20 Most Recent Kenmore 63252 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

try to read your users manual on set the functions ok.

Planned obsolescence.

Is this an over-the-range (OTR) microwave oven or a counter-top model? Assuming it is an OTR model, your can get to the fuse by first unplugging the microwave, then removing 2 to 4 screws over the grille vent. Remove the grille vent. Depending on the model, you either slide it to the left a little bit (1/4 inch) then pull it out, OR tilt out the top of it followed by the bottom. Now you should see 1 screw that hold the top of the control console in place. Remove it, then lift up on the control console to get past the tabs, and tilt out the top. Now, depending on the model, you may see the fuse behind the control console, or if it's not there, then remove the 1 or 2 screws that hold the metal grill vent that's located above the control console. Remove that metal grill, and your should see the fuse behind it. Sometimes that fuse blows for no good reason, other times it blows because you have a shorted high-voltage capacitor, or you may have a sticking "monitor" door switch. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Usually those buttons are on a separate small board. Sometimes that board breaks loose from it's support tabs; other times the buttons just go bad with age and use, and you need to replace that button board. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

cause you aint got the right beats

check your door switches.

There should be a technical sheet hidden behind the grille or behind the controller. It will show you how to connect it. The only wire that you can connect incorrectly is the one in the lower center of the board that connects to the black relay next to the small power transformer. Try rotating the connector 90 degrees if the oven is not coming on. Look at my profile picture for more help.

Typical warranty is 1 year parts and labor and 3 to 5 years on the magnetron tube only. BTW, what's wrong with this unit ??

sears repaire them or has the parts

check the reactor fuse

The most likely cause is a defective door switch, there are usually a few to protect critical area's of the microwave oven, if you have a digital meter I can walk you through the testing stage.

I would like to make a warning ,do not try to repair microwaves , they are lethal weapons , I know someone who ran one with the cover removed and cooked his kidneys , if it is faulty dispose and get new, if aluminium foil was put inside it has heated up and as you say damaged paint ,the seal could also be damaged and lethal , dispose and buy another .

yes your diode can keep it from heating but it usually makes a loud growling if diode is bad. there is also another thermal disc on the other side of the oven that could be open. usually can see it in a hole in the plastic with 2 wires. if there is continuity on both this and the mag thermal, you may have a bad magnetron