and replaced, if it's higher it's the second cause and you will have to call a certified repairman that will have to locate the origin of the leak, solder it shut and recharge the circuit.

You have a defrost drain that is plugged.You need to locate it and clean it out. Hope this helps.

Does the unit have a digital control on the door? If so try unplugging the freezer for about ten seconds to reset the control. If they still flash replace the digital control. If you do not have the digital display, and its just an orange light at the bottom, then no worries they sometime flicker

It could be that your defrost system is faulty. If the freezer does not defrost now and then it will fill up the cooling fins with ice and get warm. The leaking could also be an indication of two much ice. Did you unplug it when it stopped working and then plug it back in?

When you say condensor you probably mean compressor. If the big metal motor at the back is making that noise that is your compressor. The compressor is either bad or the relay for the compressor is bad. I recommand replacing the relay first since it is your cheapest solution and then if that doesn't solve it then you can decide if you want to replace the compressor or not as this is not something you can do yourself and can be quite costly to do if you have a technician do it. Hope this helps.

James Memije
Head Technician
Accufix Appliance Service Centre

use a strong solution of clorine bleach(in a spray bottle) to get into every nook and cranny/drainholes/drip trays/door seals and wipe dry(clorine is a gas and will dissipate within an hour or so)then wipe over interior with a damp cloth and plenty of bicarb,leave to dry and leave any bicarb residual inside fridge as this will absorb any smells left.leave door open for about a day in a warm (ish) room, this is the only way of deoderising......

it is the fast freeze button,use it when filling up freezer when less than 1/2 full.red is a high temp warning.orange is fast freeze on/working.

youve guessed it its like you and me its getting ready to retire...
nearly time for a new unit.and you will be suprised to learn the new ones wont last as long as yours,but it will be cheaper to run.

Don't panic about the hot sides of the freezer. It is quite common on all the freezer (make/model).

After defrosting, your removing the full temerature out of the system. It will take atleast 30 ~ 60 mins to come back to set temperature. This again depends on the load inside.

dear sir,
i think your freezer,s door there is one rubber between door and body it has been turn and damaged its need to replace. after change this rubber your who is sealing your freezer,s door your ice problem will be solve.

hope answer the question

thank you

please vote!

My freezer was purchased in February, 2004. It is a self defrosting freezer but ice has started forming along the bottom shelf and back wall. Also, after cleaning the freezer the other day it has stopped clycing. The freezer will stop running only if I turn it down to the #1 setting and then it will not come back on. If I turn it up to a higher setting the compressor will not stop running. It ran for over 24 hours and would not cycle unless I turned it off or set it at the #1 setting. When I unplugged it and pulled it away from the wall, there was a green water spot the size of a dinner plate underneath the freezer. Help!! Very Unhappy this freezer is only 6 years old. S in Phila.

Good day,
It could be either the main heater, as you said or the defrost thermostat which is clipped to the top of the cooling coil.
You will need an ohm meter for testing.
Set the meter at RX1 remove the wires that connect the heater to the machine. With the ohm meter, use one end of the probe on one of the 2 heater leads. The other probe can be touched to the cooling coil, since it is grounded. You should read infinity. If you get any reading on the meter,replace the heater. It is necessary to perform the test on both heater leads, one at a time.

Do the same thing with the defrost thermostat. However, the thermostat can not be allowed to warm up since it will open it's circuit when it reaches somewhere around 50 degrees, and not reset until it goes back to 20 degrees.