20 Most Recent Kenmore 62702 Microwave Oven - Page 6 Questions & Answers

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

hmmmm, i wonder if you have a gear or something similiar to this going out. (turn tables)

If not, something tells me you have a component that is arching inside of your micrwave. I would call someone to double check to make sure it is ok.

You will be surprised at how many people wait until it is too late to service their units, when it goes out, it is gone.

good luck

Check this site under troubleshooting to find more info on how to test those parts.

Hi , Open the cover unsscrew it , be sure to unplug power ,if you have continuety tester , test the fuse if open replace it , is also availble in appliance parts center near you.

Hi , open the cover with philips screw driver , b sure unplug it first , If you have continuety tester check the fuse if open replace it , are available in electronics center brings that sample and insert it.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I searched by that model and there was no match. Then I found model 363.62709300.

If that looks like yours, then color may be the only difference.

They show the handle as (GE) part # WB15X10022 for $29.99.

You can get it a little cheaper here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

We see this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Get yourself a cork from a bottle of wine (wait to drink the wine until after you've removed the bulb!). Now, with the power plug REMOVED from the wall socket, gently but firmly press the cork into the broken bulb. You should now be able to screw the broken bulb out of the socket. If there's not any bulb glass or shards or anything else for the cork to grip, you may need to insert a small pair of pliers into the socket, and with reverse pressure (i.e. pulling the handle apart as opposed to squeezing together) you may be able to remove the bulb. And if that doesn't work, well, keep trying. You just need to be creative. Try using needle nose pliers and grabbing the edge of the bulb socket and gently work to loosen (remember lefty loosy, righty tighty) turning counterclockwise to remove.

it should easy if you follow the wireing on the faulty panel,take your time.

An F-3 is a bad temp sensor and needs to be replaced

The 5-digit number above is not a complete model number.

If you can post the full model number I can probably give you a link to the explode view, or you can find it here: http://www3.sears.com (the 3 is correct)

Manufacturers used to include access panels in the rear or side so you could easily change the bulb. That exposed the customer to 110V connectors, and that posed a real liability threat, so they stopped using them.

You now must generally remove the outer cover to replace the bulb.

In many over-the-range models, that can mean having to take the oven down from the wall! For safety's sake, that should be a two-person job and it's really helpful if you have your original installation instructions to do this.

Many models use one halogen lamp to illuminate the cooktop and another to illuminate the cavity. You must not touch them with your bare skin as the oils will shorten the bulb life.

Most models allow you to turn the turntable off and on via the control panel. Check that setting in the display first.

If that's not it, then the motor had probably failed.

You can find handy exploded view part diagrams and order parts at http://www3.sears.com (the 3 is correct).

Something looks wrong with the posted model number. Is that right??

Sounds like the keypad is worn out and if you could post your full model we can give you more targeted help.

We repair these units nationwide and the cost should be $39.95 plus the keypad's part cost. Once we get your model number we can be more specific.

We'll also be happy to give you specific details so you or a friend can safely disassemble and send it in for service.

You should be able to find helpful exploded view diagrams if you enter your full modle number (more that 5 digits) here: http://www3.sears.com (the 3 is correct)

Manufacturers will note that they warn in their owner manuals to never leave a microwave running unattended, so they won't help you any further, I'm sure.

Mmost modern microwaves have a flame sensor inside that will shut the microwave down completely in case flames get too high.

Then the cooling fan and power will shut off, and the fire will almost certainly be smothered pretty quickly due to a lack of air inside the oven.

Also, the inside is metal, thus the only fuel for the fire would have been the potato, which would not have lasted long.

So as scary and disturbing as this event was, I would say the real danger of a fire outside of the oven was miniscule.

The fire probably occured due to a dry or irregular spot in the skin of the potato. Once it's dry, it will of course burn much easier.

So now to the smell...

You should do a Google search on "odor microwave" or "microwave smell" where you can find tips on boiling water & baking soda, then vinegar and water in the microwave to neutralize the smell.

If your microwave does not work, then it may have blown the flame sensor (thermal fuse) and that would have to be replaced.

Please let us know if we can help further.

Check if there's a fuse on the front panel.i'f had it on other makes.replace fuse and it should be ok.

check high voltage section diodes and capacitor or high voltage circuit,