20 Most Recent Huffy Alpine 24 Youth All-Terrain Bicycle Questions & Answers

I am going to post a video on how to determine the size of pedal you will need. Identifiying the Proper Size Pedal for Your Bike

there is usually a very small set screw (2-3mm Allen both) that holds the shifter in position on the handle bar. This probably needs to be tightened a little.

The chain has come off. Refit it onto the cogs then you will have drive back.

Vote for me if this helps, thanks.

You have to look if when you act on the shifting level it get hard to move or it is free, if free, probably the cable is broken.
Also check if the cable is not too loose, try to follow the cable track and move the level and see if the cable move with that, in that way probably can find where the cable is stuck or broken/loose.

Depending on how it got bent and how much worse you've made it, the rim may be toast. Why don't you take it down to a real Bike Shop and let them have a look at it.

It's an art that involves some special tools. Check this out here...
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=81

If the cable is rusty or otherwise binding it won't let the derailleur fall toward the smaller sprockets when the control is moved. Likewise, it may not even let you move the control in the direction that pulls the cable (bigger rings).

If you don't know much about the process I suggest you read this:

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

and take the bike to a Local Bike Shop for a look-see and maybe a tune-up.

Sometimes chains have stiff spots that cause them to skip. You can try checking the chain for stiff spots or just spray some lube on it and see if it loosens up. If you turn the bike upside down or put it such that you can let the back wheel spin freely, you can slowly turn the pedal and see if you can see the spot on the chain where it slips. If you find it, you can spray lube on the spot and work it back and forth until it's loose. Good luck and hope this works!

This isn't something a novice wants to attempt. You would need a number of special tools (cone wrenches, cassette-removal tool) and the mechanical knowledge to make it work.

Either get a new rear wheel with a QR-axle or have a Bike Shop replace the solid axle with a QR-compatible one, which would be almost as expensive.

Hi,

There are two techniques:
The first involves the adjusting barrels and lock nuts on the brake levers, but i prefer to loosen the cable in the brake arm and pull it tighter and reclamp it there.

Hope this helps, feel free to email for further help,
matt
[email protected]

take it down to your local bike shop and lets them see if it alright.

This is likely because either a) the cable leading from the shifter to the part you are pulling is seized or b) the shifter itself is seized or c) both are seized. You would have to undo the cable from the rear deraileur, pull the inside cable out from the casing from top to bottom. Check it and see if it is rusted or full of crud. Give it a cleaning and spray some light lube down the outer (black) cables, then reinsert the cable. While the cable is undone, it wouldn't hurt to see if you can twist the grip shifters. If they are still tight, then get some lube in the grip shift. Also make sure the rubber grips are not too tight against the shifter. Hope that helps...

if u buy a new grip shifter it comes with a diagram a bicycle shop might help

Look for the manufacturers name and model number on the gripshift and check at www.parktool.com. Look under derailleurs for repair tips which will give you an idea how they work. A twelve speed has six gears on the rear sprocket and two on the crank giving you a combination of twelve speeds. sheldonbrown.com is another good site with good articles and pictures.

First, try to isolate the trouble like you have... obviously the derailieur is moviong freely. Next, I would disconnect the shifter cable from the derailieur (make sure to mark previous position of cable) Next, shift the left hand grip to see if the grip moves freely, you've already replaced the cable, soooooo, disassemble the grip and grease or replace the grip shift unit...hope this helps

You may want to take your bike down to a local shop and have them put a chain guage on the chain to see if the chain is stretched... This should be a free service...
If the chain is stretched, it will tend to want to jump when under pressure... if this is the case, the chain should be replaced before further damage to the gears occurs...

Starting with someone holding the bike with the front of the bike to your right proceed as follows. Shift the rear derailleur down so that it lines up with the smallest cog on the rear. Shift the front derailleur to the smallest cog on the front. This will give you the least resistance to thread the chain. Starting at the rear lay the chain over the rear cog teeth and holding the arm of the derailleur down so that the idler gears are one above the other thread the left end of the chain to the right side of the top idler gear and down through the cage. proceed with the end of the chain to the left side the the bottom idler gear and down . The left end of the chain you just threaded will now meet the right end of the chain which you are about to thread. Don't let the left end slip back the way you came. Take the right end of the chain and thread it through the cage of the front derailleur and over the smallest gear on the front proceeding to your right. It should be sitting in the teeth.Pull the right end of the chain down and arouind to meet the left end of the chain. Since you are asking how to thread the chain I am assuming that it is apart in one long length and not in a continuous loop. Use a twist tie to hold the two ends of the chain together for now. Shift the front derailleur to the largest outside gear taking care to lift the chain off the teeth of the small gear and place them on the large gear as you are shifting. Shift the rear derailleur to the largest inside gear(cog) on the back wheel taking care to move the chain again as you shift. The chain should be in a continuous loop with no twists in it that goes as I described through both derailleur cages and over the largest gear on the back and the largest gear on the front. Now the tricky part. You may need someone to help. You have to pull the chain with your left hand to move the rear derailleur cage all the way forwardand with the twist tie removed bring the right end of the chain all the way back to the rear along the left end of the chain to measure how long it would be joined up in that position. Note where the chain would meet if tight. You will have excess chain on one end. From where the ends meet give yourself two links on the excess end of the chain and where the ends will join now is the correct length. You will need a chain (break) tool to force the pin out on the excess end of the chain to remove the excess length.You have two choices for joing the chain. You can buy a pin that you can join the two ends with and when it is forced through to the mark on it with the tool you then snap the end off with a pair of pliers or you can buy a joiner link that comes in two halves that fit through the holes on opposite sides of the chain and then snap together. The forward action of pedalling will make the final snap to hold the link on. If you decide on the latter method you will notice that you will have to remove another pin from the length to get the side plates off the chain and expose both holes. This is a complicated explanation and if you haven't done this before and you don't have a chain tool it is far easier to get a bicycle shop to install a new chain as the actual chain has to be a direct match in manufacturing to properly fit your bike. If you decide to do this yourself, take the old chain in and get a new one. Make sure it hasn't been shortened as the old chain has probably been stretched and the proper method of measuring the new one is by using the bike itself not just laying the new one and the old one side by side. Good Luckand hope this helps.

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