Top 20 Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Check to see if the evaporator behind the back metal cover on the freezer side is all frosted up, if it is, then it will probably be the defrost heater which is bad and letting it clog with frost causing low or no airflow. The heater is not expensive and can be ordered online on ebay. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

maybe this site will help you. Has me in the past. Good luck! https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Freezer/98-6--/Kenmore-Freezer-runs-all-the-time

this link should help you sort this out. Drain freezes in moffat fridge Google Search

What is the full part number for this? Sears has about 9 letters in their part numbers.

During very humid conditions you will get this problem many times due to door on refrigerator being opened much more than normal and maybe gaskets are not as pliable as they once were. Just be happy you have this problem instead of defrost circuit not working at all as that is a very costly alternative. Just empty and check weekly.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

Check out this site. It has 2 manuals in pdf format. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/user-manuals/manual-downloads/Model-79572059110/0583/0161000?modelNumber=79572059110&diagramPageId=&documentId=

I have the same problem

Check all wiring behind fascia and freezer door hinge

Most likely compressor weak or gas leak, may be cooling pipes are choked

Unplug the refer and leave unplugged for a full FIVE minutes. This will reboot the CPU and fixes about 98% of all problems with the .the Kenmore Elites. If you can't pull the refer out for some reason, try switching off the circuit breaker instead.

well you've probably gotten something jammed in there and now you will need to remove everything from the refrigerator. tip on sides to see if the jammed item will shift of of jam.

Check the compressor start device. The fans will be running and the compressor fan will be running but the compressor is problaly not running. If it is then it could be the compressor itself that is not oumping.

Hi Tim. Thermostat problem. Gas problem. Compressor problem. very rare Electrical problem. regards, nuwan.

The error refers to the freezer fan (FF). I found this link to a couple of potential solutions: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130624100107AAwS8N4

you either have a defrost problem starting or a bad evaporator fan motor or a problem with the main control board.kenmore doesn't make any products,other companies make the product and kenmore puts it's name on it,like if it starts with 106. it's whirlpool yours is 795 and that's l.g.made.from some of the sites i looked up i guess there are some serious issues with this machine like the lights staying on and causing fires and main computer board problems that you could have,next time send the full model number,let me ask you when you open the freezer door and you hear the evaporator fan running does it sound louder than normal,if not check the back inside wall of the freezer,look for frost or like snow buildup on the back wall,if so you have a defrost problem,but that error code is to do with the evaporator fan motor or freezer fan ff,i think you have a bad computer board,if you had a defrost problem the coil would ice up and you'd notice the fridge getting warm first because the evap fan can't blow the cold air from the freezer up to the fridge section and you say things are cold so the fan is running but if the computer board is bad it doesn't allow the fan to run as long as it should and it will get worse as time goes by,i would call the 800 number on the machine,tell them your problem and they might fix it for free or send you a new board for free like i say i think there's a recall on this machine and if there isn't all they can say is no we can't help you,i don't do much work on l.g. fridges but the few i've worked on it has been the mother board or main computer board same thing,also there's a tech sheet on the machine,check the front kickplate under the doors and on the tech sheet it will tell you some things to check,on the mother board there's a test button,i'll look into it for you but you press it and i think the first time it starts the compressor and you can press it three times but one of the checks is for the fan i think but i'll see if i can find it. hope this helps,one more thing can you let me know if you get this email,i've helped out other people and haven't heard back from them,just want to know if there's a problem with this site because this happened before.

We had a problem with a loud noise when the motor turned on. Didn't know what it was but after a week or two, the noise went away and the Refrigerator was no longer cold (even though the freezer was fine). At this point, instead of temperatures showing inside the refrigerator read out, there was an error code: ER FF. The circulator motor was no longer working. This I read was due to an ice build up which binded the motor. We shut off the unit for 24 hours to defrost it and it worked fine after that. Do this before calling a repair man for service.

Before you replace your compressor, make sure the condenser coils are clean. I thought our compressor was going out, but it turned out to be the coils needed cleaning.

You need to have the defrost cycle checked.( heater, limit stat, timer) If the frig can't defrost air can't move across your coils to cool properly. To temporarily get by until you can get a repairman, use a blow dryer to melt the ice build up. Once melted it will work normally for about 2 days till it freezes up again.