20 Most Recent Polar Cadence Sensor W.I.N.D Questions & Answers

No reactions to any buttons:

Reset the training computer by pressing all the buttons simultaneously for two seconds until the display fills with digits. Press any button and set the time and date in Basic Settings after the reset. All other settings are saved. Skip the rest of the settings by pressing and holding STOP.

Polar Cadence Sensor W.I.N.D.

To activate the cadence sensor in your training computer, select Settings > Features > Shoes/bikes > Bike
1/2/3 > On > Cadence > On.
Teach new sensor? is displayed.
• If your sensor is already taught, select No.
• To teach a new sensor, make sure that there are no other cadence sensors nearby (40 m/131 ft) and then select Yes.
After selecting Yes, Start test drive is displayed. Rotate the crank a few times to activate the sensor.
The flashing red light indicates that the sensor is activated. Completed is displayed after the
teaching has been finished. The training computer is now ready to receive cadence data.
To return to time mode, press and hold the STOP button.

Good Luck,

Polar Cadence... | Answered on May 23, 2009

The CS100 is designed to only work off the front wheel. if you are using a trainer where the rear wheel is spinning and the front wheel is stationary you will get no reliable reading. if this was the case on the old bike, you got lucky, the system is not designed to read that way. Too far a distance between sensor and computer.

If you are moving the front wheel, as on rollers, and you are not getting a signal than either the sensor and the magnet are not reading each other (too far away from each other, as an example) or the sensor has a dead battery, or you have the bike sensor turned off in your settings.

Polar Cycling | Answered on Jan 08, 2011

what i think the problem is. when a battery (if battery operated) loses its life it wont hold charge i would get a new battery and replace it

Polar Cycling | Answered on Aug 13, 2009

Toll-Free / 800-451-KENT (5368)

Cycling | Answered on Oct 28, 2019

you can change the stem with other one, with another angle and reach.

Cycling | Answered on Oct 18, 2019

This may help you:

Cycling | Answered on Oct 15, 2019

If you have a local cycle shop I suggest you give them a chance because with the state of online sales, if you don't use local businesses they will be lost.

Failing that both ebay and Amazon offer a great many cycle parts...

Cycling | Answered on Oct 14, 2019

I have taken bikes to Thrift Shops (Value Village, etc.), and to recycling depots when they have provisions to donate them to various charities. In my area, migrant farm workers often get them. I think this info depends on your geographic area.

Cycling | Answered on Oct 07, 2019

If it's a quill stem, you have to loosen the bolt at the top of the stem, and then tap it (the bolt) with a hammer to release it. There will be a line on the stem portion that goes into the head tube of the bike that tells you how high the stem can safely go. You will likely get to this maximum setting before the cables are stressed. Tightening the stem back in the head tube is just aligning it and then using the wrench again. There are Park Tools videos (and others) on Youtube that show this procedure, and cable replacement, if you need it.

Cycling | Answered on Oct 07, 2019

Follow this link: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/dating.html You will need to know the serial number of the bike, and this is also explained on this website.

Cycling | Answered on Oct 07, 2019

Ancheer support page: SUPPORT

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Cycling | Answered on Oct 03, 2019

Go to the following link and scroll down to the "Threadless Stems" section to see your options:

Cycling | Answered on Sep 26, 2019

First, some terminology - the small cogs in the back are the higher gears. They will take you farther per pedal revolution, but not necessarily faster, as it's hard to pedal the high gears as fast.

As far as your problem there are multiple causes. The most common is friction in the shift cable. The rear derailleur shifts to the small cogs with spring pressure when you move the shift lever. It won't move well if the cable is binding. The second commone cause is the derailleur being bent inward from the bike falling on the right side. That will also cause the derailleur to move too far when shifting to the large cog in the rear - a very expensive problem if it goes into the spokes. The least common problem is misadjustment. ALL of the fixes must be done properly. The best option if available is to get help at a bike co-op or from a knowledgable friend. Otherwise take it to a shop for diagnosis and repair.

Cycling | Answered on Sep 18, 2019

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